How to replace Hub Assembly (bad speed sensor)

[kuhurdler]

background info---------------------
I've discovered that I have a bad speed sensor on my 2001 Chevy Impala LS
It has an ABS light and "Traction control Off" on the front dash

No trouble codes were found using the cheaper scanner at oreilly auto parts. However, I found that the right rear wheel was the only speed sensor that did not have ~1.04kOhms.

So I guess I have to replace the entire hub assembly to fix the bad speed sensor (thank you GM for this fine engineering design)

real question ----------------------

Can anyone give me some pointers on how to disassemble this Right Rear hub assembly? I pulled the rotor and caliper off of it, and I can't seem to figure out how to take apart the hub assembly


Thanks in advance for your help.

[2005chevimpalass]

Originally Posted by kuhurdler

background info---------------------
I've discovered that I have a bad speed sensor on my 2001 Chevy Impala LS
It has an ABS light and "Traction control Off" on the front dash

No trouble codes were found using the cheaper scanner at oreilly auto parts. However, I found that the right rear wheel was the only speed sensor that did not have ~1.04kOhms.

So I guess I have to replace the entire hub assembly to fix the bad speed sensor (thank you GM for this fine engineering design)

real question ----------------------

Can anyone give me some pointers on how to disassemble this Right Rear hub assembly? I pulled the rotor and caliper off of it, and I can't seem to figure out how to take apart the hub assembly


Thanks in advance for your help.

You can't just replace the sensor, you have too replace the whole wheel bearing , aproxx $ 400-700 depending where you live.

[kuhurdler]

Originally Posted by 2005chevimpalass

You can't just replace the sensor, you have too replace the whole wheel bearing , aproxx $ 400-700 depending where you live.

Right, and that was what I was trying to say. Perhaps I didn't say it clearly.

Right now, I am seeking advice for how to remove the existing hub assembly... I can't seem to figure out how it comes off.

The part is $120 at my local auto parts shop.

[57chevyragtop]

Well G, I looked at the autozone site for the repair guide but they no longer have free access to Alldata. And they don't have the repair guides for the 2000-2005 Impala yet. Be sure the replacement was not born in china, try to go with Moog or Timken or other good brand (my opinion). Remove wheel, Brake Caliper & Rotor...ABS electrical connector, rear hub to knuckle bolts (these you access through hole in hub one at a time) torque new hub to 55 ft. lbs. (75Nm), Rotor, then caliper, tourque bolts to 81ft. lbs (110Nm) being sure all mounting surfaces are clean and free of rust or debris..re-connect ABS electrical connector.

[kuhurdler]

Originally Posted by 57chevyragtop

Well G, I looked at the autozone site for the repair guide but they no longer have free access to Alldata. And they don't have the repair guides for the 2000-2005 Impala yet. Be sure the replacement was not born in china, try to go with Moog or Timken or other good brand (my opinion). Remove wheel, Brake Caliper & Rotor...ABS electrical connector, rear hub to knuckle bolts (these you access through hole in hub one at a time) torque new hub to 55 ft. lbs. (75Nm), Rotor, then caliper, tourque bolts to 81ft. lbs (110Nm) being sure all mounting surfaces are clean and free of rust or debris..re-connect ABS electrical connector.

Thanks for the help. I'm right with you until... the rear hub to knuckle bolts. Am I accessing these through a hole on the back side? (When I say back side, assume I am facing the hub from outside of the car)

are you talking about the 3 holes on the front of the part shown here:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=186&PTSet=A

[57chevyragtop]

Yes, looking at the hub (link you sent) you see 3 inspection holes in stud flange, one is larger than the other 2. it is thru this hole you access the hub retaining bolts as you rotate the flange to each for access. does this help? D` Private message(s) sent!

[kuhurdler]

Originally Posted by 57chevyragtop

Yes, looking at the hub (link you sent) you see 3 inspection holes in stud flange, one is larger than the other 2. it is thru this hole you access the hub retaining bolts as you rotate the flange to each for access. does this help? D` Private message(s) sent!

I've removed the 4 bolts through the hole as described. I can't seem to get the hub to break loose. I've hammered on it pretty good. Am I doing something wrong?

[kuhurdler]

Originally Posted by kuhurdler

I've removed the 4 bolts through the hole as described. I can't seem to get the hub to break loose. I've hammered on it pretty good. Am I doing something wrong?

I got it off, thought I should update. Beating it with the sledge didn't seem to do anything, just bent up the metal on the old one. I had to hammer a screwdriver between to wedge it apart, and when that didn't work, I used an air chisel.

I also removed the E-brake, but I think that was unnecessary, and it will be added work to reassemble it.

[kuhurdler]

Originally Posted by kuhurdler

I got it off, thought I should update. Beating it with the sledge didn't seem to do anything, just bent up the metal on the old one. I had to hammer a screwdriver between to wedge it apart, and when that didn't work, I used an air chisel.

I also removed the E-brake, but I think that was unnecessary, and it will be added work to reassemble it.

Fixed it. Final cost = $135 for a hub assembly. I probably could have gotten one for a little cheaper, but I like buying locally so I can exchange my warranty locally if needed.

I found out that I had accidentally bent the metal shield and had to take the wheel and brakes back off to fix a squealing noise after I thought I was done... but after straightening the shield back everything works great.

Thanks for the help.

[57chevyragtop]

Originally Posted by kuhurdler

Fixed it. Final cost = $135 for a hub assembly. I probably could have gotten one for a little cheaper, but I like buying locally so I can exchange my warranty locally if needed.

I found out that I had accidentally bent the metal shield and had to take the wheel and brakes back off to fix a squealing noise after I thought I was done... but after straightening the shield back everything works great.

Thanks for the help.

opcorn: Great! Glad you were able to get it off. Sorry I wasn't on or about when you had the trouble post but had to get a new computer...Argh!

I didn't think it would be stuck like that, guess I should recommend a puller next time. I got lucky when doing my front one...brother had an antique puller he'd gotten at an auction years ago that worked for me.

I do however recommend anyone working on their own car to go to the Library and at the very least check out the books they have for auto repair. It's a great way to decide which manual you may want to buy. Online auctions are a good source like Amazon or Ebay...used book stores can surprise you too. Look for one in your area...I just picked up a Honda Accord 1998-1999 Haynes for 5 bucks. I don't need it but a friend has two 99 Accords for his daughters