bleah needs to be done :(

[ikeyballz]

Hey..so i really need some major help. how hard is it to rebuild an engine. i need someone whose done it before..to tell me how to pull an engine out of a 97 camaro..

also, if i am getting into it.. what should i do to the engine? like new crank/cam/valves/chain/dist/etc.

should i rebuild a LT1 or a 350TPI. the 350 bolts on to a t56 that came off of an LT1, right?

i need the TPI to put out more power than a stock LT1 if i am going to consider doing it to that car. if im gonna go through the trouble, id want in the neigborhood of ~400-500hp.

what will i need to do that? the TPI is already out, it came from an 88 firebird that was beaten on..so it prolly needs a lot of parts.

this is gonna be a really LONG project, not a one-two day deal..

i know it'll cost some $..i just want a list of parts and the difficulty level...



thanks alls. i want to be l33t like all of you guys and have a 'self built' V8.

[2.2 Straight six]

i'd go with the LT1.

what's your budget?

[ikeyballz]

whats the lowest i can get it while getting the power i want?

you think the LT1 is a better build? >_< its still in the car, btw. and the TPI is out..

i have both engines.. the 350 is from the formula that i crashed, prolly starting to rust inside a little..

[2.2 Straight six]

it depends whether you want to go all-motor or blown.

all-motor ~450hp is going to run you a few grand.

[ikeyballz]

wouldnt blown cost more anyway? since i have to go get high comp everything + the blower itself?

isnt all motor more reliable?

are eithier one better on gas?

[1986Z28]

you can build reliable blower motors, there just not streetable, whats this engine going into? if the camaro, stay with the lt1, build it up, big cam, knock it 0.030 over, bump up the comp to like 10.5:1, port the heads, better intake, etc, lt1's are great but kinda pricey

[ikeyballz]

yeah, its going into the maro.

oh, i also live in hawaii and dont know of ANY good machine shops around here.. :/ ill go call all the ricer shops around to see if they can bore a v8... lol

[Savage Messiah]

stick with the lt1, without a doubt


get the best opti or opti replacement that you can

[ikeyballz]

hahah. thanks for the tip :-P ill try to find one.. ay? this is gonna be a super long rebuild, if i actually get to it. i know for a fact im going to tear the top half off (just a little) just to check at whats whistling.. i have a feeling i have some gasket blown.. thats why its whistling so much..?

what bothers me.. is why does the whistling go away when i push the throttle? doesnt that point at a crappy tb?! oh, also whats that black cover thing on the LT1? in the middle of the throttle body.. it has like 8 or 10 torx screws holding it down..and below it, it has a rubber..film gasket...thing.

it some sort of vaccum thing right? what happens if the rubber gasket is all messed up? (torn/gone/twisted out of shape?)

[poormillionaire2]

Which ever motor you decide to tear into, I suggest rebuilding with a 383 stroker kit. You can always benefit from more cubes. Proper flowing heads, a huge matching cam, and full bolt-ons, you'd have yourself one of the meanest things on the street.

And if you go with the LT1, replace the opti with the Delteq kit.

[ikeyballz]

ok. im gonna start by buying some good ass manuals on the LT1 and the TPI..see which parts costs more per hp and which will be ebtter on gas...etc.

[2.2 Straight six]

Originally Posted by ikeyballz

wouldnt blown cost more anyway? since i have to go get high comp everything + the blower itself?

unless you're running a serious single-shot intercooler or alcohol inject, you wouldn't run high compression with a blown motor. blown engines run low compression ratios to get more air/fuel in, and because high compression mean pre-detonation.

[philly rs]

could a ls1 be in order??

[poormillionaire2]

I'd build the LT1 for the iron block.

[Morley]

Originally Posted by ikeyballz

ok. im gonna start by buying some good ass manuals on the LT1 and the TPI..see which parts costs more per hp and which will be ebtter on gas...etc.

No need for manuals. The TPI costs more per HP than the LT-x induction systems. The TPI is a multi piece intake system that has a very long airflow path (like a tunnel ram intake). Because of the length of all the runners, the TPI doesn't flow as well as the LT-x intake, but it does make GOBS of torque. A TPI can be made to make HP but the LT will make more with the same $$ invested. I have a 350 TPI making just over 400 HP and well over 400 ft/lbs and it gets 22 MPG as long as I keep my foot out if it (but what fun is that?)

If you want the best of both. Build a lower compression (9:1-8:1) base engine with ALL forged internals (crank, rods, pistons), perimum bearings, high pressure oil pump (not high volume) and if you are dead set on keeping it LT1, the best opti spark system avialable. Keep it at 350-355 cid. Get the heads ported and O ringed. Have the block O ringed as well. Then have the TY intake ported out to flow good without forced induction. Then add the forced induction of your choice (turbo or supercharger) running about 16 lbs of boost and intercooled. Now you'll have a good engine that will get decent gas mileage (without running boost) and an engine that will be a real monster when you put your foot in it and make the forced induction come alive.
With the proper programming you'll only be adding "extra" fuel when running under boost (rising rate regulator and/or an aux fuel management unit with "extra" injectors)
This way, just tooling down the highway at 60-70 MPH you'll probably be looking at or over 25 MPG, but have the serious power on tap when you need/want it.