Timing belt Replacement writeup?

[rusted]

91 DX

I'm looking ahead to a timing belt replacement.

Is there a good writeup on this job? I have the Chilton's Fine Manual but prefer to get multiple sources.

Any gotcha's I should know about now? Special tools needed? Aprox hours?

Assume I need to do a valve adjust as well.

Replace the water pump as well, just to be sure?

Specific yea/nah on parts suppliers?

[CRXperiment]

Heres a site for the official Helms manual for a 91 CRX. I would highly recommend downloading this and using it for your tbelt job.

http://hondatech.info/search/91/crx//

[4G4D Store]

From the timing belts I've done, the hardest part is always getting the crank bolt out to remove the crank pulley - I recommend an air gun with at least 400ft lbs of torque, that should take it right off, then your only problem after that is getting your hands in everywhere to remove all the timing belt cover bolts and stuff. I'm assuming the motor is still in the car. Also, be careful when tightening the bolts for the water pump, then don't need to be torqued down much - I've heard of them stripping easy (hint hint). Hope this helps.

[rusted]

Originally Posted by 4G4D Store

the hardest part is always getting the crank bolt out to remove the crank pulley

Thanks... I figured that crank bolt was going to be an issue...

[CRXperiment]

Originally Posted by rusted

Thanks... I figured that crank bolt was going to be an issue...

Hit it with some liquid wrench or pb blaster and let it sit before hitting it with an air gun. If you still can't get it off, you can always just take it to a friendly shop and have them bust it off, it may or may not cost you.

[FuLL BLown STD]

i dunno how u ppl have issues with these crank bolts..ive never had a problem with um..lil elbow grease girls

[rusted]

Is the crank bolt socket special [deep, thinwall, etc] or just standard impact?

Size?

[Tony]

Well the interesting part on the crank bolt if you don't have air is holding the damn motor still. Several creative solutions for this depending on the type of pulley you have. The later motors take a special socket to hold the pulley, the older ones you can put a couple bolts in the holes and get a long bar to stuff between them to hold it. Usually if I can keep it from turning, my 1/2" breaker bar breaks it right loose.

[Killa_CRX]

There's actually a special service tool that engages the flywheel and locks the motor from turning... Snap-On makes one for Honda, I believe.

[rusted]

Originally Posted by Killa_CRX

There's actually a special service tool that engages the flywheel and locks the motor from turning... Snap-On makes one for Honda, I believe.

Which I'd rather avoid buying....given I'll use it once...

I'm talking a 91 DX, and hope that air will do the job.

I was worried it was some weird [say] 20 mm deep socket. The manual page I see says it's a 14x1.25 bolt. Is that correct? It sounds way too small...

[Killa_CRX]

Originally Posted by rusted

Which I'd rather avoid buying....given I'll use it once...

I'm talking a 91 DX, and hope that air will do the job.

I was worried it was some weird [say] 20 mm deep socket. The manual page I see says it's a 14x1.25 bolt. Is that correct? It sounds way too small...

14x1.25 is the bolt measurements.... not the size socket you use to take it off...

If you have an impact, the bolt head size is 17mm... you can use a 17mm deep or shallow socket.. doesn't matter..... without the tool to hold the flywheel, or an impact wrench, you wont be able to remove the bolt.

[rusted]

Originally Posted by Killa_CRX

14x1.25 is the bolt measurements.... not the size socket you use to take it off...

Doh, I knew that, honest.... See, the screw charts for laptop assembly say things like "T4x0.5" which is a #4 Torx of that length... and I got into that mindset..

Since it looks like the crank bolt is the first major step; if our air wrench won't do it, we can stop and regroup.

BTW, I know of another technique for holding an engine still, told to me by an A&P {aircraft mechanic}. Set a cylinder on its compression stroke. Snake in 0.25" manila rope, not letting go of the far end, please. Rotate to raise piston & compress rope, holding engine. Break bolt loose, back off, pull rope out. Never tried it, however.

[Killa_CRX]

Originally Posted by rusted

BTW, I know of another technique for holding an engine still, told to me by an A&P {aircraft mechanic}. Set a cylinder on its compression stroke. Snake in 0.25" manila rope, not letting go of the far end, please. Rotate to raise piston & compress rope, holding engine. Break bolt loose, back off, pull rope out. Never tried it, however.

That works too, but I wouldn't want to risk getting any of the rope stuck in the cylinder.

[thefooshmeister]

i bought a flywheel holder from jegs to get my crank pulley off..worthless if you ask me..the point you put in between the teeth bent while i was trying to loosed it..i mean seriously shouldnt that be the strongest part of the tool since all the force would be put on it.

[Tony]

Originally Posted by Killa_CRX

14x1.25 is the bolt measurements.... not the size socket you use to take it off...

If you have an impact, the bolt head size is 17mm... you can use a 17mm deep or shallow socket.. doesn't matter..... without the tool to hold the flywheel, or an impact wrench, you wont be able to remove the bolt.

He is correct on the bolt, a 17mm is the size you need. But as for the tool to hold the flywheel, you are incorrect. I never once used a tool to hold the flywheel to get the bolt loose. I have tried holding the flywheel before, but had no luck in doing that. Air is the easiest way to do it if you have enough pressure behind the gun and its a big enough gun.