that dreaded oiled coil issue again.

[tkswan]

Hey Rod,

I am having the dreaded misfire issue again. I changed the coil on #8 about 6 months ago and now another one seems to be failing. It might be the same one becasue there was oil in that well and I didnt know of the existing issue with the gaskets at that time. Anyway, she must be mad at me becsause instead of throwing a misfire code, she insists on yaking me around the cabin. I will have to probe her with a more intense scanner to find the bug. But, this time while im in there I want to replace the valve cover gasket as well as the coil. Is there a technical manual out there (hopefully with images)that shows the step by step procedure? I want to study it thouroughly before I begin surgery. I am a pretty good mechanic but I hate suprises and I have read that changing the valve cover gaskets can test your patience. Especially knowing that the engine is too big for the car. There is very little and no room to do any maintenance thats not on the top of the engine.

Thanks in advance.

[shorod]

The files are on their way to your inbox.

I deleted your e-mail address from the above post to limit the amount of spam you will get.

FYI for future reference, please indicate the model year and engine of your LS when posting for help. I assume that since you replaced coil #8 previously, you have the V-8, but it's better to not have to assume.

-Rod

[tkswan]

oops, thank you much. it [is] the 02 LS V8. im almost ready to remove the left side valve cover. a few obsticals: Removing the EGR bracket is a challenge. The only way to get to it is to remove the trim at he bottom of the windshield, which means removing the windshield wipers. Valve cover bolts #4, #6, and #8 present a space challenge if you have big hands. Also you will need a 1/4 inch drive metric socket set (DEEP) for the valve cover bolts. Also, all four coils are oil soaked. I will attempt to dry them out. I have a new coil for #8.

Also, the coil wiring harness is attached to the back of the valve cover with one of those plastic tab things. There is absolutely no room/space to grab it and detach it. Not to mention you cant see it. Its the simple things that hang these kinds of jobs up. UGH!

One more Also. You will need a 'fuel line disconnect kit'. O'Riley has them for about $10. If you think you can get buy without disconnecting the fule line think again. The oil fill tower will not clear and you will not be able to remove the valve cover. Get a bag of plastic ziplocks, or something similar. They come in handy for holding back all the conduits and hoses that keep dangling in the way.

AND think of finding a way to suck the oil puddle from the spark plug wells.

done for the day. Frustration with that EGR bracket. Its somehow, mounted on the back of the engine. With the bracket there You can pull the valve cover off but its tough to put it back on because the bracket is in the way and makes it too tight to get the cover back on without bumping it against everything.

its all put back together. ...darn dipstick tube was a pain in the ???. No leaks, no misfires. Even washed the engine. Thanks for everything -Rod.

next the clock spring and then the airbag light. It blinks (1-2-3-pause-1-2) a few times then it stays on.

[34Ford]

My wifes 01 is going in tomorrow to have the valve cover gaskets replaced for the 2nd time in 3 years.

I almost wished she had a Mark VIII.

[shorod]

Are they using the redesigned gen 1 valve cover gaskets?

-Rod

[34Ford]

Sorry for not getting back sooner. But I didn't know about re-designed gen 1 gaskets.

Well $700 later I hope these last a little while. The dealer said to expect to replace them annually!!

So we were looking around last night for a different car for her. We did see a silver '04 LS V8 on a lot for $15,000
But we are hesitant to buy any more LS's.

[shorod]

There were a few design improvements for the 2003-2006. The valve cover gaskets aren't supposed to be a problem for the second gen, the HP has been bumped up, they went to throttle by wire, and there were some interior design changes.

-Rod

[danielsatur]

THAT's why I like doing my things myself,See JAGUAR;S TYPE
BOOT + BONNET FLOOD,SPARK PLUG SEAL,and SPARK PLUG COIL.

MCGIVER

[dugan50]

Here's a site that will explain everything you need to know about airbag lights and resetting the system.
On most vehicles, the airbag light should come on for @6 seconds, and then go off if the system is working properly. If there is a fault or a problem in the system, the light will remain illuminated, or flash continuously. If the airbag light does not work properly, some vehicles have an audible tone that sounds indicating a problem with the airbag light system. When the light is on (or the tone is sounding), the airbag will NOT deploy, even in an accident. Most systems can only be diagnosed using a scanner designed for the airbag system, however some use flash codes to indicate the problem. The scanners at Auto Zone or the ones that sell for @ $50 will not access the airbag system, only the engine systems (check engine light).
This website gives you the procedure for diagnosing and resetting some systems without a scanner. Some vehicle manufacturers accommodate that (like Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infinity, Honda, Acura, Ford, Lincoln, Mazda & Mercury) and some require a scan tool. http://www.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out these websites also for more info on airbag systems and the light.
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/arch...ould-i-do.aspx
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/resources.aspx
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out this scanner for AIRBAG>>>It’s the cheapest one I’ve found!
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/scanner.aspx