1996 3.8 Stainless Valves

[Salemetro]

I've contacted both Ferrea and Manley looking for a set of low-cut stock-size stainless valves for my turbo 3.8 project. The heads are out being prepped for porting, and I need to source the valves pretty soon. Does anyone here have any idea who makes these "Readily available"??

Thanks.

[Savage Messiah]

Who is porting your heads? Is it a major company, loca shop, or local shadetree? Will you need stock sizing or bigger valves?

[Salemetro]

As far as what size I need, I'm open to suggestions. Using a Chevy Vortec 350 head as an example, these heads tend to flow best with a 2.00 intake and 1.57 exhaust ( if I remember correctly). Anything larger with them is just a waste, and actually hurts flow.

Being that this is my first build on a 3.8 series II, I am in relatively "New" territory. A local shop with an excellent reputation is doing the work, albeit without the use of a flow bench. I had a shop of my own for a few years, and do not take lightly letting someone else work on my vehicles in any way....so, it's safe to say that the shop doing the work has definitely EARNED my trust. Even so, I want to do as much research on my own as possible to make sure that this project turns out exactly the way that I want it to. So, all the above being said, I am open to suggestions...especially from those that have actually had port/valve work done to thier own 3.8 powered birds.

I do not plan to modify the bottom end in any fashion, other than possibly o-ring the block/heads and find a different cam. I have not played with Desktop Dyno yet to help determine a cam profile. Hope this all helps, so bring on the suggestions!

Thanks in advance to all that have constructive input.

[MrPbody]

SI Valves, Simi Valley, California (800) 343-4287, has them in standard length, with head diameters of 1.800, 1.840, 1.900 and 1.940" for the intakes, and 1.520 or 1.600" for exhaust. Stainless, 1-piece, swirl-polished. Good stuff, reasonable price.

The reason the "Vortec" heads stop flowing well with a larger valve has nothing to do with the heads. It's the diameter of the bore. Those heads work GREAT with 2.055 valves on a 400 block (1/8" larger bore).

I didn't see where you were planning a blower. If not, there's no reason to "O-ring" the block. Even with a 200-hit, good quality gaskets will hold. Use ARP bolts, if you can get them. If not, piece together from their (ARP) inventory, a set of studs.

Whether or not you trust this shop is not relevant to porting. Be certain they have a good port guy (or gal), that STUDIES, and doesn't just make 'em all look like Chevys. We run into this occasionally. The 3800 heads aren't very similar in design to the Chevy, so the roof, short turn and transition may need attention in different areas. I don't have a head here right now to study, so I can't be more specific.

Based on the bore size, if you're NOT supercharging, I would recommend no more than the 1.840" intake valve. Use the smaller exhaust valve. The bigger ones are for heads with massive port work, a larger bore and a blower (either mechanical or turbo).

Good engines, these 3800s....

Jim

[Salemetro]

Many thanks for the information. I'll be calling them soon.
As far as force-fed.... yes, I plan on seeing how much boost I can get away with using just the stock internals in the bottom end. It should be fun.

[Savage Messiah]

Good, experianced guy to talk to about this is Lance Abbott... www.abbottracingheads.com

The other company with lots of experience with these engines is ZZP. In your research you may also come across Intense Racing, I'd stay away from them. Very bad rep in terms of both customer service and quality.

[Salemetro]

Just a note of thanks to MrPbody.

Thanks for the contact info! I can't believe what a great deal these guys at SI were able to do for me. I ended up paying $10.50 each for the valves. Definitely a "reasonable price"

The heads should be back by the end of this month, then on to the rest of the conversion. Thanks again!