Paint Bleeding under mask.....

[Cobra_Daytona]

Hey guys, is there any way to correct a few spots where some red paint blead under the mask onto some white paint? I was spray painting, and sure enough when I peeled back the tape, I found a few spots where some red paint ran under the tape onto my nice crisp white line. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Michael

[freakray]

Welcome to AF

Whenever this has happened to me, I have carefully sanded the bleed areas off by wet sanding parallel to the line, then polishing the car back to a nice shine.
This is what has worked for me, but I would recommend you wait to see what other methods you can use too.

Ray

[Tricksterpan]

I don't know what kind of paint you are using, but when I paint the car body in laquers and I use acrylics on top and it bleeds, I just put some of the thinner on a brush and cover the area with thinner and use a Q-tip to clean up the paint. Don't konw if that helps you much, hope it does

[primera man]

What sort of tape are you using?
Tamiya tape is the best you can get as the bleed is almost nil.

After laying the tape down make sure you press the edge down really well.
The first coat is a VERY light mist coat...this will help to seal the tape edge. Repeat again.
Once you have done this you can then spray your model.
After each coat, hang the model up so that the paint will "flow" away from the taped edge if possible.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

I always spray a bit of clear first over the tape line. Even if I think the Tamiya tape line is perfectly burnished in place, the clear gives good insurance against color bleed through. If it bleeds, it's clear, and no big deal. Hit the tape edge w/a few passes of clear, then proceed to the second color. It's saved me mucho heartache

[Cobra_Daytona]

That's the funny part Primera, I was using the Tamiya tape that was supplied with the model. The model is the GT1, and when I used the tape that they supply for the front end, the red blead right onto the white. Thanks, everyone, for the tips on how to prevent this from happening in the future.

In any event I'm in the process of stripping the body right now, and I have to say that I'm very disappointed with Castrol Super Clean and its ability to strip the Tamiya paint from the plastic. It's been soaking for about 5 hours, and rubbed with a brush, but nothing has even begun to come off. I might try the brake flid trick that is also recommended by just about everyone. Otherwise I'll have to find a solvent that will get to the Tamiya Acrylic, but won't harm the plastic.


Thanks,
Michael

[CalsonicR34]

IF there are any contaminants on the Tamiya masking tape that will affect it the way it sticks. For example bits of dust partcles have attached themselfs to the edge of the tape.

[twoninety]

I read this somewhere (can't remember where tho)

Before painting proper, use your airbrush, spray the paint onto the edge of the mask so that the paint goes on almost dry (more air, less paint). I think you'll need a dual-action airbrush for this. This seals the edge of the mask and guards against bleeding.

Don't know if it works. I don't have an airbrush.

[daggerlee]

Another way is to spray a coat of clear over the masking tape first before the color coat. This way the only thing that bleeds is the clear coat which is invisible anyway!

[freakray]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I can tell you that CSC won't strip Tamiya lacquers, that is assuming you used Tamiya paints
I found that a good amount of the brake fluid used in the same way as CSC will remove Tamiya laquers, the good thing is that brake fluid doesn't need the rubber gloves though.
Let me know if there is more you need to know.

Ray

[Jonno]

If that is the Toyota GT-1 TS020, I also have that kit, I used the masking that came with the the kit and the paint seeped under. So I sanded the white off and used normal Tamiya maskng tape to mask it off and sprayed it again and it worked. I think it is just the masking in the kit.

[Cobra_Daytona]

Yup I just discovered that neither CRC, nor your average quart of Dexron Mercron 3 (for those not in the know that's brake fluid), will remove the Tamiya sprays. So it's on to purchase one container of Easy Off oven cleaner and some heavy duty rubber gloves.

I think that this model doesn't want to be built,however. Everything that can go wrong with this kit, has. Case in point; when I bought it the rear deck was cracked. The hobby store, nice folks that they are, wouldn't take it back because I took it home and opened it up. The guy actually told me he thought it was my fault. How the heck would I crack the engine cover? Tamiya made me buy an entire body sprew, at a cost which was almost what I paid for the model!!!! Now the front end paint is bleeding, won't strip (although I have a sneaking suspicion that the oven cleaner will do the job). So I go to the spare body that I bought from Tamiya, and decide to paint that while the other is soaking in brake fluid. With the sanding and priming done I go to paint on the white front. On the third, and final, coat of white paint a damned fly lands on the wet paint. It couldn't land on the dry primer, it had to hit the part which is only a few square inches in total area!!!!

So I've dubbed this model Christine. Originally Christine was a red and white Cadillac, this is a red and white car also. Coincidence? I think not....

Michael

[GTRRR]

When I painted my Silvia with Tamiya paint I masked off the areas with Tamiya tape and sure enough the paint bled right through. But on my next model it didnt bleed at all and I got a nice smooth line I'm guessing the tape is temperamental and it works when it wants too.

I used Nail Varnish Remover to strip the paint off the Silvia and it worked really well. I had to let it soak for a while for the paint to loosen up, but once it did the result was great.

Hope this helps.

[Jay!]

I have used CSC to remove Tamiya sprays in the past. I wonder what the difference is...

It seems to me that sometimes the paint or primer "etches" itself into the plastic more than others. Perhaps breaking through the paint layers (like sanding through the edges of a part, or scribing through the paint in panel lines) would give the CSC room to seep in between the paint and plastic, and let it do its slippery work.

[daggerlee]

Primer may definitely have something to do with it. I think the CSC gets in between the plastic and the primer, not the primer and the paint, so if you used a heavy duty corrosive primer then you may not have much luck.