Broken hearted me

[twistd]

Hello there,
I am a very newbie to the forum and to my 94' Mitsubishi 3000GT SL. Long story short, I used to be a chevy girl until I saw this car on craigslist. I had to have it! I love it but (here it comes)! I have put alot of $ into it already. Yesterday my check engine light came on and stayed on, can't feel any difference, but it's my baby. So I took it to a shop and they hooked it up for free. The codes were 43 (EGR temp sensor) and 62 (induction con somethig valve position sensor) but he would have to charge me for more diagnostics. Then he called me later and said by the way your timing belt is making noise so I check it and it is loose and needs to be replaced. He will do this for $700.00 but this will not fix the check engine light problem. I am heart broken! I am a single mom on a tight budget. And yes it is an every day driven car. I drive 40 miles to and from work. Can you help me out with these codes? Sorry it's so long!


Next time, please start a thread. Instead of doing private messages.

a) egr, to be 100% honest with you, it doesn't affect your car's driveability. If you are on a tight budget, and can't afford pointless stuff. Don't fix it. I actually am removing mine from my car soon. It's a system that is added there to cut down a tad on pollution. Bottom line, you don't need it, it doesn't hurt your car if it's broken. The only issue is passing emissions.

b) Timing belt is loose. We have a hydraulic tensioner. So when the car is parked, engine off...the timing belt is supposed to be loose. Now, it is supposed to be changed every 60k/ 5 years. And if it isn't changed and snaps, you are looking at costly repairs. However, if it has been replaced in the last 60k miles, or 5 years, ignore the mechanic...he either isn't familiar with these cars, or trying to get money out of you.

c) To be 100% honest, I've never heard the other code before. Please start a thread, that way everybody can see the problem and answer if they know the answer. I'll do some research when I have the time.


Hope that helps.__________________
96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.

[Linebckr49]

[twistd]

Originally Posted by twistd

Hello there,
I am a very newbie to the forum and to my 94' Mitsubishi 3000GT SL. Long story short, I used to be a chevy girl until I saw this car on craigslist. I had to have it! I love it but (here it comes)! I have put alot of $ into it already. Yesterday my check engine light came on and stayed on, can't feel any difference, but it's my baby. So I took it to a shop and they hooked it up for free. The codes were 43 (EGR temp sensor) and 62 (induction con somethig valve position sensor) but he would have to charge me for more diagnostics. Then he called me later and said by the way your timing belt is making noise so I check it and it is loose and needs to be replaced. He will do this for $700.00 but this will not fix the check engine light problem. I am heart broken! I am a single mom on a tight budget. And yes it is an every day driven car. I drive 40 miles to and from work. Can you help me out with these codes? Sorry it's so long!


Next time, please start a thread. Instead of doing private messages.

a) egr, to be 100% honest with you, it doesn't affect your car's driveability. If you are on a tight budget, and can't afford pointless stuff. Don't fix it. I actually am removing mine from my car soon. It's a system that is added there to cut down a tad on pollution. Bottom line, you don't need it, it doesn't hurt your car if it's broken. The only issue is passing emissions.

b) Timing belt is loose. We have a hydraulic tensioner. So when the car is parked, engine off...the timing belt is supposed to be loose. Now, it is supposed to be changed every 60k/ 5 years. And if it isn't changed and snaps, you are looking at costly repairs. However, if it has been replaced in the last 60k miles, or 5 years, ignore the mechanic...he either isn't familiar with these cars, or trying to get money out of you.

c) To be 100% honest, I've never heard the other code before. Please start a thread, that way everybody can see the problem and answer if they know the answer. I'll do some research when I have the time.


Hope that helps.__________________
96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.

Thank you for the advice! I bought this car in December, the guy I got if from said he did not drive it much because it got him in trouble. I have no history on it. That being said the timing belt may have never been changed. Oh and it has 118,000 miles on it. I call her Pearl

[twistd]

You are all great! Maybe I can get somewhere now. I have built a few Hot Rods all Chevy's I even still have the last 1 I built 74'SS El Camino w/ 350 stroker (383), 5 miles to the gallon @$3.00 per gallon she's parked in back on blocks.
My point is I do know about cars but when I look under my 3000GT hood its all foreign to me . So can I change my own timing belt? Does anyone want to help me? I live in San Diego CA. Or is this something a shop has to do?

[Polygon]

If you've done a timing belt before and you're comfortable working on cars it shouldn't be a problem to do yourself. I would suggest getting some cam lockers to keep them from moving when you're changing the belt. It just is difficult because it's a tight area to work in.

[Hotshot8792]

your other code that was thrown, VICS, its a motor on the backside of your upper intake manifold that controls the path of your air in the intake manifold. It allows you to have long runners in low rpms giving you more torque, and switches at a certain rpm level to give you short runners at higher rpms for max hp. If its broken it won't hurt drivability. If its stuck in one position, you'll be giving up the benefits of the other position. Look on the back driver's side of the intake manifold, you will see where two wiring harnesses plug in. Thats where the motor is.

