break problems??

[MarkSS]

I have a 79 malibu and I am having problems with the breaks. The rear breaks did not work when I got it. So I put a new master cylinder on it and had to put a new break line to the rear.(Rust) But it does not wont to bleed to the rear a little air and fluid comes out of the passanger side wheel cylinder and none out of the driver side so i took the line off at the "T"and had a buddy push the pedal but very little fluid came out. I put my finger over the hole while he pumped the breaks and it did not build up much or any pressure.The front did good at first but after a couple of times little fluid came out and the peddle was about on the floor. Does any body have any Ideas!!!!!! Please help I need this done ASAP before March 17 when the drag strip opens.

[HyperFox]

I dont know sweet nothing about this series of malibu, but heres a suggestion.

Check your proportioning valve, it sounds as if its working way too well. Its designed to put 80% of the power to the front brakes and 20% to the rear. (The exact numbers can vary) but it sounds almost as if yours is going 95% to the front, and 5% to the rear.

Im not 100% sure, and nor am I the expert on these cars.

[MarkSS]

That is what a friend of mine said it might be but where can you get one I called Auto zone and Advance and they dont carry one. Nobody there knows what it would be. I am going to try to blow out the lines out and see if that helps.

[HyperFox]

Does your car have discs in the front? If it doesnt, there is no need for a proportioning valve as each drum brake will have a starwheel to adjust the brake. If you have drum brakes and your lines are good, start looking at your brake distribution block.

Now if you do have front discs, look at this part http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/VCH108.htm

Its about $100 usd.

By the way.. Did you bychance bleed the master cylender?

Heres a small exerpt from an Olds sit I check out once in a while.

The easiest way I know to do this is actually to mount the master cylinder in the car, rather than in a vice, but leave the brake lines disconnected. Then connect up the plastic adapters, run short lengths of rubber vacuum tubing from them back into the master cylinder reservoirs, and bleed away using the brake pedal, from inside the car. Not only does this eliminate the hassles of trying to push in the plunger with the tip of a slippery phillips screwdriver covered in brake-fluid or whatever, but also there is less chance of air creeping back into the master cylinder while you transport it from the vice to the car and mount it up. If it's already in the car, it only takes a few seconds to remove the plastic adaptors and hook up the brake lines, and there is less likelihood of fluid dribbling out and air going in to replace it.
Ideally you have a friend watch for the bubbles while you pump away (slowly!) at the gas pedal, but you can do it singlehanded by just plain overkill - pump till you're sure there can't be any bubbles left!

[MarkSS]

When I got the master Cylinder it came with a bleeding kit and I did it untill all the bubbles came out. It has disks in the front and drums in the rear. Will a p-valve off a S-10 work on the car? It looks the same and I all ready have one.

[HyperFox]

AHA!!! Found it.

Your proportioning valve is made by Acdelco. Your part number is 172-1353.

As for a valve from an s-10, what year and engine were in it?

[MarkSS]

The S-10 was a 85 ext cab, it came with a 2.8 but had a 350 in it at one time. It looks like it would work but I was tired of messing with it last night.

[HyperFox]

It might work.. Jus go slow for the first bit... Tell me if it works.. And use duct tape. lol