Wheel Bearing replacement

[Skiffer]

I have a 2000 Grand Prix GTP and it has a bad front wheel bearing that is bad. I was wonder how bad is it to change? And if there is some things I need to watch out for. Any suggestion will be helpfull. I have enough tools plus garage to work on it. Some times I get a little lazy and want to find the easy way out like the dealership. But I have done enough work on cars so this does not bother me to do it. I find it helpfull though to ask other people who have done this for it does help from there experience. And I do think the forums are very helpfull. Thank you

[BNaylor]

Welcome to AF.

If you can do a brake job you should be able to replace the hub. We have a tech procedure posted at our Tips & Maintenance forum along with some feedback.

Click here

[Skiffer]

Well got it done but it was a pain. I ended up takeing the steering link off and the strut bolts and pushing the drive shaft out so I could turn the bearing bolts to the side. This way I could get a impact wrench in there. I round off one of the bolts trying it with out doing this. This made it so much easier. May take a little longer but it does goes better. Thanks for the info.

[BNaylor]

Thanks for the feedback. Just out of curiosity what brand hub did you decide to go with and what axle nut torque value was used?

[eippermx]

I started replacing the hub on the left side of my 99 GT this evening and ran into a couple of issues. In the procedure it calls for a 36 mm socket for the hub nut. I went back into town after I found the 36 mm socket was loose and shallow on the nut and bought a 35 mm deep socket from Auto Zone that fit the nut properly. The second issue are the 3 bolts that hold hub in place. I was able to get the two bottom bolts loosened. They were tough to remove. The 1/2" drive extensions I had were too long. The way I tackled the bottom bolts, I placed a 1/2" drive 13mm socket on the bolt, wormed gently a pigtail past the outer edge of the CV boot and carefully inserted it into the socket. I used an 18" pry bar to break the bolt loose. Then used a 3/8" drive 13 mm deep socket and ratchet wrench to remove the bolt. My problem is how to get at the top hub bolt. Any suggestions how to get at it with out stripping its 13 mm bolt head?

[Skiffer]

I went with the two year warranty bearing and it called for 181 ft. pounds. I did round off one of the hub bolts. Used a half inch socket on it had no problem getting it off.

[eippermx]

Figured out my problem with the top bolt on the hub. Pushing the axle back until it stops gave me the room I needed to place a 3/8" drive 13 mm six point deep socket, 6" extension and a ratchet wrench with an 18" handle on the head of the bolt. When I wasn't able to crack the bolt loose, I used my propane torch to apply heat at the end of the bolt for about 15-30 seconds or so. Then it cracked loose and I was on my way to replacing the hub. Funny thing happened on the passenger side when I replaced its hub. I used the 3/8" drive 13 mm deep socket and a ratchet wrench with an 18" handle on the bottom hub bolts and they cracked loose with out having to use heat. I used the extension on the top bolt and again I didn't need heat. Changing the hubs took the vibration out of the steering wheel. Now I just need to see if my mileage improves after the hub(s) swap. BTW in my case I used the Dynapak branded hubs from Autozone. Skiffer, great thread.

[Langning]

Last year I did both my front hubs (01 GT) with no complication. To get the top bolt off, the trick is to turn the wheel slightly outward and place the extension from the front-side of strut/car.

I used a 1/2-drive 6-pt 13mm socket+extension+18" breaker bar, the bolts came loss easily... Also I have the habit of soaking bolts with PBBlaster for a few minutes...

[fst100]

sorry to threadjack, but im in the process of replacing my worn front driver-side wheel bearing-has some play on it. after i do the replacement, is a wheel alignment recommended afterwards?

[guitarfish]

Do you have to get an alignment? No. Should you? Your call. I don't normally get alignments after bearing changes, and I've done quite a few. I usually go 50K miles between alignments (mostly highway miles), and looking at the wear on my tires, it never seems to be out much anyway.

[xs03mich]

No just change the bearing and go.

[fst100]

ok, i skimmed ovwer the instructions in the link above, but wasnt certain if removing the strut was necessary, thats why i asked if an alignment is needed, but since the strut isnt needed to be removed then im happy :-) thanks guys

[xs03mich]

Yes leave the strut alone...do not forget the pry bar for leverage. good luck.

[Niq]

For what it’s worth, the dealership told me my left front hub is going out. 42k miles I am pretty sure he’s right. He quoted me $440, to replace it. Thats a lot of money I know. According to him, it carry’s a GM lifetime warranty. Ball park, how much is it costing you guys to DIY it?

[guitarfish]

A quality BCA bearing runs about $180, and you can get others for less, I just don't know how long those would last.

That's all you need, aside from the tools.