[AutostradaVR4]

welcome to the forum.

most people on here will say the same thing, dont listen to what most mechanics and dealerships say, unless they specialize in the 3/s.

if your unsure if the 120k service have been done and the previous owner didnt mention it, it most likely has not. since your 2k away from your 120k mark, you should plan for it in the near future. Theres everything youll need to know about it in the FAQ section, including what parts youll need, what they cost, and how to perform it. I recommend reading the FAQ entirely, as there is lots of great info for new owners.

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by Hotshot8792

your other code that was thrown, VICS, its a motor on the backside of your upper intake manifold that controls the path of your air in the intake manifold. It allows you to have long runners in low rpms giving you more torque, and switches at a certain rpm level to give you short runners at higher rpms for max hp. If its broken it won't hurt drivability. If its stuck in one position, you'll be giving up the benefits of the other position. Look on the back driver's side of the intake manifold, you will see where two wiring harnesses plug in. Thats where the motor is.

its actually on the driver side of the intake plenum, on the exact opposite side from the throttle body.

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by Polygon

If you've done a timing belt before and you're comfortable working on cars it shouldn't be a problem to do yourself. I would suggest getting some cam lockers to keep them from moving when you're changing the belt. It just is difficult because it's a tight area to work in.

i agree, but ONLY if she's done a DOHC timing belt before. i say this b/c experience with V8s means nothing compared to working on our cars. the DOHC timing belt is SOOO sensitive, and it is very critical that you do it right, and it is very easy to mess up.

there's a guy who lives near me, he just picked up a 93 base DOHC, and he's built a bunch of LS1 engines, so he figures this DOHC 3S engine would be cake. well he finds that he has to line up all the marks on the cam gears and crank, so he does so. then he goes to crank the engine over and nothing. turns out, there is ZERO compression in all cylinders. he bent ALL intake valves because he just kept turning the cam gears until the marks lined up. he didn't know that these cars have interference engines, which means that the valves can come in contact with each other and/or the pistons if timing is far enough off.

i'm not trying to discourage or discredit you, i'm just saying its very tricky. if you want to do it, i recommend having someone there to check your work who knows these cars very well. there are plenty of people in the Southern California area that know these cars. check out www.socal3s.com.

[twistd]

I have to agree V8 chevys are cake the newest one I've worked on is a 74'.
My GT scares me when I open the hood.

To respond to this comment
"Timing belt is loose. We have a hydraulic tensioner. So when the car is parked, engine off...the timing belt is supposed to be loose."
I called the shop and yes it was parked engine off.
I will check with SoCal3s and see if they know where I can get a second opinion on my timing belt.
I am going to check the connectors on the inductive con something valve position sensor code 62.
I am so glad I found this forum you all rock! Anything anyone has to say I am all ears and I want to learn about my car Pearl!

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by Linebckr49

i agree, but ONLY if she's done a DOHC timing belt before. i say this b/c experience with V8s means nothing compared to working on our cars. the DOHC timing belt is SOOO sensitive, and it is very critical that you do it right, and it is very easy to mess up.

there's a guy who lives near me, he just picked up a 93 base DOHC, and he's built a bunch of LS1 engines, so he figures this DOHC 3S engine would be cake. well he finds that he has to line up all the marks on the cam gears and crank, so he does so. then he goes to crank the engine over and nothing. turns out, there is ZERO compression in all cylinders. he bent ALL intake valves because he just kept turning the cam gears until the marks lined up. he didn't know that these cars have interference engines, which means that the valves can come in contact with each other and/or the pistons if timing is far enough off.

i'm not trying to discourage or discredit you, i'm just saying its very tricky. if you want to do it, i recommend having someone there to check your work who knows these cars very well. there are plenty of people in the Southern California area that know these cars. check out www.socal3s.com.

Yeah, but if you put on the cam lockers before you take off the belt you shouldn't have to worry about that. You're right though, it is much different than working on V8s. After all, the cam is in the block.

[Nesryn]

I would be careful doing something like the timing belt if you're not use to your way around the 3s engine bay. If you mess up you'll bend all your valves, and then thats big bucks and lots of work. It would prolly be better to take it to someone who knows these cars, and then take some time to learn about them before doing something big like that.

[Stealthee]

I have been around cars my entire life. First time I attempted doing a t belt on a DOHC 3s I was also doing a head swap. (Oh what fun that was) The head swap took some time because of not being used to some things but it went pretty smooth. When it came time to set up cam timing I was cussing, yelling, throwing tools etc. Its not for the weak hearted. I could easily do it now having messed with 3s's and now DSM's more. But the first time be prepared to boil your blood.

[Nesryn]

QFT. Our cars suck to work on 'cause there's no room in the damn engine bay. I had to rebuild the engine on my SL and seriously thought I was going to hang myself. I swear I almost put a wrench through the windshield. Nothing ever seems to go as easily as you think it will...

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by Polygon

Yeah, but if you put on the cam lockers before you take off the belt you shouldn't have to worry about that. You're right though, it is much different than working on V8s. After all, the cam is in the block.

cam lockers FTW! after having done about 6 timing belt jobs, i finally got some cam lockers the other day.

setting the cams in time isn't the hardest part. the HARDEST part AND the most CRITICAL is setting the tension on the tensioner pulley. if you've never done it before, good luck. someone will have to explain it well to you b/c the service manual isn't very clear. and you need (not really, but it helps a LOT) that special tensioner tool.