Broken MAF with PO102

[jem270]

I threw a P0102 a couple of days ago. The car idled and ran fine. I replaced the air filter, checked and found no vacuum leak. I should have checked the voltage but I forgot to. I cleared the code and the code came back a few hours later. I took the MAF out and it did not look dirty. I put it back and cleared the code and it came back the next day. I went to the local auto parts store and got a spray can of MAF cleaner. I took the MAF out and when it came out it looked different. The bottom part was still in the throttle body. I took the screen off the throttle body and there was no access the the underside where I could push the piece up. All I can think of is to either drill a hole in the piece and put a screw in it to pull it out or superglue something to it to use as a handle to pull it out. The part that remains is the very end below the metal wires. It looks like it is manufactured in two pieces and glued together.

Anyone else ever had this happen?

I had nothing to lose so I sprayed the MAF wires and put it back on. I had to move it around so it would mate up with the piece in the throttle body and it went all the way on. I fired the motor up and it ran OK. I cleared the code and drove it around and about 30 minutes later the check engine light came back on (still idled and ran OK) and it was code P0102 again. I will check the voltage later today but it looks like I need a new MAF anyway.

[jem270]

I just found this while surfing about p0102.

Check for:

vacuum leak
pvc system
oil dip stick not fully seated
oil fill cap loose or missing


I changed the oil a month or so ago. The dipstick was fine. I check the oil yesterday and noticed that a piece of the oil dip stick that sticks into the tube was broken and sliding up and down the dip stick. It looks like a pencil eraser. It won't come off because of the bend on the bottom of the dip stick. I ignored it yesterday because of the MAF. Maybe this is my problem!

Looks like I still need to buy a MAF however.

[BNaylor]

Don't get too far off track. Check the voltages at the MAF sensor electrical connector mainly the PCM 5 volt reference. As far as MAF output back to the PCM module forget about it unless you have an oscilloscope and know how to use one. DTC P0102 is typically a bad MAF sensor. It is not a low voltage condition but a low frequency. DTC P0102 indicates the PCM module has detected a MAF output frequency that is too low at the low side threshold. < 1200 Hz.

MAF color coding and pin configuration left to right. Pin C, B, and A in that order.

C = PCM reference voltage (5 volts)
B = ground
A = MAF signal output

According to my documentation Pin C can be color coded either pink or brown. Pin B is typically black/white (ground). Pin A is either yellow or gray/white.

Replace the MAF sensor but use a OEM/GM and not an aftermarket reman. like A1 Cardone.

Originally Posted by gem270

I changed the oil a month or so ago. The dipstick was fine. I check the oil yesterday and noticed that a piece of the oil dip stick that sticks into the tube was broken and sliding up and down the dip stick. It looks like a pencil eraser. It won't come off because of the bend on the bottom of the dip stick. I ignored it yesterday because of the MAF.

That broken piece on the dipstick will not cause your MAF problem. It is part of the dipstick handle and should have an o-ring seal to keep oil from coming out the dipstick tube which never happens even with the piece broken.

[jem270]

Thanks for the reply.

At this point I will just get a new MAF sensor since the old one is broken and I don't trust it. I may play with checking voltage just for the practice since I can't mess it up anyway.

I read on other posts about not using Cardone sensors. I called an autoparts store just out of curiosity and was told they had a new one for $167.00 with no core charge and lifetime warrantee. I called my local pontiac dealship and they have a new one for $232.00 plus an additional $60.00 core charge if I don't bring the old one. I was hoping to keep the old one as a spare but I guess since it is broke it don't make sense. It is hard to pay the higher price but I will bite the bullet and take your advice. Thank you for the help.

I'll post back the results. It may be a few days though.

[jem270]

I had some time this evening so I took the car apart. I was able to remove the broken plastic part by wrapping scotch tape around a socket extenson and pushing it into the hole. I cleaned the hole out with the MAF cleaner even though it looked clean already. I put the new MAF sensor on and took the car for a drive. It seemed to drive better and shift better but it may be my imagination. I should know for sure tomorrow when I drive it more and check it for any pending codes if the check engine light is not on. Cross your fingers for me.

I did not notice until I took it out of the package that it was a remanufactured part. When I called the dealership early today they said it was a new part. The part number on the package was 8896-1008. It says "SENS REM MASS AI". I paid $232.36 plus $60.00 core charge plus $17.54 tax for a total of $309.90. He said I will get the $60.00 back when I return the core. I will go back on Friday because I ordered some other parts for another car. I will ask them what a new MAF costs. He told me earlier today that it has a 12 month warrantee. I don't see any warrantee mentioned on my receipt.

I am a little pissed.

[jem270]

So far so good. I drove it around last night and this afternoon and so far no service engine soon light and no pending codes. Looks like it is fixed.