Codes 171 and 174

[AvalonJohn]

Guys,

Getting ready to do the 171 and 174 code fix. One thing I can never seem to get right is putting the old gaskets back. I know the replacement valve cover comes with a new gasket so I'm ok there. How many gaskets are involved in the manifold removal/replacement to clean the ERG ports and replace the bolts ? Anyone know the part numbers for replacement gaskets in the manifold ? I don't want to try and reuse the old ones.

Also, anything that might be tricky in this procedure or that I should watch out for ?

Thanks,

AvalonJohn

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by AvalonJohn

Guys,

Getting ready to do the 171 and 174 code fix. One thing I can never seem to get right is putting the old gaskets back. I know the replacement valve cover comes with a new gasket so I'm ok there. How many gaskets are involved in the manifold removal/replacement to clean the ERG ports and replace the bolts ? Anyone know the part numbers for replacement gaskets in the manifold ? I don't want to try and reuse the old ones.

Also, anything that might be tricky in this procedure or that I should watch out for ?

Thanks,

AvalonJohn

Hi

If you have not yet seen this site, it has all the info you need.
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

You will have 6 port seals to change and they just pop out/in. I did not have to do the valve cover change as these were modified vehicles. I did not run into too many snags, however, I did have to RTV the inner baffle once I opened it up. One of the vehicles I did was quiet before the fix and rattled like a son of a gun after. I had to re-open it and RTV the baffle. Also, I did not purchase a new vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. I tested it and it held vacuum well. Do remove the cowl, it will make your life much easier.

Good luck, and be ready for the P04xx code from the DPFE after the fix.

[AvalonJohn]

Dpfe ???

[phil-l]

DPFE = Differential Pressure Feedback EGR

Yes, a two-level abbreviation (EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

Many of us have discovered that the DPFE sensor is ready to fail at just about the same time the isolator bolts need to be replaced. My Windstar was no exception: About a month after doing the isolator bolts, a DPFE code popped up (P0402 is the common code, if memory serves correctly).

The sensor is easy to replace. Given my experience, I'd be tempted to just go ahead and replace it while everything is apart for the isolator bolt fix.

[DRW1000]

I too followed the procedure that Busboy entioned. They are great. I didn't replace the fuel pressure regulator as mine was still tight fitting. It is easily accessible if I need to replace it in the future.

Phil-1 is right in that the DPFE will probably fail soon if it hasn't already done so however it is easy to get to and only about 10 minutes to change so there is no harm in waiting until you get the code before worrying about it.

[AvalonJohn]

busboy4,

I thought the inner baffle just snapped into something ? Why did you have to RTV it ? I'm thinking RTV in there might be risky ...

Thanks,

John

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by AvalonJohn

busboy4,

I thought the inner baffle just snapped into something ? Why did you have to RTV it ? I'm thinking RTV in there might be risky ...

Thanks,

John

Hi John

The baffle "snaps" become worn I guess. And with the turbulence of the intake air it rattles. Many of us have used RTV to snug them up and are having no problem. Keep in mind that it is only intake air, and not any fuel in that area. Yes some oily residue is in there as it often is in the throttle body.

[phil-l]

My baffle came out without problem - and went back in snugly without problem. It didn't make noise before I did the isolator bolts - so I put it back in *without* RTV. No problems.