'64 Powerglide suddenly leaking when parked?

[Rickchevy56]

Hello,
Brad Bergholdt an auto repair insturctor who writes a column for the San Jose Mercury has an article 5/11/7 about a tranny on a '97 Camaro leaking after being parked awhile. Like some of the forum people he says it probably is due to torque converter drain back and tempory oil pan over filling and a faulty oil pan gasket, dipstick tube o-ring or throttle-valve calble o-ring. He says it can be easily fixed. Guys you think that is the same for the '64 powerglide?
thanks much,
Rick
Hello Chevvy people
My '64 Impala (which is the one I want to swap out the 350 for hopefully a 283) has been parked for 6 weeks after the starting became unreliable. The 2 speed coolant cooled Powerglide AT had been working fine, no leakage. (Though in July 04 when I has AAMCO changed the fluid and put in a new filter they said it had to be rebuilt for $1200; after that it worked fine for 15K miles!
I believe the tranny is original to the car ; we got it in '82 as far as I know there was no major work done on it.
It has to be parked on a very slight slope on the street and in PARK since the parking brake line is broken. after a few days I noticed fluid underneath and found it was from the tranny. I took it out of PARK 'cuz I thought the slight slope might be putting pressure on the tranny holding the car in place so I put it in neutral but it stll leaks! Help. I hope I don't have to replace the tranny also.
thanks, Rick

[bobss396]

Having it in park has nothing to do with a leak issue. It is probably either the front seal or rear seal. Check the dipstick tube and modulator while you're there.

The front seal will leak into the flywheel inspection pan under the torque converter. The rear will leak where the drive shaft goes in. You may have to study it's habits, but you'll find it.

The rear seal you can do at home in most cases. The front one requires pulling the transmission. You might want to shop around for a rebuild deal on a "carry in" basis. You do all the hard work and the shop just does the rebuild. I used to do this all the time.

Bob

[Blue Bowtie]

It's not the fact that the transmission is in PARK (or any other range) that is likely the problem, but that the engine is shut off and half the oil in the torque converter is draining back to the pan. The primary suspect in this case is the dipstick tube seal, or bobss396 indicated, output shaft seal.

Incidentally, if this is strictly a pleasure car, and isn't used for regular transportation, rebuilding a PowerGlide is very easy. Most all the necessary seals, friction surfaces, and bushings can be had for under $150. A new separator plate is another $15, and a pump rotor/vanes should be another $25. You can have a fairly complete rebuild for very little cost in materials. The hardest part is removal and installation, and even that is not that difficult on a '64.

[bobss396]

Powerglides are easy to work on. The kits used to go for around $36 back in 1975 or so. Most shops did what was called a "front job" on them. They'd pull the pump, change the front clutch pack, reseal it, flush the converter and hit you up for $225 with all labor.. and somehow make $$ on it.

I'm sure reference material is still around, all the parts should be easy to come by too.

Bob