93 Lesabre Stalling and no one knows why

[TheDeal526]

1993 Buick Lesabre Custom
3.8L V6 106,000 miles

Ok so a couple days ago my Lesabre just stalled on when I came to a stop. I started it back up and thought nothing of it until it stalled again a few streets later. It wouldn't start after the second time it stalled. Then I started doing playing with the key turninig it back and forth. After that it started and didn't stall again.

The next day I took it to Aamco and had to perform a computer and exterior diagnostic. Of course the car didn't stall on them, and they say they didn't find any codes. Later that night my girl and I were going to the movies when it stalled while I was driving. So today I took it to Meinke and just like Aamco they found no codes and could find nothing wrong with this car.

Now I'm lost here friends. I was sure I would be told I needed a new fuel pump. The last work I've done to the car was replace the fuel filter, and that was about 3 months ago. Prior to that I changed the plugs and wires, radiator, water pump, alternator. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this? I don't want to run out and put a fuel pump in this car if I don't need one. Any ideas????

Thanks All

[HotZ28]

Has anyone checked the fuel pressure?

[TheDeal526]

The Buick is still at Meinike's shop, and I wont be able to pick it up until Tuesday. But from what I was told over the phone everything was checked. I'll be sure to ask if the fuel pressure was checked.

I heard something about a fuel pressure regulator. Would that be the reason to test the fuel pressure? Or would a fuel pressure test determine if the fuel pump is the culprit? Someone also mentioned one or more of my fuel injectors may be clogged. Does anyone have any ideas on that?

[spinne1]

It is almost for sure not a clogged injector. Your car would keep running with a clogged injector (albeit rougher). Check the fuel pressure, which would eliminate the fuel pump if okay. These cars are becoming famous for these random stalls (read this board alot and you'll see what I mean). When my 92 had the same symptoms, it turned out to be a bad ignition module (a $200 part) that sits under your ignition coils near your alternator (where the spark plug wires go). Yours may be that or something else. You will find several things that it could be if you read all the other stalling posts. Really, though, the only way to find out is to have it checked out by a good mechanic (ie probably not at Aamco or Meineke). To solve this issue requires running specific tests in a specific order. Those two places you have gone may not have the detailed test info to fix your car (or if they do may not want to bother doing it as it can be very labor intensive). Think of those places more as parts changers in my opinion.

[Smith1000]

Does it usually stall when coming to a stop (as you mentioned)? If so, maybe it is the torque converter lock-up not unlocking when the brake is applied, but, there would probably be a code for this-so, possibly not.

I would start by checking to make sure the battery terminals are clean and snug. Is the battery good and charging up okay? I would then check and clean the ground wires to make sure the electrical grounds are good and making good contact. Also, might re-check the alternator connections to make sure all are clean and tight.

I have read occasionally about some experiencing stalling when the fuel level in the tank is low. When filled up, the stalling seems to clear up. Just a few ideas.

[TheDeal526]

Hey thanks for all your input HotZ28 , spinne1 and Smith1000. If my problem is the ignitional module, wouldn't there be some kind of code stored in the computer? I was also thinking the battery terminals could be lose, but they are actually new terminals i recently put on and they are nice and tight. There is a little corrision on the ground cable that goes to the chassis. I planned on replacing that, but I seriously doubt that's my issue. Oh by the way, it stalls anytime, not just when I come to a stop.

Just by chance, how much is the labor an ignitional module replacement? I do have a personal mechanic, will he be able to test the ignitional module to determine if that is the culprit if the Buick is running fine?

Again, thanks all

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by TheDeal526

Hey thanks for all your input HotZ28 , spinne1 and Smith1000. If my problem is the ignitional module, wouldn't there be some kind of code stored in the computer? Oh by the way, it stalls anytime, not just when I come to a stop.
Just by chance, how much is the labor an ignitional module replacement? I do have a personal mechanic, will he be able to test the ignitional module to determine if that is the culprit if the Buick is running fine?

Again, thanks all

It would be nice if an intermittent ICM problem would always set a code, however, usually that is not the case! AutoZone can test the ignition module under load to determine if that is the problem. You might ask them to test it three or four times for better results. It should take no more than 30 min to R&R the module, in fact, all you have to do is remove the coils and remove one screw on the wiring harness, and it is off. You could do this yourself!

