Strut replacement

johnb2334 · #1 03-06-2007, 09:19 AM

Im looking to replace my front and rear struts. Im a little concerned because I have never done struts before and have been told that the spring is very dangerous and that I may not want to attempt this on my own. Im looking for some advice from someone that has changed struts in the past that can let me know if its a smart idea to attempt on my own. I do have general knowlege on working on a car such as replacing wheel hubs, pulleys, supersharger, ext... Thanks for your help!

BNaylor · #2 03-06-2007, 09:28 AM

Welcome to AF.

Smart idea if you want to save about $200 in labor costs for all four struts. The struts are a DIY job. A strut spring compressor tool is required to remove the spring from the strut assembly after the strut is removed from the car. The tool can be rented or purchased outright. Tech procedure below should give you an idea of the work involved.

Click here

Strut Disassembled

johnb2334 · #3 03-06-2007, 09:55 AM

Thank you for your help. I do have a few questions. Is the box wrench something I need to remove the top nut? Just wondering because I would have to purchase one. Im also not sure what the bump stop is or if i will have to worry about it. I am just changing the struts and useing the same springs so please let me know if this is something I need to concern myself over. Thanks again for all of the good information and you're help!

BNaylor · #4 03-06-2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnb2334

Thank you for your help. I do have a few questions. Is the box wrench something I need to remove the top nut? Just wondering because I would have to purchase one. Im also not sure what the bump stop is or if i will have to worry about it. I am just changing the struts and useing the same springs so please let me know if this is something I need to concern myself over. Thanks again for all of the good information and you're help!

The box end metric wrench comes in handy because the strut shaft will turn and it will be hard to get the nut off. It allows you to get the upper strut mount nut removed and get another wrench in to keep the strut shaft from turning. Another way if you plan on discarding the old strut is to use a vice grip on the strut shaft from below after the car is jacked up or just remove the three upper strut mount bolts and do the nut removal after strut is removed. The bumper stop is part of the plastic bellows covering that protects the strut and unless damaged does not need to be replaced.

BTW - Use WD40 to help loosen the bolts and nuts at the upper strut mount and steering knuckle.

Good luck.

johnb2334 · #5 03-06-2007, 10:10 AM

When you are saying bumber stops and bellows, are those pieces all part of the strut mount itself? The reason I am asking is because I am replacing the strut mounts and just want to make sure I have all the parts I may need before I start the job.

BNaylor · #6 03-06-2007, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnb2334

When you are saying bumber stops and bellows, are those pieces all part of the strut mount itself? The reason I am asking is because I am replacing the strut mounts and just want to make sure I have all the parts I may need before I start the job.

To do the job right you should replace the upper strut mount/load bearing especially if you have some mileage racked up. See pic below for that plastic bellows and bumper stop. It is a separate part(s). The bumper stop is fitted to the bottom part of the plastic bellows cover.

johnb2334 · #7 03-06-2007, 12:24 PM

about to do the job and another guide said to remove the top three nuts prior to jacking th car off the ground which is different then the instructions you provided. Does it make a difference or make it easier either way?

BNaylor · #8 03-06-2007, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnb2334

about to do the job and another guide said to remove the top three nuts prior to jacking th car off the ground which is different then the instructions you provided. Does it make a difference or make it easier either way?

Actually it really doesn't make a difference either way on the upper strut plate mount nuts. The instructions are just a guide to get you in the ballpark or some idea of the work involved and by the time you get done will have your own way of doing a strut job. Sometimes instructions make it more complex than it really is.

I loosen but leave the three nuts to the upper strut mount intact until after the car is properly jacked up and the two bottom strut to steering knuckle bolts/nuts are removed.

BTW - After you do the struts you will need to get the alignment checked.

johnb2334 · #9 03-06-2007, 01:23 PM

Im having problem getting the two knuckle bolts to slide out. I tried tapping them out with a 3lbs sledge and that didnt do the trick either. keep in mind im not hitting them super hard due to not wanting to cause any damage. Have you had a problem with these in the past and if so what was a solution to getting them out. Thanks

BNaylor · #10 03-06-2007, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnb2334

Im having problem getting the two knuckle bolts to slide out. I tried tapping them out with a 3lbs sledge and that didnt do the trick either. keep in mind im not hitting them super hard due to not wanting to cause any damage. Have you had a problem with these in the past and if so what was a solution to getting them out. Thanks

Since the strut extends (gas pressurized) the object is to get the lower control arm (a-frame) back to an acceptable level. I recall using a two ton small floor jack by bringing it underneath the control arm to get the pressure off the two lower strut mount bolts and using plenty of WD40. You can tap the two lower strut bolts out by leaving the nut partially threaded and using the socket and a hammer. That is the part most people don't get into too much detail on and fend for themselves.

johnb2334 · #11 03-06-2007, 03:20 PM

LOL! Thanks, I got them out just wasnt sure how much force would be two much. Of course on the right side I cant get the nuts to turn off of the bolts and have already snapped the head off of a breaker bar.

johnb2334 · #12 03-06-2007, 05:16 PM

Im getting ready to compress the spring and I can get my compression tool on one side on the top of the spring and the bottom which leaves a middle spring open. On the other side the tool does not fit properly flush unles i go from the middle of the spring to the top. My concern is that Im not going to be compressing both sides evenly and wondered if you could offer any advice on this. Im also wondering how far I should compress before i Know im good to remove the top bolt?

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