Expert Advice on Tracker Timing Belt Replacement

[potsie17]

Need someone's expert opinion here. I had the timing belt replaced in November 06 with the water pump. Problem now is the crackshaft is gone due to what my mechanics says was caused by a bolt that was not tighten on the crankcase. Now I did not have the timing belt done by my regular mechanic. Was referred to this other place to save $. What I need to know is the bolt that became loose would the timing belt replacement, would this bolt have been touched. My regular mechanic thinks they should have tightened this.
I spoke with the garage who did the timing belt change and they have since found out this is a common problem with the Geo TRacker with this bolt becoming loose.
Can anyone confirm this or has anyone had the same issue.
thanks so much!!!!!

[baumbr]

Potsie,
I've read a lot of posts on many Tracker forums and have never heard of a crankcase or timing cover bolt causing such a problem. As for the crank shaft to timing pulley and camshaft pulley bolts, if they are properly torqued to specifications they shouldn't work loose. Are these the bolts that were suggested as needing tightening?

BTW, at least on my '92, there isn't any need to fiddle with a crankcase (oil pan) bolt to remove the timing cover. Sounds to me like someone is trying to dodge a bullet.

[igya]

Originally Posted by potsie17

Need someone's expert opinion here. I had the timing belt replaced in November 06 with the water pump. Problem now is the crackshaft is gone due to what my mechanics says was caused by a bolt that was not tighten on the crankcase. Now I did not have the timing belt done by my regular mechanic. Was referred to this other place to save $. What I need to know is the bolt that became loose would the timing belt replacement, would this bolt have been touched. My regular mechanic thinks they should have tightened this.
I spoke with the garage who did the timing belt change and they have since found out this is a common problem with the Geo TRacker with this bolt becoming loose.
Can anyone confirm this or has anyone had the same issue.
thanks so much!!!!!

There's only one bolt that could damage the crankshaft. And that's the main bolt that holds the crank balancer and timing belt pully to the end of the crank. The only reason for removing that bolt is to change out the crank seal, oil pump or timing belt pully. That bolt NEVER comes loose of its own. In fact, it's VERY hard to remove it because of the torque and thread-tite that's used from the factory. Now, if the bolt has ever been removed, it's possible that it was not replaced according to factory specs. But, for a factory installed crank bolt to just come loose on its own..................forget it, it just doesn't happen. Ask the repairman if they had a reason to remove the crank bolt. It they did, there's where the problem lies.

[toddzilla.]

Here's your issue. I finished rebuilding my engine 4 days ago, due to the same issue.

First off, to do that job they didnt have to touch your crank bolt. your crank bolt should be torqued to 52 foot pounds AND LOCK TITED!!! THREAT LOCKER, NOT SEALER! An auto shop didn't lock-tite my crank bolt when they screwed around with my car, which because its only supposed to be to 52 ft lbs, it NEEDS lock-tite, because thats not very tight at all. I'd say he didn't do this, which in my case it came so loose the bolt stripped, threw timing off, took a chunk the size of the quarter out of the end of my crank where the keyway is. If your keyway is gone, you need a new crankshaft. period. you can buy a new engine, or rebuild it. it cost me 200 for a crank, 125 for bearings (you MUST get new bearings, thrust bearing aswell) and you gotta pull the engine, and re-do the bottom half.

Go slow, use your Haynes for torque specs and the sequence of tightening the bolts after replacing crank. make sure to use factory assembly lube on the bearings, etc.

i just did it, mine runs like a charm now. except i had my timing 180 out of course, and was shooting flames out the tailpipe trying to start for a bit haha. make sure CAS(crank angle sensor) is top dead center; there should only be 3 different ways your rotor can go in, you can hear which sounds right (due to hall effect) when trying to start it afterward.

if you decide to do this, add my msn and ill help you out.

[email protected]

good luck! its a long crappy journey but it was worth it for me.


EDIT: If your keyway hasnt gone yet, and your crankshaft is fine, and yo uonly need a new bolt. MAKE SURE YOU THREAD LOCK IT, WITH RED THREAD LOCK (permanent grade), and reset your timing (mechanical and distributor) =D

[jorgeva]

I had the same issue with my 96 Tracker. The bolt and the keyway broke off the crank.
Someone told me that if I can find an expert welder, they may be able to weld the keyway back onto the crank, without having to replace the entire engine, or replace the crank.

What do you guys think about this? ... Thanks!

[gumby_ct]

Don't forget the crank has to be balanced - let us know how you make out.

Originally Posted by jorgeva

I had the same issue with my 96 Tracker. The bolt and the keyway broke off the crank.
Someone told me that if I can find an expert welder, they may be able to weld the keyway back onto the crank, without having to replace the entire engine, or replace the crank.

What do you guys think about this? ... Thanks!