Broken Spark Plug in Engine

rjeffery · #1 03-20-2007, 06:10 PM

I was replacing my spark plugs today, and I broke a plug off in the engine. I torqued up on it too much while installing a new one, and it broke off right below the hex on the plug. What is the best thing to do to get the rest of the plug out? I'm thinking pull the head off and try to drill it and use an easy-out. The only problem with that, is that the only part for the easy-out to bite is the metal part in the center of the plug, and that is pretty small.

Any suggestions are appreciated, as I feel like a complete idiot right now.

chuck16 · #2 03-21-2007, 12:31 AM

I did that when I changed the plugs on my truck. Luckily it just broke the porcelain so I was able to get the socket on to what was left and remove what was left in the engine. Did you actually break the metal part that you put the socket on? Damn man what did you use to torque them in with? I never use a torque wrench, just however tight my arms could can get them.

Good luck...

MT-2500 · #3 03-21-2007, 10:13 AM

If it broke off from over torque you may have trouble getting it out.
A plain old tapered easy out will not work good on something like that.
Snap on and some tool co make special easy outs.
But you have to drill to easy out size and work with care.
A easy out can break off and then you have bigger problems.
If you do not have a good easy out set or experience on something like that.
It may be better to take it to a good repair shop and have them do it.
MT

wrparks · #4 03-21-2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck16

I never use a torque wrench, just however tight my arms could can get them.
Good luck...

Holy crap, and you've only broken one? For your plugs sake, I pray you use a socket with a 4 inch handle.

I typically try to use a torque wrench, but if I don't have one handy I think the rule is finger tight (yes I know that can be a pain to actually do) then 1/4 (1/2 maybe) of a turn.

OP, check to see what is broken. I'd bet it's just the porcelin and the head of the plug is still there so you can still use the socket.

EDIT: Just reread your post, sounds like your pretty sure more than the porcelin is broken. My advice at this point is to carry it to a shop. Good luck.

rjeffery · #5 03-21-2007, 11:30 AM

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the hex part that you put the socket on broke off, so more than the porcelin is broken. I will start calling around some shops today to see what the damage will be, because I don't want to go drilling on it myself as knock a bunch of into the cylinder.

Can any shop work on this sort of thing, or am I better off taking it to a dealer (and paying dealer prices) to make sure it is done right?

MT-2500 · #6 03-21-2007, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjeffery

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the hex part that you put the socket on broke off, so more than the porcelin is broken. I will start calling around some shops today to see what the damage will be, because I don't want to go drilling on it myself as knock a bunch of into the cylinder.

Can any shop work on this sort of thing, or am I better off taking it to a dealer (and paying dealer prices) to make sure it is done right?

Good Repair shop or Dealer is the key word.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.

spackelman · #7 03-21-2007, 01:44 PM

What brand of plug was it?

masapell · #8 03-21-2007, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spackelman

What brand of plug was it?

So we know what not to buy, huh?

rjeffery · #9 03-21-2007, 03:00 PM

AC Delco Professional Iridium Plugs from Oreilly's

spackelman · #10 03-21-2007, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjeffery

AC Delco Professional Iridium Plugs from Oreilly's

I would love to see some pics of the plug. Never heard of this before.

Do you think the plug was crossed-threaded as it was going in?

BlenderWizard · #11 03-21-2007, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck16

I did that when I changed the plugs on my truck. Luckily it just broke the porcelain so I was able to get the socket on to what was left and remove what was left in the engine. Did you actually break the metal part that you put the socket on? Damn man what did you use to torque them in with? I never use a torque wrench, just however tight my arms could can get them.

Good luck...

Yeah, I run them in snug with a ratchet, and then grip the head of the ratchet and tighten them up like that. That keeps you from being able to put very much torque at all on them, but they are very well seated.

ontheedge02 · #12 03-21-2007, 11:20 PM

I hate to say it, but I can relate. I did the same thing taking plugs out of an older Sunbird with an aluminum head. First of all, I didn't think it was possible. I was sure surprised to see everything but the threads. I learned to always use anti-seize and only work with plugs on a cold engine.

What I did:
I took it to a dealer and they wanted to replace the head for $1,700 (Early 90's money). I passed on that, and trailered it to a mechanic friend outside the Metro area and he pulled the head and was able to cut out the rest of the plug out with a hacksaw blade and chisel out the pieces without ruining the threads. So, for $300 he removed the plug, replaced the head gasket (which it needed anyways), spark plugs, and timing belt. I think I still owe him for that one.

Good Luck,

rjeffery · #13 03-22-2007, 08:38 AM

I dont think the plug was cross threadded, but it did break in an odd place. I will upload a pic of the plug soon.

I took it to a local shop, and the guy is working on it right now, trying to pull it out with an extractor. I should be getting it back today, so hopefully all goes well. I will post back results.

masapell · #14 03-22-2007, 10:22 AM

Definitely keep us posted!

On a bit of a different subject, one time I decided to change a pressure gauge on a York 300 ton chiller one SUMMER day (in Texas!). Well, what I did not know was that the tube that it was connected to had a crack in the threads. So, low and behold, I attempt to take the gauge off and the whole tube breaks, leaving the threaded end in the chill water line. Needless to say, I am in a bit of a panic since I have a building full of people and no easy-out to get it out. Luckily, I had a tech a few blocks away who came over and in about 30 minutes had it out. Fortunately, no one noticed that the air was shut off for about 45 minutes. Well, I definitely put that in the "don't ever try that again" category.

wrparks · #15 03-22-2007, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ontheedge02

I hate to say it, but I can relate. I did the same thing taking plugs out of an older Sunbird with an aluminum head. First of all, I didn't think it was possible. I was sure surprised to see everything but the threads. I learned to always use anti-seize and only work with plugs on a cold engine.

We've all done something like this. Though in your case, with the aluminum head, I would not have expected the plug to break. Maybe the threads get stripped, but not the plug to break. Not sure if you got lucky or not to tell you the truth. Sucks either way.

I hear different stories about the anti sieze stuff. If you follow the old rules and change the plugs more often, I never use it. But with 100,000 mile plugs, it makes me worry a bit about them getting stuck that's for sure.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD