need some wiring help please!!!

[slow_99integra]

ok so here is the problem, my buddy's father has a 1990 civic hatch. It has a cage in it gutted, race ready. we are all planning on doin endurance racin in it. so here's what i need....

engine d15b2

1. wiring diagram for the ecu. what wires go to what.
2. directions for a push start ingnition. this is a must have. we need to be able to start it with out the use of a key.
3. toggle switch the headlights, fuel pump, and have a push button for the brake lights (when the brake pedal gets pushed no lights, when you push the button brake lights)

Please help!

[CRXperiment]

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html

http://www.mobstyle.com/crx/ecu_pinouts2.asp

BTW, I hope your joking about doing endurance racing with a d15b2.

[slow_99integra]

Originally Posted by CRXperiment

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html

http://www.mobstyle.com/crx/ecu_pinouts2.asp

BTW, I hope your joking about doing endurance racing with a d15b2.

thanks bro. but no im serious about it. he wants to be in the lowest non modded class. i told him to get a b18c5, but then thats a different class

[CRXperiment]

Originally Posted by slow_99integra

thanks bro. but no im serious about it. he wants to be in the lowest non modded class. i told him to get a b18c5, but then thats a different class

He should at least go with an A6 (if it fits with the class). I wouldn't use the B2 unless your up against like golf carts or fiats or something.

[FrodoGT]

Lol golf carts

[Tony]

Yea, I would go with an A6 if you can. As for the ignition, does it still have the factory ignition switch? If so, this is the easy way to do your ignition and starter. You will need to take the panels off the steering column and you should be able to see the back of the ignition switch. On the back of the switch is either 1 or 2 small phillip head screws, take them out and you will have the main part of the ignition switch, should have a slot in the middle of it that you can turn.

Get you a test light and find out which one is the hot wire while the key is OFF. When you find that, turn the Key to ON and find out what all wires get power, those are the ones you are gonna need hooked up to your switch. Now, the starter wire is usually a thicker guage wire, so look for one you haven't used yet and get your test light ready on it(you can remove your main fuse as well to keep the motor from actually starting) and try to start the car. This should find your starter wire, or if you want, get you some thick gauge wire and run a wire all the way to your starter and plug it in with the spade(not one of the bolt on wires, its the smallest wire on the starter). Then just run you a hot wire to the other side of your switch and you have you a starter button.

I just ran all mine through the old ignition switch after I found out what wires are what, I just cut them, soldered in my wires and switches and it works wonders. I also went to a salvage yard and jacked a 4th gen Engine Harness plug from under the hood and wired everything through the plug and put all my switches in a "Project Box"(you can pick one up at Radio Shack) and just bolted it in the car. This way if I end up leaving the car someplace I'm afraid someone is gonna mess with it, I can just unbolt the box and unplug it and no one is gonna mess with it. I used the 4th gen Engine plug because its easy to unpin those plugs and repin them to your likings.