Heater Blower Motor

[ilfyrfytr]

When doing a search for a replacement for my heater blower motor, (Squealing is getting louder and is lasting longer,) I'm finding references to the heater core. Is this the same thing? Is it somewhat safe to buy a used one or should I invest $100 more for a new one? Thanks

[ilfyrfytr]

Found my answer about the heater core. Still searching for a used blower motor. The blower motor is a sealed unit, but is there anyway to sevice it?

[1999montana]

Originally Posted by ilfyrfytr

Found my answer about the heater core. Still searching for a used blower motor. The blower motor is a sealed unit, but is there anyway to sevice it?

The plastic housing around it must be joined in two pieces. My guess is with screws.

I took our Import's (a Saturn - Isuzu) heater motor out last year. The housing was held together with a couple of screws. Took the entire motor apart, cleaned the armature and the brushes, then lightly oiled the bushings that the shaft spins on.

I also took the heater motor out of our van in the fall to replace the heater motor resistor, but didn't pay much attention to how the motor was assembled. Would think it should be similar considering the motor was probably made off shore to begin with!

If the motor is squealing, it is likely the top bushing closest to the squirrel cage. The cage can be removed; - usually held in place with a spring clip/clamp.

The motor halves are held together with long screws that pass through the field magnets. If you can get it completely apart, I'd lightly oil or grease the bushings with a graphite-like (moly-type perhaps) lube and re-assemble. Try running it connected but not installed to see how it runs and sounds.

['97ventureowner]

What year is the vehicle? I did a quick search on a site I buy a lot of parts from (rockauto.com) and looked up how much a blower motor for a 2000 Montana would cost and you can get a Four Seasons brand blower motor for $62.79 plus shipping (which isn't that much.) The same goes for a 1998 model. A 2003 runs $51.79 to $80.79 depending on whether or not you have rear heat/air, (that's for A C Delco.) In my 20+ years of owning vehicles I never really had luck with used blower motors, maybe the ones from the '70s and '80s weren't built as well as todays, (actually I can't remember any GM car I owned back then which didn't have a problem with the blower motor in one way or another)If you can afford it, I'd go with a new one just for the "peace of mind" it brings. Less expensive ones can be found online, like at the site I just mentioned, or you can look in your local auto parts store for one that may offer a lifetime warranty. If you do buy one used, try to find one with a longer warranty if offered. Some salvage yards in my area offer anywheres from a 30 day to 101 days to 6 mos. warranty on an item like that.

[ilfyrfytr]

I got the blower out and took it apart. There was a little light rust on the bushings which I cleaned and gave a little light oil. Reconnected the wire prior to installing and of course it worked great. But then I got the squeal back after installation and 1 minute of operation. Will tackle it again tomorrow.

[1999montana]

Originally Posted by ilfyrfytr

...There was a little light rust on the bushings ... Will tackle it again tomorrow.

If cost is no issue, I say opt for a new one as in the previous post. Interesting that there is a difference in cost based on a rear heater setup (which our van has BTW).

If you want to try and fix it though, just on principle, the bushings can be cleaned as long as you can get the motor apart. The bushings should be made of a bronze material (originally impregnated with lubricant due to its porous nature).

The rust you see is generated by the shaft as the bushing 'dries out' over time. The oxidation gets between the shaft and the bushing exacerbating the problem and causing it to squeal.

If the motor is held together with anything other than bolts or long screws, the attaching parts can be drilled out and the motor reassembled using appropriate length screws and hex nuts found at any auto parts store. Sometimes getting the brushes to move out of the way in order to seat the armature in the bottom half requires some ingenuity to hold them off until the armature is completely seated in the one end. But you will figure it out.

If you can't get it to go back together, what have you lost? You still have to replace the motor anyway. Consider it an adventure on a Saturday.

You can thoroughly clean the shaft and bushings with varsol or brake cleaner...I like brake cleaner because it cleans the residue off and doesn't leave a film...clean the armature with a toothpick between each segment to get the crud out and polish the copper armature with fine sandpaper (500 grit or higher) the shaft ends too where they ride inside the bushings...then clean it once more with brake cleaner to get all the sanding and residue off. Let it dry.

You can use a small amount of graphite like grease and light oil on the bushings making sure to work it in by rotating the shaft in each bushing before assembly.

Let us know what you finally did and how it worked for you.

[ilfyrfytr]

Took it apart again today. Made sure there was oil near the squirrel cage and put it back together, seems to be working fine for now. I'm sure it will rear it's ugly head again. At that point I will be getting a new unit. Thanks for all the advise.