95 TSP battery drain/ electrical?

[kcpete]

My 95 TSP, 3.1 would not start. I jumped it and drove it to Autozone. They check it and said it was the alternator. After replacing the alt, and making sure the battery was charged the van still was not volting correctly. It read about 11 max on guage. I though letting it run and driving the alt would bring it up to 14 abouts. It only starting draining lower! I replaced this battery with another last night and didn't get anything to come. Every thing was dead. I know this battery is good!

The other issue that has happened is the only way to get the interior lights off was to pull the "csty" fuse.

Can I -please have some help. I need to get it back on the road for my son to go back to school. I want somewhere to start at this evening.

[LMP]

First I'd check that the voltage feed to the alternator is there.
pink/white stripe wire comes live when the key is turned to ON. No need to run the engine. Problem with ignition switch is a possible cause.
heavy gauge RED charging wire must be HOT (12 v) all the time, even at key OFF.
www.avigex.ca/xport/charging.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/chargingsystem.jpg

Check for good contact at starter where RED wire connects through fusible link H. Check fusible link H.
www.avigex.ca/xport/fusiblelinkh.jpg

[kcpete]

Would fuse link H show any visual sign such as burnt, or do I just go by lack of voltage not there to determine bad? My son and wife had both said that had smelled a burnt odor before all of this. Makes me wonder if I gave up a fairly good alternator.

[LMP]

Originally Posted by kcpete

...Makes me wonder if I gave up a fairly good alternator.

You would not be the first, but that does not help either. However, if alternator diodes had blown shorted, they would have indeed blown the fusible link.
What is the result for the pink-white lead to alternator (KEY ON)? If you have voltage, run engine and meausre voltage at alternator output (red wire)(expect 14.2 -- 14.8V)

ABout the fusible link, yes measure voltage at red wire on alternator (engine not running) : If no voltage, you can run temporarily a solid wire between this alternator connector directly to the red palstic covered main post near the power steering booster (easier to reach than the starter),and then run the engine and measure voltage .

[kcpete]

I just have finished what I could tonite. LMP, I did see a fuselink that was severed and charred. It is a single wire off starter solenoid that splits into 2 wires. One of them is broke about 2 inches from connector. Never have worked with one of these before. Can I repair, or would I have to replace all the way from harness up?

It sounds as though you have been right on so far.....WOW! Sometimes good alternators and/or batteries become a victim before right source is discovered. It may just get better!

[LMP]

OK..from the symptoms you have described, it is more than probable link H (going to alternator) is the blown one. Link H is designed to blow in case the alternator diodes become short, which is a rare failure mode (most of the time, they blow open) . So after all, it is really possible the alternator was shot in the first place, and this has blown the fuseible. In such case, you do not have voltage on the red wire lug at the alternator..and this would definitely identify the problem as it exists now. THen temporarily install a direct solid wire from alternator either to starter (thus bypassing the link) or , more easily, from alternator to main distribution post near the power brake booster, as I suggested above. But you can install a short piece of heavy wire locally in place of the fusible link. THe "sense" (the second smaller red wire) wire does not exist on all models, but if you have it, in must be tied to the bypass wire too.


If this reestablihes normal operation voltage when running engine, then you are through, and you have time to eventually install a new fusible link. It would not be necessary to go for exact replacement.. depending on the extent of wire bundle they might want to sell, but this is next step....just tell what happens now.

[kcpete]

Here is somewhat where I am now. Since it rained Tues, I was not able to get out so gave it a shot tonite. I am not good on electrical and therefore was like a deer in high lights with your instructions. First of all, I went ahead and connected the broken link at solenoid. I went to start the darn thing and nothing. I volt metered(needle not digital) from the battery lug of the alt and it read about 13. The intriquing part though is that I heard a pop from it while doing it. Also I had no pink/wht wire to my alt.

The alt only has the heavy batt wire on one nut and a plugin with a red and brown wire on the othersid. The plug does not make it easy to probe with my meter for a reading, let alone work in behind intake. However just by mistake I moved wires leading to the main post by brake booster and noticed lights inside on. The connection at this post was very loose. I tighten and got the van to start. The problem is that the only way to get my interior lights off is to again, pull CSTY fuse! If I don't they stay lit, or may come back on. The other thing is that the volt guage is reading about 15. Is this too high? Help with the interior light thing.

Now that I have it running, if you can lead me to where the pink/wht wire is for alt and how to get a reading off plugin on alt, this will help. The scheme you gave shows it but I don't find it. Thank LMP

[kcpete]

All is good, voltage is where it should be. And van starts every time. I finally solved the interior light problem too with your added help. I removed all under dash panels, and the front cover to check the interior light switch but it was good. After searching wires I happened to notice wires that were caught between emergency brake. Repaired them and no more lights staying on.

[LMP]

OK great. I'm a little late but 15V is OK..I also find it a little high, but of no concern. I've read more than that. I've noticed the voltage is high just after start but tapers down after a few minutes.