92 Accord turns over but no start

[ruf819]

I have a 1992 Honda Accord and it died right in the middle of driving. Since then it has been unable to start. We put a new fuel filter on it, and then we put on a new ignition coil. My husband checked to see if there was fire and there was none, and that is why we replaced the coil. It still will not start and there is still no fire coming from the coil. I am so frustrated as to what to check. Having read so many of the posts, I thought that I should check the ignition switch but I am not sure how to check it or bypass it to see if the car will start. Pleeeeeaasssseeee...... Helppppppp

[jeffcoslacker]

Make sure the timing belt didn't break, and the distributor is turning...will not spark if either is broke....sometimes the distributors would have a bearing in the base that went bad, and the shaft would break, making the rotor stop...the inside of the distributor will be evenly dusted with reddish-brown deposits if that happened. Crank the motor and see if the rotor turns.

You can look into the oil fill cap and watch to see if the cam moves when cranking...if not, the belt popped...

[ProMan]

If the timing belt is fine, then it's your igniter. Which is in your distributor.

[ruf819]

What does it cost to replace the ignitor? Do you have to remove the distributor to do this? Bear with me, I am a girl and I know some about cars, but not alot.

Thanks

[ProMan]

The part cost $100-$120 new from dealer. To replace, you need to take the distributor off. Then take the cap and rotor off to access the igniter. I did it myself so don't know how much the shop would charge or if they even will just replace the igniter (normally they only replace the distributor, nothing inside).

Let me know if you want to do it yourself.

[ruf819]

I would like to do it myself. Any hints or tips you have would be greatly appreciated.

[mpumas]

Well, it is not necessary to remove the distributor but it is easier to do it with the distributor off the car, but then after removing the distributor you need to set the timing. So one way is easier but requires setting the timing, the other is a little more difficult but can be done with the distributor in the car.

The igniter can be purchased from the dealer or from someone like Kragens/Schuck/Checker/CSK Auto for about $65.00. But before you do this, there are some other checks that Honda recommends and it requires a volt/ohm meter which every mechanically inclined person should own.
They are not expensive (about $20.00) and can purchased from Radio Shack,Home Depot or a do-it yourself electronics store.

First check: 12 volts to the distributor. Disconnect the 2P connector that goes into the distributor. On the cable side (that does not go into the distributor) turn on the key and measure voltage on the blk/yel wire to ground. It should read 12 volts. Turn the engine over with the meter connected, voltage should stay at 12 volts. If OK, go to next step.

Second check. Disconnect the 6P connector that goes into the distributor. On the distributor side, and with the ignition on, measure the voltage on the Yel/grn wire. It should read about 10 volts. If not replace the igniter.

The igniter is inside the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the protective cover. The igniter is held in with 2 screws and has 5 push-on wire clips. Carefully remove the wires keeping track of their location. The two screws are on the bottom. Remove them and pull the igniter out. Install the new igniter and reattach the push-on clips, protective cover, rotor, and distributor cap.

There could also be other problems causing it not to start, but you are starting with the two most probable causes (the coil and igniter). Other causes could be with the main relay, pick-up coils in the distributor and the ECU itself. Of course, you checked to make sure the timing belts are OK, correct??????????? Keep us advised.

[ruf819]

I would first like to test the ignition switch and the main relay. Could you tell me how I can test them with a voltage meter?

Thanks

[mpumas]

You test the ignition switch by doing first check. The main relay is more a visual check of solder joints. Look for breaks in the solder between the pc board and the relay terminals. The main relay consists of two relays, a resistor, and a couple of diodes. One relay is for the fuel pump and the other for the ECU. The diodes and resistor are in the coil circuit of the fuel pump relay coil. I have never heard of a relay coil burning out but you can check resistenances of the coil by reading across blk and blk/yel wire terminals. There should be some resistance (maybe 400 ohms). The fuel pump is the coil is the grn/blk and yel/blk wire terminals. Because there are diodes, resistance will be evident with the meter wires connected one way and it will show an open with the meter leads reversed.

[BS13]

Originally Posted by ProMan

The part cost $100-$120 new from dealer. To replace, you need to take the distributor off. Then take the cap and rotor off to access the igniter. I did it myself so don't know how much the shop would charge or if they even will just replace the igniter (normally they only replace the distributor, nothing inside).

Let me know if you want to do it yourself.

I would suspect the ignitor also. My '90 Accord has had three of them. The first time, the car was running fine, I parked it overnight and it wouldn't start in the morning...notta. Surprizingly I had to have my car towed and I took it to the dealer and found out there was a campaign on the distributor. They replaced the distribotor for free. talk about being lucky. As much as I hate going to the dealer, this time it worked in my favor. You might want to check with aphone call first or even contact Honda America. I don't have a number.

Also, the other times the ignitor went out, the car did really funky things. Like cough and sputter etc. This was all a long time ago.

The ignitor was not hard to replace except one time I did have a difficult time because the tiny screws holding the module in place were really stuck tight and the screwheads were tearing up. It was a real hot day - I remember well.

I've never tested the ignitor. but if you can that would be good.

Also, I got my ignitor at Autozone. I'm not recommending that store over others but the prices are competitive, especially compared to the dealer.

I hope this gives a little insight to your problem.

[ruf819]

I was told by a Honda mechanic that if you put a circuit tester in both sides of the plug for one of the fuel injectors and try to crank it, then you should get a steady light on one tester and a blinking light on the other. If not then it is the main relay. Is this information correct, or did I get my information mixed up? When I tested it, I only got a steady burning light in one tester and nothing in the other one.

[mpumas]

I think I understand what you are saying.. I think you are saying that if you disconnect a fuel injector connector for one of the cylinders and put a circuit tester across the pins of the cable and crank the engine, you should see the tester blink if everything is working correctly. When the main relay closes, it powers the injectors through the injector resistors. In an operating engine, the solid color wires are looking for a pulsing ground which the ECU provides. So you could also go from the red/blk wires to ground and you would see 12 volts if the main relay was operating.

[ruf819]

Keep your fingers crossed guys we are replacing the ignitor today.

[ruf819]

It was the ignitor!!!!!!! Hurray!!! This forum is the best. You guys rock!! We just saved ourselves about $400-$500 at least.

Before anyone replaces an expensive distributor please please replace the ignitor first, and it can be replaced without removing the distributor.

THANKS AGAIN