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#1
03-30-2007, 08:21 PM
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rear lower control arm ball joint
1995 lesabre custom 3.8 SI 130K
last night as i was turning left my rear right lower control arm ball joint snaped. i tried todat to remove the ball joint and it didnt budge. i need to know if i have to buy the whole control arm or is there an easier method for removing broken ball joints? Pepboys said 26 for the joint, 80 for install, 65 for alignment. i think thats bullshit and not looking foward to paying it.
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GT2560r's, Nismo 615cc, ARP Head Studs, UD Pulley, SouthBend Stage5 clutch, 60mm TB's, Ash-spec Tune, Specialty Z 3" DPs, HKS intake, Energy Suspension, z1 Drive Shaft,E-fan, Port/Polished heads, AMS Manifolds, HKS SSQV BOVs, Howe Radiator, RPS segmented LW flywheel, UR OverDrive waterpump pulley, Billion Thermo, z1 silicone hoses, Stillen gauge pod w/autometers, D&S rotors all around 
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#2
03-31-2007, 09:19 AM
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Re: rear lower control arm ball joint
You do not need an alignment when done, but you will spend more time, you already have, than the 80 is worth. Look at this link. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d8015efd7.jsp
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#3
04-01-2007, 01:41 PM
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Re: rear lower control arm ball joint
awesome, i just used two jacks and a hammer, i raised the car than set in on the ball joint with the jack under it using the weight of the car to help press it in, took a few hours...
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GT2560r's, Nismo 615cc, ARP Head Studs, UD Pulley, SouthBend Stage5 clutch, 60mm TB's, Ash-spec Tune, Specialty Z 3" DPs, HKS intake, Energy Suspension, z1 Drive Shaft,E-fan, Port/Polished heads, AMS Manifolds, HKS SSQV BOVs, Howe Radiator, RPS segmented LW flywheel, UR OverDrive waterpump pulley, Billion Thermo, z1 silicone hoses, Stillen gauge pod w/autometers, D&S rotors all around
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