99 Camaro brakes and rotors

[htb4e]

I am about to change the brakes and rotors on my sons 99 camaro. Are there any tricks or problem I should know.? Do you have to remove the grease cap to get the rotor off?

[ikeyballz]

front? back? the front rotors will come off easier then the back.. for mine, i was able to remove the front after you remove the caliper. make sure you hang it up tho, so the brake lines dont get kinked/ripped..

the back is harder (seems harder, i never tried) because of the E_brake line connected to it.

[blindeyed]

Originally Posted by ikeyballz

front? back? the front rotors will come off easier then the back.. for mine, i was able to remove the front after you remove the caliper. make sure you hang it up tho, so the brake lines dont get kinked/ripped..

the back is harder (seems harder, i never tried) because of the E_brake line connected to it.

You gotta remember that the 98-02's are different than the 93-97's.. so unless you swapped yours out for the newer style, it might be less difficult.


From what I've heard the newer ones that you've got, htb4e, are very simple due to the design. I believe the bracket stays in place, and all you have to do is unbolt to the bolts holding on the caliper. Lift it off, remove pads, and replace with new ones. The rears are almost identical, so there's not much more thats different.

Edit: that's if you were just changing the pads. If you're changing the rotors as well than there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket onto the backside of the spindle. You're going to have to remove those as well to get the whole caliper assembly off. Make sure you get the correct rear rotors as well, because the rear rotors have drum brakes built into them and they use the inside of the back rotor as part of the assembly. So just make sure you have a good size hollow hole in your back rotors. Should be big enough to fit your fist in.


I'm sure someone whose had more experience with them will chime in.

[Mr. Luos]

^^^Correct.

Remove caliper. Bolts are metric. 15mm and 18mm depending on front or back if I recall correctly.
Once caliper is removed...rotor will come right off...as long as the e-brake isn't engaged.

[wrightz28]

I'm not sure if this applies or not, but if your e-brake is a ratcheting type, and the caliper piston slowly threads out as the pads wear, logically it needs to be threaded back in with the correct adapter.

[philly rs]

its simple and easy, shouldnt even take u long at all. luos gave u everything u need...are u gonna go with stock stuff or are u going sloted and drilled??

[Mr. Luos]

Stock rotors > slotted/drilled rotors

[philly rs]

i have heard that b4....what about those gm ones that are the upgrade for the vetts?

[Mr. Luos]

Not sure.

All I know...I don't want holes or slots lowering the amount of contact patch the pads use to stop.

[giddyup50]

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Not sure.

All I know...I don't want holes or slots lowering the amount of contact patch the pads use to stop.

True...however, as I'm sure you know Luos, with the holes and slots the brakes stay cooler and also helps keep them from warping. I will admit that most of us don't race our cars every week (at the track) and we don't really need those kinds of rotors. I know if I ever had to do any hard braking I would let off the pedal just alittle to help cool the brakes, unless I really had to stop right then and there (emergency). I think that the performance brakes with the holes and slots are a great upgrade.

But then again, this is coming from a 87-93 Mustang fan. Remember those cars came with basically the same brakes a an Esocort (GOD HELP US ALL)!!

[goldz28]

When I had my brakes done I got the slotted rotors put on. I was told that the rotors w/ holes tend to crack between the holes if they get to hot. I went with power slots.

[Mr. Luos]

Originally Posted by giddyup50

True...however, as I'm sure you know Luos, with the holes and slots the brakes stay cooler and also helps keep them from warping. I will admit that most of us don't race our cars every week (at the track) and we don't really need those kinds of rotors. I know if I ever had to do any hard braking I would let off the pedal just alittle to help cool the brakes, unless I really had to stop right then and there (emergency). I think that the performance brakes with the holes and slots are a great upgrade.

Newer cars have such great cooling as it is...they don't help in most cases. Road racing I can see it for, but even for most cars at the drag strip won't benefit from them.

If you want stopping power...upgrade pads, lines, and fluid.

[giddyup50]

I agree, when I had my 92 5.0, I turned the rotors and upgraded the pads to racing or performance pads. Like I said, most of us are not racing at the track every week so usually the slotted/drilled rotors are not necesarry. But you have to agree that they are capable of having more stoping power.

[Mr. Luos]

Originally Posted by giddyup50

But you have to agree that they are capable of having more stoping power.

I don't...sorta.

Having to stop hard once...give me the best contact patch available.
Having to stop hard several times in a row...give me the slotted rotors.

Drilled...stay away from those. They crack.

[goldz28]

http://www.powerslot.com/