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#1
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removing bell housing bolts
I’m attempting to R&R the clutch/pressure plate package on a 91 2wd short bed. The truck’s supported on jack stands. The tranny’s free except for the top two bell housing bolts. Working over the fender I was able to loosen the passenger side bolt but I’m not able to get a wrench on the driver side bolt. The Haynes manual does not point to a special procedure to remove these two bolts. And once out, getting them back in seems near impossible. What am I missing? I’m considering cutting two access holes thru the firewall.
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#2
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
I am not actually familiar with your application but on other vehicles, I have found that lowering the tailshaft too soon closes this gap and causes the problem you describe. Perhaps this is the case here? ???
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#3
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
Several loong extensions and a flex joint on the socket works just fine.
Exactly what any tranny guy uses, no "special" tools.
__________________
84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, Chevys, AP x-over, BudBuilt x-member, 2" drv trn lift, 36" TSLs, 30 spline Longs 80 something p/u - Buick 231 V6/TH-350 trans, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, dual batts, dual tanks ... 89 4Runner - stock 2000 Isuzu Trooper + 2010 Sonata |
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#4
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
thanks for the reply. I ended up cutting two 1 inch access holes thru the firewall.
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#5
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
Well that's an extreme way of doing it
I just yanked my G54 tranny last night to swap in a W56, extensions worked for me.
__________________
84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, Chevys, AP x-over, BudBuilt x-member, 2" drv trn lift, 36" TSLs, 30 spline Longs 80 something p/u - Buick 231 V6/TH-350 trans, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, dual batts, dual tanks ... 89 4Runner - stock 2000 Isuzu Trooper + 2010 Sonata |
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#6
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
Quote:
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#7
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Re: removing bell housing bolts
WOW! You guys are serious. I hope you put some anti-seize lube on the bolts when you put it all back together. I had the same difficulty (though didn't cut through my chassis, just used brute force and multiple u-joints on my tools) when I replaced my '87 clutch the first time, and the second time it came apart very easily because of the lube.
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