help with clicking sound

[thedeadcivic]

alright. well.... my car has been making a clicking sound when i make turns. i thought it was a worn CV Axel, but it only makes the sound when the car is in gear, and it also makes the sound when i am accelerating and going straight. HELP ME

[viper-blue]

that still sounds like a cv joint..when its not in gear there is less torque going to the joint and it may not click anything tranny related would have a grinding or humming sound

[CRXperiment]

Yeah, it sounds like your axles are worn out. Are the boots torn? Get reman ones with a lifetime warranty.

[thedeadcivic]

is that common? its only happening to the side with the torn boot. how would i fix it? =/

[CRXperiment]

Definitely 100% common. Axles are a maintenance part. They need to be replaced after a while. Usually, from my experience, OEM Honda axles last till about 150k-200k give or take (depending on severity of driving). Take in your old ones and get reman ones from autozone or whatever. Replacing them is pretty easy too. The hardest part is probably the ball joint, or getting the axle in place in the tranny/ hub.

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/axle.html

Basically, I recommend separating the hub from the LCA from the ball joint, contrary to what the write-up says. There is a super easy trick to this. All you need to do is jack up the hub, shove a ratchet inbetween the hub and LCA and lower the jack. Your ball joint will pop loose, totally safe. Search for axle replacement on honda-tech or here to find more write-ups.

PS: DIY, its easy and you dont need to pay a mechanic

[FrodoGT]

If you remove the upper join its the only one you need to remove, and you can just swing the whole knuckle back and out of the way with the steering link still attached and the LCA like a door on a hinge. Took me less than 30 mins last time, with the worst possibly wrong tools.

[Tony]

Same thing with using the lower control arm instead of the upper Frodo. I've always used the LCA and it takes 30 mins tops.

But it definitely sounds like your CV Axle. You CAN just replace the joint, but I would recommend just replacing the axle. I usually replace both axles at the same time if I can afford it.

[thedeadcivic]

is it bad to buy remanufactured parts? this is all i can afford right now and i want to replace both axels.
http://www.overnightautoparts.com/st...u&make_code=HO

[FrodoGT]

you can go to like discount auto and get one for almost the same price without having to ship it.

[viper-blue]

from what I've heard even "new" cv joints are remanufactured...particularly when your dealing with a 17 year old cari was just replacing a wheel bearing today and decided to replace my cv boots cause the axles are good and the boots are cheap enough...I don't know if my axles are different from others but you also have to take the damper fork off the bottom of the strut cause the inner joint won't fit through the fork..I had to get my coil spring compressor on the spring to get the fork to line back up with the control arm..there are ways around removing the damper but I didn't want to risk damage to my new control arm bushings or bend the stabilizer bar...all things considered the axle nut is usually the most aggrevating thing to remove if your just using a breaker bar..go to princess auto and get a 4ft long half inch breaker bar and 32 mm socket..its easier to get someone to step on the brakes with the car turned on and just break the axle bolt while the tires are on the ground..that sucker is soooooo tight!

[CRXperiment]

Originally Posted by viper-blue

from what I've heard even "new" cv joints are remanufactured...particularly when your dealing with a 17 year old cari was just replacing a wheel bearing today and decided to replace my cv boots cause the axles are good and the boots are cheap enough...I don't know if my axles are different from others but you also have to take the damper fork off the bottom of the strut cause the inner joint won't fit through the fork..I had to get my coil spring compressor on the spring to get the fork to line back up with the control arm..there are ways around removing the damper but I didn't want to risk damage to my new control arm bushings or bend the stabilizer bar...all things considered the axle nut is usually the most aggrevating thing to remove if your just using a breaker bar..go to princess auto and get a 4ft long half inch breaker bar and 32 mm socket..its easier to get someone to step on the brakes with the car turned on and just break the axle bolt while the tires are on the ground..that sucker is soooooo tight!

Yeah, a 1/2" breaker bar and 32mm socket with a long cheater bar is a must, unless you have air tools. Make sure to do this while the car is on the ground and a friend on the brakes.

From my experience, if you have an STD or HF you don't need to take out the strut fork, as the axle is small enough to slide through. DX/Si axles are bigger and require you to remove the strut fork.

[FrodoGT]

you dont have to really remove it..just push it out of the way, take the bolt out and pull the LCA down, slide it to the side and put the axle inside then pop it back over the LCA

[Tony]

Yea what Frodo said, its much easier to just remove the strut from the LCA and move it out of the way. Its another reason why I favor taking the LCA off rather than the Upper.

[thedeadcivic]

i used an air gun to take off the 32mm. didnt have to have anyone on the brakes or anything. it was acctually one of the easiest jobs ive had to do. probably took me around 30 minutes with a hoist and all the right tools.

[Tony]

with a hoist? what do you need a hoist for? And yea, if you use an impact you don't need anyone on the brakes.