Power Steering Pump and Water Pump

[DaveLisaBerger]

Hey guys,


Can anyone tell me step by step directions as to how to change my water pump and my power steering pump (both are leaking and failed inspection ) on my 2000 Windstar SEL (3.8L) Pictures out be great. I've never done this before but do note i'm not an idiot!

Thanks,
DaveLisaBerger

[DRW1000]

I think both procedures are covered in the Haynes manuals availble for under $20. I think this would be a good investment for your projects.

The power steering pump I think is pretty straight forward but the water pump involves the removal of a lot of the accessories and even loosening the motor mounts and raising the engine. I think it is an 8 hour procedure at a mechanic.

[DaveLisaBerger]

Originally Posted by DRW1000

I think both procedures are covered in the Haynes manuals availble for under $20. I think this would be a good investment for your projects.

The power steering pump I think is pretty straight forward but the water pump involves the removal of a lot of the accessories and even loosening the motor mounts and raising the engine. I think it is an 8 hour procedure at a mechanic.

I bought the manual and it sucks! it just says to remove it! gee what a waste of $17.99 and my water pump has a seal leak and I used a product called Alumaseal Radiator stop leak (2 bottles) ($1.99 each) and it's not leaking anymore But as far as my power steering pump it still has a mild drip still under the car I drained some of it out and put in some lucas power steering stop leak in and it didn't make it any better a waste of $8.99

Thanks,
BigDave

[12Ounce]

As these jobs go: the water pump removal is much more difficult than the power steering pump.

The power steering pump is very accessable on your model ... held in by (three I remember) small bolts. Of couse, the serpertine belt and some hoses must be removed. If your leak is a hose leak, you may be able to replace an o-ring and not have to remove the pump.

Removing the water pump is a "dog". All the above work must be done ... as well as remove nearly all other engine-front accessories. Then the engine must be jacked "over and up" to provide clearance to remove the water pump mounting screws. There are no secrets to make it simple ... just a great deal of grunt work.

If I had to do a water pump replacement, I would go ahead and replace the front cover gasket ... just to stay ahead of a known problem.

[wiswind]

I have changed my power steering pump, though my '96 will be slightly different.
I would remove the alternator to make it easier.
You MUST use care when removing and installing the high pressure line, to avoid cross threading or otherwise damaging the threads.
The high pressure line is the metal one.

I removed the whole power steering pump and alternator bracket.
I posted pictures of the pump, and bracket outside of the vehicle, to help in identifying which bolts are which.

You will need to have a power steering pulley removal and installation tool, available at most auto part stores.
You don't want to force the pulley on / off the shaft without using the tool as it will damage the pump.

Of course, that said, I would determine if the leak is from the pump, and not from a connection, or hose.

Water pump replacement does require lifting the engine slightly in order to be able to clear the unibody frame member that is right next to the water pump.
I have not had to replace the water pump.
You will find instructions on autozone's website under the vehicle specific repair guides.
You may have to select a year of 1998 in oder to get the guide.....but, again, for the water pump, I think that it will be close.

As far as the front cover gasket, that is a MAJOR job....even if you are already doing the water pump.
A problem with doing the job is that you have to remove so much stuff...with special tools and procedures......
If you don't get things back just right.....you have problems.
Also.....I just read on flatratetech that dealership mechanics see complete engine failure after the front cover (aka timing cover) gasket job, caused by junk getting into the oil pump, robbing the engine of oil flow.
Seems that doing the job can knock stuff loose, and it is then drawn up into the oil pump, or cloggs the oil pump uptake screen, while the engine is being run after the repair.
The oil pump is mounted on the front cover.


I would also verify that the leak is for SURE from the water pump, and not from the front cover gasket.
The fact that the stop leak sealed it up makes me wonder....as I would not expect it to work on the water pump bearing seal.
If it IS from the water pump bearing (the shaft), the coolant will damage the water pump bearing, so it will need to be replaced.

I had a very slight seapage from my front cover, and used Bar's brand of stop leak......and it has held.......for 5 years so far.
Catching it at the seapage stage was helpful.

The first step in doing either of these repairs would be to remove the serpentine belt....it does not do well with getting coolant or the power steering fluid on it.
Then, make sure that the pulleys, etc are clean of fluids before putting the belt back in place.

Your 2000 will use Mercon rated transmission fluid (ATF) for the power steering fluid.
I would recommend the Mobil 1 ATF as it is a synthetic, and will give you good cold flow and heat resistance.

[12Ounce]

As of '99, the power steering pulley does not need to be removed first for the pump removal.

If however, the shaft seal is leaking ... you will then need the removal tool.