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by TheDeal526

Hey thanks for all your input HotZ28 , spinne1 and Smith1000. If my problem is the ignitional module, wouldn't there be some kind of code stored in the computer? I was also thinking the battery terminals could be lose, but they are actually new terminals i recently put on and they are nice and tight. There is a little corrision on the ground cable that goes to the chassis. I planned on replacing that, but I seriously doubt that's my issue. Oh by the way, it stalls anytime, not just when I come to a stop.

Just by chance, how much is the labor an ignitional module replacement? I do have a personal mechanic, will he be able to test the ignitional module to determine if that is the culprit if the Buick is running fine?

Again, thanks all

Sorry about this, but my use of the term "ignitional" module was just a typo. It is an "ignition" module. I hope that saves you a little embarrassment at the auto parts place or garage.

Secondly, where do you live? If you live by a pull-it-yourself junk yard, the prices are insanely cheap! It is so cheap that if you suspect a part is bad, it is cheaper to replace parts than to pay for someone to diagnose your problem (assuming you are right about the part being bad, and assuming the part that you get at the yard is good, and assuming that you don't have more than one part that needs replacing). For example, around the south they have http://www.pullapart.com/ which is the greatest thing ever for scoring cheap parts, especially things like interior parts that are not otherwise available at a reasonable price.

[Smith1000]

I think I would carry a pair of pliers with insulated handles along in the car. Next time it stalls, pop the hood and carefully pull a plug wire and hold the boot slightly back from the top of the plug. Hold onto it lightly with the insulated handles. Have someone turn over the engine and look for a blue spark to jump from the plug wire to the top of the plug. If there is no spark during the no start, you probably have an ignition problem. If it is sparking and still won't start, there may be a fuel problem or something else wrong. If there is no spark, a good place to start might be replacing the ignition module. I would like to see no spark before replacing the module (particularly if there is no code). I would probably go for a salvaged one as mentioned because chances are the modules will be good and the price will be right.

I have done this check before by myself many times with a cheap remote starter switch rigged under the hood so I can turn the car over while checking for a spark at the plug wire (no passenger). Careful though and don't get shocked. Seems like whenever my wife has helped me with this, I get zapped.

Might check to make sure the connections are tight on the module and all grounds for it are clean. I think it has a separate ground wire (possibly). Some have posted that when their modules are going bad, they leak or ooze something out.

I have never experienced a bad ignition module in a Buick, but have in other cars. Had one that would get hot and cut out. After cooling down, it would start and run for a bit. Had others just go completely dead. Had one that would only run if I squeezed the module. If I let go, it would die. I put a C clamp on it and, remarkably, it ran for several years. I replaced one module in an Oldsmobile and the problem remained. Had to replace the ECU to fix it. It had a code though that said it was either the ECU or the ignition module.

[Fortune50]

If the car has a tach in the dash, see if it's moving while you're cranking over the engine next time it stalls out, if it's not then it may actually be the crankshaft sensor, even possibly the camshaft sensor. If it is moving, then I'd suspect the ignition module or a fueling issue. Get a can of t-body cleaner and spray it into a vacuum port on the engine and see if it will fire up for a few seconds or not. But if it's cutting out like the engine was shut off vs. slowly cutting out and then dying like running out of fuel, then I'd suspect something electrical...I had a buddy's '91 Olds 98 start stalling out on him, he had the crank & cam sensors replaced and it's been fixed ever since, (done over 2 years ago).

[davdogg42]

My 97 buick lasabre has been in the shop 3 times in the past month for the same reason ...stalling. She ran fine all winter no problems until it got warm outside. I had the igniton mod changed twice. Got the parts from the junk yard cause its a 200 dollar part new. My machanic( who is pretty good by the way) found a bad wire leading to the Ignition Mod and changed it. It ran fine for two weeks then she died on me while driving home today.
I had the fuel pump and fuel filter changed back in November.
You can check the fuel pump by cranking the engine and have somebody put thier ear to where you put your gas in and listen for a humming sound.
I would have somebody check the wiring to the Ignition mod in your case. My problem maybe more serious than yours. Starting to get very fustrated with my 97 lesabre to say the least.