lousy lumi' brakes!

[gw84]

The brakes on these cars suck!! I've had to replace the calipers 3 times in like 5 years. Everytime we/they attempt to change out pads and/or rotors, the calipers freeze up. This time I was driving around and the right rear caliper froze up causing the pad to "melt" to nothing. All my parts were under warranty, luckily, but I still had to pay $75 to have them installed
Is there anything that can be done to extend the life of brakes? How about keeping the calipers from freezing up?

[maxwedge]

Usually it is not the caliper that is the issue, it is the slide pins that were trroublesome, make sure they are clean and thoroughly lubed with specific caliper lube.

[KKLumina]

I've heard setting the parking brake several times a week will "re-adjust" the rear calipers - extending the life of them by not allowing them to freeze up. I just put a "loaded set" (calipers w/ pads) onto my '90 Lumina from AutoZone that have a lifetime warranty. 1,000 miles later - they froze up and I need to replace them again. My parking brake is frozen, so I'm getting that fixed at the same time as the rear brakes.

[1993LUMINATOR]

driving therw canadian winters all my life and NEVER using my e-brake l'c had to replace the rearcalipers every 2-3summers comman acurents caliper is just dead.
this euro l'm driving is awsome not a single caliper in the past 50,xxxmiles sence last summer. and l just drive this car oil changed monthly and thats all
my old reg lumina took new calipers every 20-30,xxxmiles amd l was trying every method to preserve them working.

[richtazz]

The original slide bushings were steel, and would seize due to metallic particles from the brake dust getting in them and rusting. There is an upgraded slide kit that includes bronze bushings to eliminate this problem. Using your parking brake on occasion will also help keep these bushings free.

[gw84]

Originally Posted by richtazz

Using your parking brake on occasion will also help keep these bushings free.

Aside from this, is there any "maintenence" that can be periodically done (cleaning, lubing, etc) that might stop this problem?
Do the 2nd generation lumi's have the same problem as the 1st generation?

[kevinb70]

i usu just replace the calipers when i do my brakes, still cheaper overall than paying someone to do only the pads/shoes

have a brake job coming up soon, replacing calipers, pins, rotors/drums (getting a better quality rotor than the ones I bought last time), and ceramic pads

[jeffcoslacker]

Calipers themselves rarely go bad...most of what is diagnosed as bad calipers is actually stuck hardware that gets replaced or broke loose and lubed when the calipers are changed...

GM brake hoses have a high failure rate also...can mimic a bad caliper. i drive them until I can feel it dragging, then open the bleeder screw. A bad hose will cause fluid to shoot out, and you can feel and hear the caliper relax, as the problem is actually hydraulic pressure...a caliper or hardware causing mechanical drag will have very little or no fluid pushed out when you open it.

[comptech_69]

Replace with 94+ rears and you'll be set and never have this problem again. I just spent a little over $500 to do front and rear rotors, calipers & pads on my lumina - and within the first couple hundred miles the pedal got its vibration back. I didn't have 15" wheels so I couldn't do the 94+ upgrade. I was planning on fixing hte car and selling it, but htat didn't happen so I'm stuck with the crappy brakes.

[gw84]

I hate to bring up an older topic, but I think I'm facing the problem again. I was just wondering if anyone, especially jeffcoslacker could elaborate on checking to see if the brake hoses are the problem rather than the calipers themselves. I noticed that when I was backing up this morning, I heard some rubbing from the right rear of the car. Sure enough, upon my inspection, the pad was right up against the rotor. I'd like to see if I can pinpoint the problem myself before taking it to the mechanic for another $75 job. thanks again ~gw84

[frank6060]

I posted on an earlier thread problem I found with RR caliper on 90 lumina not releasing. The cause turned out to be a pinched metal brake line. Luckily a Buddy had a similiar experience or I may have never figured it out. A metal tab holding line developed rust around it that actually squeezed line. This causes fluid PSI to not or slowly release when releasing brake pedal. It may not be tab but definitely check metal lines and hoses. The rubber hoses can break down internally and restrict fluid to caliper. A brake mechanic told me that emergency brake adjusts rear calipers so I got those working. It's just tough to remember to use them once in a while with an automatic.

[richtazz]

gw84, since you were the OP, I see no problem with you resurrecting this old thread.

On your issue, just grab the hose in your hand and wiggle it around. If you see the whole caliper suddenly release, then the hose is the culprit. You can also try cracking the bleeder to release the piston. If only the piston moves, and not the whole caliper, then the caliper slides could be the issue. If the piston still doesn't release or there is no built up pressure, then it's the parking brake mechanism in the caliper piston that is seized and the caliper needs to be replaced.

[gw84]

thanks a lot guys! I will try the suggestions ASAP and post back results soon. Luckily I've got the LTZ to hold me over til I can get it fixed

[gw84]

here's the latest. Jacked up the luminator this afternoon and found that the pads were wore down (on the right rear). Odd because they were changed less than 4k miles ago and back in June. Oh well. I loosened the bleeder screw and just a little bit of fluid escaped. Also wiggled the hose around and nothing happened. I guess I'll have to wait until next week to see what I can do.

[gw84]

Well I finally got it in the shop today. Had the rotor, pads, caliper on the right side replaced. The mechanic could not find any kinks, leaks, or anything of the like the could be the culprit for my problem. Someone finally suggested that it might be the master cylinder. What do y'all think? Does that sound like a possible culprit here? I'm wondering why no one has mentioned that until now. I was also told that I might have this recurring problem because I'm replacing the calipers with aftermarket ones which are made differently...thoughts?

On the same topic, should I go ahead and replace the pads on the left-rear since I just did the right rear? They're not wore down like the left side was (caliper not frozen), but I think it might be a good idea so that they'll be the same thickness.