Old Honda Missing (?) at 2300 RPM

[JoeSmith949]

Hello,

I just bought an old Honda, a 1987 Accord, 5 speed, 110,000 miles. I got it cheap and i wont keep it long, so i don't want to put any major work into it. I've driven it for a few days, both at freeway speeds, as well as stop-and-go city driving. It runs quite well, it idles nicely, starts quite dependably. However, when accelerating it does something at the 2200 to 2700 RPM range. It's like a loss of power, kind of on and off very fast several times (each time is only a small fraction of a second). There is never a feeling that it's actually going to stall. Once the RPM gets above 3000, the problem seems to disappear. If the gears are shifted before 2000 RPM, then there is also no problem.

Any ideas what this problem could be? Is there any reason the car cannot continue to be dependable transportation, even if i don't fix it?

I really appreciate your help. Thank you.

[Glen_T]

I'm assuming this is carbureted, not fuel injected?

If I remember correctly, this is a 2 barrel carb, and I wonder if you have a problem with the secondary (second barrel). The secondary throttle is opened mechanically when you press the accelerator pecal past around 1/2 way. However, there is a vacuum diaphragm that opens the secondary throttle a slight amount prior to it opening mechanically. I wonder if you have a sticking linkage or a loose/broken vacuum hose so that the throttle is not opening when it is supposed to.

Another possible issue would be some dirty secondary jets that are not providing enough fuel as you tranistion from 1 barrel to 2 barrels open.

Hard to tell without looking at it. However, if you want to try to fix it, I'd get a can of carb cleaner and take off the air cleaner cover, air cleaner, and lower air cleaner housing. Hose down all the exterior linkages with the carb cleaner (use the small tube to direct the spray). You may want to put a rag down below it so that it doesn't run everywhere.

Another trick I used to do on my 1980 Accord was to remove the incoming fuel line at the carburetor, then dip it down to drain as much fuel out of it as possible. I would then tip it up and fill it up with carb cleaner. Then, I'd reattach it really quick so the carb would get a big slug of carb cleaner. Start the car and then let it run a little. Activate the throttle to make sure the secondary opens. It will likely run pretty bad for a little bit, but it seems to help by eliminating some gum/varnish in the carbs.

Can you leave it alone, probably. But it might be an indication of things to come, so it may be worth a $4 can of carb cleaner to try to fix it.

Also, I'd inspect all the vacuum hoses to make sure none are disconnected (or connected to the wrong places!) and if any have holes in them....

I guess you could have an ignition problem, but that usually is a very sharp miss, and I'm not sure why it would be specific to a certain RPM range.

Hope this helps.....Glen

[jeffcoslacker]

Glen...another way to do that is to disconnect and block off the fuel line (or disable the pump if electric), run the engine until it stalls when the carb empties out, then fill the carb directly with the can of carb cleaner spray through the fuel inlet...when it backs up, it's full. Put the line back on and start it up (they will start and run on carb cleaner), the incoming fuel will slowly dilute the cleaner but the entire fuel circuit will get a nice blast...run it through the entire range, stepping on and off the throttle to make sure all jets and passages get a shot...

Like you, I'll usually try this before resorting to tearing a carb apart...lotta times it's all it needed.

[EAGLESFAN]

I am having a very similar issue. However, I own a:

- 1989 Honda Accord
- 2.0L Fuel Injected
- 5 speed manual transmission

OBD codes:

- IABV faulty circuit (replaced...didn't solve problem, however, I didn't expect it to.)

The engine hesitates between the rpm range of 2000-3000 when under a load. If the transmission is in neutral, the engine revs fine through this range, only under a load does it cause a problem. I also noticed it's more noticeable when the engine is at operating temperature. When the engine is cold, it seems to have more power.

Outside of the advice already given, what alternative measures could be taken to solve this problem?

The advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks.