1998 Century ABS/Break Lights

[Ultrablue2003]

I scanned the forum and was unable to find a thread inclusive of a similar problem.

For starters, I own a 1998 Buick Century Custom. 105k miles, 3.1L v6. Power windows/locks. The car has mostly highway miles on it. I live outside Chicago

My morning commute was seamless. I went to my car at lunch and started it. After releasing the break pedal (I drove manual for a few years), the car produced both the Anti-Lock yellow light and the Brake red light. I pumped the e-break a few times, thinking that could be the problem. Of course it was not. I turned the car on and off a few times, trying to eliminate the lights. Every time I switched the car back on, the lights would disappear until I released the break pedal. The current set-up has no problem stopping the car. I just find the brakes to be quite a bit more stiff and the pedal to be more unforgiving when smoothing out stops. I checked the fuses when I got home from work. Nothing was blown.

Could this be an ABS relay? Please assist.

Thanks,
Dave

[Bassasasin]

Have you checked the fluid level?

[Ultrablue2003]

I just checked the fluid level. This does not appear to be the problem. I also just noticed my typo in the subject. *Brake

I also took the car down my street. I tried to engage the anti-locks on a patch of snow. The brakes locked, did not anti-lock, and I came to a skidding stop. I checked my brake lines, and there is no evidence of fluid leak.

[BNaylor]

Best thing to do is get it scanned with an ABS capable scanner. High probability an ABS/Chassis related DTC is stored. Troubleshooting a GM Mark VI ABS system normally requires proper diagnostics or it is just a guessing game.

[Ultrablue2003]

I was afraid of that. Would this remedy require a trip to a mechanic, or would an autopart store be able to produce this diagnostic test equiptment?

I guess what I'm trying to say is "Should I just take the car in and say 'Fix it!'."?

[Bassasasin]

I have some experience with the ABS.. but your post confused me as to what lights and symptoms.
I dont know if your parking brake is on if it is or the switch on it doesn't seem to work properly, you may want to look there. It makes sense the ABS would disable if the system thinks the brake is applied.

It's been common a wheel sensor has caused an ABS disable.
The ABS can be checked wheel by wheel at the ABS controller connector if one sesor has quit.
Usualy its 1K ohms for each wheel. You could check at each plug in the wheel areas to each wheel .
Beyond a wheel sensor check a diagnostic at a shop may be closer to indicate a problem.

Your correct that it's pricey. $80 for the diagnostic isn't unusual, however, if they follow up and do the work, often they give you an adjusted price.

You will have to get familiar with the connector , how its numbered and locate connectors at the wheels.
The pins to check have been posted before on Buicks and perhaps yours are similar.

If you do find a open sensor, the replacement is $120 approx for the hub wheel sensor assembly on one wheel.
Some have successfully gotten them from a junk yard, but I don't recommend it since the old ones come apart easily with age and corrosion. The old ones usually have to be encouraged out of their place with a good chiesel.

Good luck.

[BNaylor]

The red brake light on a Century better known as "Brake System Warning Light" he is talking about is a combination warning lamp for the emergency brake, brake fluid level and/or a possible conventional braking system hydraulic failure.

His problem sounds more like an ABS modulator/motor pack/solenoid or EBCM module to me. I would get it scanned. Places like Autozone and Advanced cannot check for ABS codes with their scanners.

[Ultrablue2003]

Thank you guys for your advice. I took my car into my trusted mech. 200 bucks later I found that my ABS computer had gone, and my rear brake lines were in desprate need of replacement. I ended up trading the car in. I appreciate the rapid response to my questions. You guys are definately a "go-to".