'93 PA won't start after I "fixed" it...help b4 wife kills me!

[sleo33]

Hey all...here's my sordid tale. 1993 PA w/ series I 3.8 (vin L) ran fine but had small coolant leak. I thought it might be the plastic upper intake manifold. After removing and inspecting said UIM, it appeared to be fine. I also had to pull the injectors. I replaced the O rings while I was at it. In the process of doing this I broke the plastic tip on one, so I replaced it. I also sprayed intake cleaner liberally in the throttle body while it was off of the intake. I put it all back together, started it up...it idled rough for about 30 secs. then stalled. When trying to start it, it won't spin, the starter kicks but thts it...kind of like is locked up? Battery is strong. I'm terrified that a small chunk of that injector tip may have fallen into the open port...unlikely but if this happened how bad is it? Help!
Thanks.

[Mickey#1]

Pull all the spark plugs & see if they have coolant on them. Will it turn over with the plugs out? Let us know what you find.

[Bassasasin]

The starter kicks.. or turns the engine over?..
Does the starter whine? turn..

To see if its a hydralic lock, pull the plugs and see if it turns over and blows stuff.

I have to be careful when writing.. text can be confusing.
The injector tip would chew it up not lock it.

Were you accountable for all your tools?

Proubbly just a wire loose on the starter. Or ground or battery.



Bass

[sleo33]

Thanks so much guys. I'll pull the plugs and look for coolant and try to start as you advised. Tools are accounted for.
When I turn the key, the starter "kicks" with a very firm crank, but engine does not rotate. All light, accessories are bright and functional. Just "feels" like engine is "locked". How could I have hydro locked the motor? I've heard of this before, but never had any experience with this.
Thanks again for your help.
Scott

[corning_d3]

Hydrolocking an engine doesn't take much fluid. The carb cleaner could have caused it, depending on how much you sprayed in it. If I had to guess, however, the hydrolock could be caused by coolant and as suggested up there, pulling the plugs will let you know quickly. I have a question, could you see any coolant leaking outside the engine?

EDIT: If it is hydrolocking on coolant, pull one plug at a time and briefly try to crank the engine each time. That way you know which cylinder is locked.

[sleo33]

Thanks Corning. The initial coolant leak was noticed by that unmistakable smell in the passenger compartment and also very small puddles in driveway. When I add to the resevoir and bring up to the full line, coolant will disappear slowly and then seem to get no worse. Used to get low coolant light, but seldom do now. Engine temp is in normal range...but I'm in northern IN in the winter too.

[sleo33]

OK... I pulled all the spark plugs. I knew right away I had a problem when #1 plug was pulled and coolant poured out...thats not good. Pulled all remaining 5. #1 was only cylinder that coolant drained from although plugs were wet in others. When cranked for a few secs she blew out a pretty good spray of coolant. Does this mean my lower intake gasket is bad? Whats next fellas?
Thanks again for the great advice!!!

[Bassasasin]

Oley Smokes.. ....
Someting is amiss..



The good news is your familiar and the process will not take as long. (been there).


The bad news
I forsee if you want to repair it, it will have to come apart again. You may find a bolt missing or not torqued, but even then there won't be confidence the gasket is in right.
At least down to the level of your previous repair. Coolant gets inside a cylinder from a gasket seated wrong or damaged done or a head is cracked.

Proper replacement and/or placement of the UIM gasket needs addressing.

Personally if I were there I would want to replace the lifters. Mine are starting to rattle.

Be sure to check the gasket for a good hole-to-hole match. I have seen them wrong.

Best of Luck.