need opinions on a sbc build

[jason-1995fbody]

ok i got a 89 iroc for 500 bucks its in really good shape the guy took the engine out and tore it down and now hes getting devorced so i got a steal
any way so far ive changed it from a roller to a hydrlic flat tappet cam becuse of price the specs are 510\533 lift and 302/312 advetised duration
i also got a set of heads with screw in studs guiedplates and lots of port work for 60 bucks ive changed to flat top pistons and i also plan to use a carb insted of efi also it came with a set of headman shorty headers a shift kit and bm hammer shifter


i know it is probly better to use the tpi and the roller cam but my budget is very low


so really the question is what kinda power can i expect and what is yer over all opinion



also i know it is a rs body kit but there are lots of pics in my gllary

[silicon212]

If you put in that cam and really nothing else, then the amount of power you can expect to make is next to nothing, but IT WILL SOUND AWESOME!

I've said it more than once here and I'll continue to say it - a cam is a part of a multi-component system, one of the bigger parts. The cam that you have is extremely aggressive for a street cam, in fact it won't be streetable at all. You can expect to idle no less than 1500 RPM, just to keep it running. Vacuum will be practically non existent at idle, any vacuum operated accessories i.e. power brakes, trans modulator where applicable etc, will cease to function without an external vacuum pump. You won't make any power until 2500-3000 with it, and that's assuming that you have 1-3/4" headers and a good, solid high rise intake, along with 2.02-2.05 intakes and 1.6 exhausts, dual 2.5"-3" pipes to the rear, etc etc.

If you put that cam in an otherwise stock engine, this will happen:

1. Coil bind. You will break valve springs, drop valves and break rocker arms, as well as bend pushrods with that high lift unless you use the specific spring and rocker combo.

2. Piston to valve interference - unless you have a new timing chain, expect bent valves, especially with stock pistons. Most 305s don't have valve reliefs machined into the pistons.

3. Valve to cylinder block interference - if your engine is a 305, large valves cannot be used. They will hit the block.

4. System design performance - a stock intake manifold will wheeze its way to inadequacy before your cam starts pulling. Stock exhaust will negate the high RPM operation of the cam, and the high RPM operation of the cam will prevent the engine from being usable below 3,000 RPM (about 95MPH with overdrive on stock gearing).

You can use a flat tappet cam, but don't be so aggressive with it. Also, stick with the TBI - it's less cumbersome, less temperamental and delivers more power while also delivering better economy.

[jason-1995fbody]

wo i should have mentioned its a 350 the heads come with new double springs and the heads are 202\160 s
and new cam bearing crank cut new bearings ect

[silicon212]

OK, that changes a few things ...

Basically, make sure the intake and exhaust are up to the cam, use a high-stall torque converter (if automatic), and throw some shorty gears in it (4.88 - higher) and that thing should bring home the gold.

Use pure racing oil or Rotella-T diesel oil in place of regular motor oil (Rotella-T is the cheapest of all of these and is recommended by COMP) in order that your flat tappet will live.

When you break that cam in, only use the outer valve springs to perform break in. It's a bit more work, because you have to install, uninstall and reinstall the valve springs, but it is MANDATORY if you want your cam to live.