Maxima No start No crank

[rjitzsu]

I've got a 2000 Max.
It's no start, no crank.
Put a starter on it and it started 2 times but now won't start again. Replaced the battery and still no crank.
Anyone have anything similar?
Thanks

[Nahkapohjola]

If starter clicks, your starter, its solenoid and/or supply wiring is nogood. Listen.

If its not starter cabling/connectors fault, then check gear lever brake pedalswitches & inhibit relay. The problems lie in these issues, check page five, clic below

[AvalonJohn]

Have a friend with same problem. Sometimes he turns the key 15 time and nothing at all. No click .... nothing. Then on turn number 16 it starts right up. Sometimes he said he hears a hum and sometime nothing. Took it to the shop and they put in a new starter ..... same problem. I'm thinking loose wire in ignition column or solinoid ? Anyboby know how to fix this ?

AvalonJohn

[Nahkapohjola]

1st measure the voltage at starter while starting. a. If no voltage, no starter will turn... b. If voltage is there even when connected, new starter isnt too great.

a. check issues already mentioned in the link, then change ign sw.

a+b = no rocket science

[91q45a]

I have a 96 I30 with the same symptoms. Put in new starter as the old one was 11 years old and was making whining noises and just needed to be done. Car started perfectly. Then it started with several cranks a day later. I got a 1135 code, change the Crank sensor (ref) which this code is associated with, and still several cranks to start. I never let the starter crank for more then 5 seconds at a time. Now, i get in this morning ( about 30 degress) turn key and i get chug chug nothing. Clean temrinal in bat, perfect 12.4 volts. Nothing again. I also think that may be a fusible link or relay. Where is the inhibtor relay. The only thing i have changed is the stater, could it be possbile the old one drew to much current while dieing and burned i link. I swear i smelled burning plastic a while back, weeks before the starter actually went, but it stater fine all that time. Maybe one or two revolutions was all that was needed.

[Nahkapohjola]

U didnt check the link did u.

The thick hi current starter wires are not fused.

Reman starters do fail and often, swap.

Most nissans rot first from here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/10

[91q45a]

Hi,
I just cleaned that main ground real good. Still nothing. The starter is a week old and although i have used many more revolutions then normal to start this thing, it could not be more then a few months of normal use. I think based on your other comments, and other users who replaced their starters many times without success, something else is bad. How do i remove the inhibor relay and/or ECCS relay. I dont see it. I see ECCS fuses, but not relay. Do u really feel this reman autozone starter is bad already? I dont see how they can stay in business with lifetime warrenies if people are just going to end up bring back bad parts anyway. Does not makes sense. I do here that click, so maybe you are right. All i get is a click.

[Nahkapohjola]

Listen for the location: If the click comes from the starter, then it gets ctrl juice. Very common to have reman starter/alt fail, disasterzone is famous

I guess the component locations differ from I30 to Maxima; check online schemas etc via the link.

Battery may also fail in such way that theres nostart; everythin else works. Even new battery... Inside batt there can be an internal disconnect which opens as the 500Amp starting current heats/disconnects at a problem spot. (Other device current draw is only a fraction)

...how can ?
- '4rd' still cont in buziness.
- 2k Rover fuel pump fail in tst drive (Rover75, 1955-model had two pumps and a toggle switch to disconnect/swap the always failin pump - on the run).
- Volvo T80 still steer like a tractor ... like PV Volvos form 60's
...etc

[91q45a]

It was the stater again. Funny thing the second replacement, made in mexico, seems to spin faster then the first replacement autozone part made in USA. I just hope it was the 1 in a 1000 bad ones. It did shit on their test bench. We tested the new one, and it spun up quick and smooth. Put it in and turned over well. Still have alittle lag in fireup time. I wonder if im losing pressure in the fuel line over night. Once it runs it seems i can shut it down and restart 10 or 20 min later withour excessive cranking. I did change the crank ref sensor, as i had the code, but i think that was erroneous, as nothing really change in that regard. TPS sensor is 600 ohms closed and 4200 ohms at WOT. That is inline with the specs read. When car is running it runs like new., so i dont thing injectors are going bad. I think it is a fuel delivery issue at this point, when it cranks excessively in the morning.

[Mrbizness1]

Seems like many of the reman parts are low quality today. I went through 3 pep boy alternators within a month then went to a Nissan dealer to get a good one. Here is some good info on Maxima starters.
I recently had a starter problem that went away when I tightened the connections but that was when the weather was cold. I wonder if I have a grease problem also.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516

[Nahkapohjola]

Thats a good site! The grease issue is also related to heat /ambient temp where /how vehicle is used: the light particles evaporate. My original is still going strong here in cold after 14 yrs.

I am planning to pry open (not to dismantle) the starter gearbox and inject some lube as long as its healthy. If possible, drill a hole for future easy maint.

[91q45a]

Another observation is the car cranks over much faster, now that i think about it, like it did prior to this whole mess. I think the speed of rotation has an effect on when the plugs fire, as it defnitely starts running much sooner then it did with the first reman starter, which did not rotate as fast. When i finally started, smoke came out of the exhause, so it must have been injection fuel, but it was just accumulating which also made it harder to start. Finally, poof, alittle ruff spot and then it was smooth. Now, it just fires right up, but still had a little lag after sitting all night. I think there is a pressure drop.

Is there a check valve or somethng that is supposed to keep fuel pressurized at the fuel rail? My filter only has 40k on it, and my first had 100 before i changed it. I know I know should be done much sooner, but it was only then that i felt hesitation from the restricted flow.

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by 91q45a

...a check valve or somethng that is supposed to keep fuel pressurized at the fuel rail? ....

In the end theres a regulator which may leak - like pump valves. As ign ACC is turned, pump will start and turn until pressure is up.

As said, check out that info uself...

Moisture condensation /coilpack hivoltage leaks? Vacuum ctrl hose leaks?

[98stocker]

I just went through this same thing on my 2000. Bought two at NAPA, both bad, asked if they could get any better quality starters, they said, yeah we can get this bosch unit for 50 bucks more. I said why the heck are you selling this other crap in the first place? anyway, the bosch starter makes it start like new.