Trunk problem

[Jonnymar]

The interior trunk release doesn't work. i could live with that. I was just using the key the good old fashioned way. One day I used the key to open the trunk. Upon closing the trunk, it did not close and I can't seem to make it happen. I also noticed a wire now dangling from the upper trunk lid. I tried tracing to point of origin and can't find where it goes to. I'm thinking that it was at one point the trunk light to the right side of the the locking mechanism, however there is no light on that side....why won't my trunk close!!!

[Loekee75]

I'm pretty sure I know what your trunk issue is; the trunk release actuator. I recently had the same problem with mine. What happened was my actuator went out, and when it did, it was stuck in the "OPEN" position, which in turn caused the latch to remain open, and not lock when the trunk was closed. First, remove the actuator from the trunk lid, it's connected to the latch assembly. It's very easy to remove, held on with two small screws. Once it's removed, try closing your trunk without it. If the lid latches shut now, you found the culprit.

[Bassasasin]

That sounds right... I just set my pull down, down and use the key.. the trunk still pops open when I use the remote. Hitched up the spring open too so it pops all the way open when I remote key it.. It closes like an old trunk does, but it pops wide open for groceries and such..

Good Luck

[Jonnymar]

I popped the latch assembly off the trunk lid. I think the actuator must have been removed previously. The latch assembly works as evidenced by puttitg a screwdriver into the slot and watching it latch. My first thought is that the pull down? motor assembly shorted in the down position and that the upper latch assembly has nothing to "latch" onto? Any help grrrreatly appreciated.

[Bassasasin]

Yah. as I remember.. On my 94' I somehow used voltage to the motor to set the latch height... and set it where it latched by just shutting the lid tight.
After getting the setting right I disabled the pull down motor part and left it that way.
The Junk yard models didnt seem to match around that year and I gave up on finding one.

GOod Luck

[Jonnymar]

And now...It seems that my wife has just reported that there are no turn signals or brake lights...and the oil pressure light buries itself below the dash on idle and at stop lights? Any ideas?

[Pony Boy Midnight]

I might be too late to send this post to you, but here is what I did.

My trunk did the same thing at 107,000 mi. After looking at the usual parts places, I finally gave it up and checked at the local Buick Dealer.
I paid $18 and change for a brand new OEM Trunk actuator switch and installed it in less than 30 minutes. These little buggers take quite a beating over time; so it is not uncommon for them to get whacked. This is the second replacement for my Buick. The price was right & installation was incredibly simple.

I would not try to use a switch from the junker yard, but that's up to you...

Cheers...
Ponyboy

[Scrapper]

if it's top switch and not trunk pull down switch i'd see how much new top switch is i just replaced on my mom's car and it came off a caddy the moter at bottom are same...but if pull down switch i'd buy it new like he sais 18.00 bucks is good price and not used.. but her's is a 91 P.A. not much diffirence..good luck..