How to change the inner tie rods? Rocket Science or not??

[lovemyescort]

1993 Ford Escort LX here, manual transmission.
Hi guys, I just recently was successful with doing a reverse flush of the clogged heater core and exchange of the radiator, thanks to you guys on this site who give so many valuable advises.
Now, the front ends are clunking. It might be the outer tie rod ends or the lower ball joints, which I know how to exchange. However, if it is the inner tie rods, I do NOT know so far how to do that.
So my question is:
Is exchanging the inner tie rods very complicated and not necessarily a do-it-yourself job? If it is not that hard, can you guys explain to me the worksteps or know of websites that give a step by step instruction? I checked on autozone.com in the repair guide section but they did not have instruction on it. Thanks in advance for any advise!

[SgtRauksauff]

get a big adjustable wrench, or vise-grips, or something. Hold the steering rack. Get a wrench onto the nut of the inner tie rod.

Unscrew it to remove it from the rack.

Reverse the procedure to put the new one on.

Then, get an alignment.


The actual process itself is absolutely easy.

The hard part is actually getting into a position so you can reach the nut. Passenger side is mildly contortive, but relatively easy to get to, just deal with the LCA and fitting between the back of the engine and the bolt.

The driver side is kind of hard, since the battery tray and tranny get in the way from the top, and the LCA is a little in the way on the bottom.


--sarge

[lovemyescort]

Thank you so much for the response and instructions! What do you mean with "LCA" and with "steering rack"? Do you mean with steering rack the actual tie rod bar? Thanks again.

[12Ounce]

If you have a really high mileage car ... you may want to change out the whole rack. Check to see how the replacement rack price compares to two inner rod ends ... which are included with a replacement rack.

You also get new seals, new rack mounting bushings, etc, etc. And I would consider replacing the rack easier than replacing the two inner tie rod ends.

[lovemyescort]

Thanks, good advice. Now changing the whole rack sounds really complicated. I wonder if I can do that. I will check on autozone.com or in my repair manual, if there are instructions. Or can you or anyone explain me how to change the rack?

[12Ounce]

It's pretty straightforward. I would suggest you buy (if you don't have them already) a couple of appropriate size flare-nut wrenches for removing the hyd tubes that hook up to the rack. I forget the sizes ... 15 mm and 17 mm perhaps???

You should also take an early look at the coupling between the rack and the steering column ... dust boot covers it inside the cabin, if I remember correctly.

Before starting, be sure to locate steering wheel in the straight-ahead position and tie it up someway so it doesn't loose position and you destroy the "clock-spring".

[lovemyescort]

Wow, thanks for telling me to tie up the steering wheel. I would not have thought about that. Do the hyd tubes need to be bled after being reinstalled on the new rack? Kinda like brake lines after installation? And, what is the "clock-spring"? (I'm learning more and more here as I go, hehe) Thanks again for your time and sharing of your knowledge. Marcel

[12Ounce]

The power steering system is self-bleeding, you won't have to do anything special after reassembly ..... other than constantly refilling as the engine is first started .... don't allow the pump to run dry! Check and top-up several times as you drive the first few miles. Keep the lid on loosely during this period to allow large bubbles of air to escape.

I'm assuming your model has a "clock-spring". "Clock-spring" is a bit of a misnomer as the current designs resemble clock spring much less than they use too years ago. It is a conductor assembly that allows elect current to flow back and forth to strg wheel controls ... such as horn buttons, cruise control switches, etc. There is a limit to how many revolutions it can be turned left or right before being damaged ... that's why it needs to be started off "in the middle".

[lovemyescort]

Thanks so much for all your valuable advices, 12Ounce! I am learning more and more. I will keep in mind to refill the steering fluid! Another thing I probably would not have thought about and would have eventually blew the power steering pump! Thanks so much!!!