2000 LX 3.8 problemafter Isolator bolt fix. Please help!

[djbenn505]

Hello
I've been leeching off these threads and forums for some time now, and I must admit they have been a big help thanks.
Now is time to assert myself.
I have a problem with my van after I did the isolator bolt fix. The problem is that probably when I did the job I must have knocked out something cause now my ac and heater air will only blow out the defrost vent by the windshield. The air will no longer blow out of the foot vent and middle vents. I would appreciate any information that I did that might have caused this problem.

A totally different problem that is not related to the above problem is that my cruise control works only 10% of the time. This has been happening before I did the isolator bolt job. I was wondering could it be the switch? or is there many factors that would cause the cruise control only to work sometimes?
I would appreciate any replies. Or if these topics have been discussed before just point me in the direction where I would need to look.
Thanks

[garync1]

I do know that there were quite a few vacuum hoses back in the rear of the intake and some connected to a relay or check valve of some sort I would inspect those and see what you find. The Blend door for the defrost and other vent controls is by vacuum the temp settings are by electric motor. hope this helps..

[djbenn505]

Thanks
I have never taken any automotive classes, so my technical knowledge is limited. As far as I know all the vacuum lines that go into the intake are in place. The van does still have a noise to it even after the isolator bolt job. It vaguely sounds like a person riding a bike with a baseball card in the spoke.

[fz1rider]

Since you said the heater problem started after the isolator bolt repair, I would also recommend double-checking the intake re-assembly. I would be suspicious of an unplugged connector or hose.

As for the cruise problem, it's more than likely that the pressure switch on the bottom of the brake fluid resevoir has gone bad. The originals have a tendency to develop internal leaks, and render the cruise inoperable. If the switch is wet at all with brake fluid, replace it. The new one will be an updated version.

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by djbenn505

Thanks
It vaguely sounds like a person riding a bike with a baseball card in the spoke.

Chances are the upper intake baffle is now loose. I did one fix where the vehicle was quiet, but once I had the upper manifold apart and back together, the upper baffle began to rattle. Very common problem. Some purchase a new upper manifold, others (me included) use RTV to secure the upper baffle in place.

[djbenn505]

Thanks for all the replies. I am gonna look into all your suggestions immediately. I will note a update after I am done. It may take a couple of days. I will do it just incase someone else has this problem.
djbenn505

[chasealley]

I was just working back there so I can give you a bit of info on the vac thing.

On my 2001 there is a large vac line that comes off the manifold. After about 4 inches it has a large splitter that sends it to different places. As I remember it, 1 goes to the EVR mounted right beside it, and one goes to a sort of vacuum canister mounted onto the fresh air intake. On mine that one is red BUT, just before it gets there you'll find another branch off, a black plastic vac line that goes to the heater inside the car. Mine was loose where it mount to the red line (think it was a T with yet another branch).

In short, that area of vacuum is rather extensive. I found a crack in the rubber on mine. But check those out and look for a disconnect somewhere because that is the split that goes to your heater....

[frostie]

The cruise problem can also result from the switch on the steering wheel. On my 99, I had to take the switch out and clean out all the crud inside it (previous owner must have eaten lunch in it every day).

You can carefully pry the switch out, then dis-assemble it. A warning, you will need to make an extender connector in order to re-assemble it (parts from Radio Shack did the job for me, about a $5 fix).

[garync1]

Originally Posted by chasealley

I was just working back there so I can give you a bit of info on the vac thing.

On my 2001 there is a large vac line that comes off the manifold. After about 4 inches it has a large splitter that sends it to different places. As I remember it, 1 goes to the EVR mounted right beside it, and one goes to a sort of vacuum canister mounted onto the fresh air intake. On mine that one is red BUT, just before it gets there you'll find another branch off, a black plastic vac line that goes to the heater inside the car. Mine was loose where it mount to the red line (think it was a T with yet another branch).

In short, that area of vacuum is rather extensive. I found a crack in the rubber on mine. But check those out and look for a disconnect somewhere because that is the split that goes to your heater....

Great info on that!!I think thats where his problem is...I knew there was a branch off somewhere back there just been a while and cant remember..

[chasealley]

I was just back there on the weekend so it was perfect timing! I kind of made note of what vac lines headed into the passenger compartment because I have a code set for blend door actuator. I haven't done the fix yet but I do recall seeing that black vac come into the heater somewhere inside the car.

Ya, when it goes to defrost only that's the sure sign that vac is disconnected somewhere.

Also forgot, there is a check valve in that red vac line that the black branches off of. Not that it matters, but I am proud of myself for remembering