1993 Camry tail light out indicator

[AznGunner]

On my dash, the bad light indicator used to come on occasionally, now it's always on. I've checked all the tail lights....they seem to be fine. How do I remove the trunk lining to check connections for the tail lights? I see there are plastic tabs holding things in place back there...do I use a tool to remove these?

[RIP]

Is the high mounted brake light working? Many miss it. Use a putty knife or wide screw stick to pop the plugs out. If all the sockets and bulbs look good, two other ares to keep in mind are the tailight failure monitor mounted in the trunk on the passenger side and the wire bundle that runs next to the drivers side trunk hinge. There's plent of threads on this subject. I think the FAQs thread at the top of the forum talks about it. Cheers!

[AznGunner]

I've now learned that one of the brake light bulbs is out. How do I remove the tail light assembly?? I see that there are 2 screws, but is there anything else I need to remove to get to the bulb?

[RIP]

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm Scroll down to rear lights

[ice745]

Just a note that may be useful for the future and anyone else. I have had a problem like above. The tail-light indicator would come on. I'd turn off the car and use a kali stick I had to hold the brake down. I got out and all the lights were fine. Then when I restarted the brake light warning was gone. This went on for a couple days. Then finally the 3rd brake light went out. I think the indicatior works off an ammeter, but I'm not sure, and it may actually be able to detect a failing light before it actually goes. That would be the only thing that makes sense to me.

[AznGunner]

Ok...so I've replaced both tail light bulbs...the high mount brake light is good....I'm still getting the indicator. What next?

[ice745]

Originally Posted by RIP

...two other ares to keep in mind are the tailight failure monitor mounted in the trunk on the passenger side and the wire bundle that runs next to the drivers side trunk hinge. There's plent of threads on this subject. I think the FAQs thread at the top of the forum talks about it. Cheers!

From a post above...

[cjstew4]

Could be from one of the bulbs in the trunk lid. Sometimes those wire harnesses get bumped, etc when you take off one of the guitar pick-shaped, about 3 in. across covers. I had used that location with that cover off as the place to put a bungy cord hook end. May need to reset the bulb in those sockets and ensure it is twisted and locked in before you put the little, held with velcro cover back on. Although my light works like yours does, the dash light comes on. I believe that it is probably a short with mine and I will remove the tape casing from my harness and inspect for damage and proceed to fix it permanently from there.

If you check that idiot light on the dash, it usually shows like 3 little lines in a row eminating from either the front or back lights of the car which leads you to which end of the car may have a short/bulb out.

[AznGunner]

Here is the latest. After I have already changed the light bulbs in the tail lights, I still get the indicator on the dash only after I hit the brake pedal. I have now discovered that with the headlights off, the brake light does actually light up, but with the headlights on, the left brake light does not light up. This is the bulb with 2 filaments in it...one being brighter when the brake pedal is pressed...the brighter filament does not light up for me in this case. Where else can I look?

[ice745]

Swap your right-hand and left-hand dual-filament bulbs. Do this as a test to see if the problem then switches sides. If it does, then the light is faulty. If it does not; then the socket or wiring to it is fautly.

If the problem did not move, clean the socket. Remove any dirt and what not from it, canned air may be your friend. A straightened paperclip with a small section of paper towel on the end may help you get into crevices. Becareful not to bend the contacts for the bulb if you do use a tool to reach in there.

If cleaning still did not fix the problme, check the wiring. There should be 3 wires going to this socket; white-with-black-stripe, green, and a lighter green "lime green". The Green wire carries voltage when your headlights are turned on or the brake is depressed (for the marker filament), the lime green carries voltage whenever the brake is depressed (regardless of headlights).

Judging from the scenario that it seems to work when the headlights are off, but doesn't seem as bright when they are on; I would say it's the lime green wire that would be the culprit. But better to check them both anyway. Remove the bulb. Use a DMM and have your friend depress the brake pedal. Check for 12 volts between the green and white-with-black-stripe wire; then check for 12 volts between the lime green and white-with-black-stripe wire. Then he can release the brake.

If you see no part of wire that is exposed to use a DMM, try the contacts in the socket, you should be able to eye up what contacts are for what wires. If you can't get to them, you can CAREFULLY shave off some insulation from the wires. Be sure to go slow and carefully, so you don't cut any copper. When you're done, wrap it with electric tape, then to be extra safe, put a small wire tie on each end of the tape to hold it down if the adhesive fails. Do this a few inches back from the socket for 2 reasons. 1st if you do accidently cut the wire, it'll be easier to fix; 2nd so the heat from the bulb doesn't reach the adhesive of the tape easily.

Now for the results. You should have gotten 12 volts in both tests. If you got 0 for either, check the corresponding green wire (whether it was green or lime-green; the black-with-white stripe wire will not be faulty else neither filament would work). You may be able to find where it is broken and fix; or run a new wire over it.

If you did get 12 volts for both; then the problem HAS to be the socket itself or the bulb. If you ruled out the bulb before, then it HAS to be the socket. Double check the cleaning, and see if you can see any blackening of the contacts. This can be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip; or more effectively a can of electric motor cleaner (I got mine from a slot car hobby shop). You can spray it onto a qtip and then rub. If not you may have to have the socket replaced; I do not know how to do that.

[JOET/CAMRY]

I still get the indicator on the dash only after I hit the brake pedal.

This is exactly the problem I am having with my 1989 Camry. When you figure out the problem please post the fix. The break lights light up but the light failure indicator lights up every now and then. not quite sure why.

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY