changing the front discs..

z24forlife · #1 01-31-2007, 01:05 PM

hello there you guys Id like to know, because i wanna change my front discs.. I know I need to remove the caliper... Now I have a 2002 z24.. and, id like to know what tool do i need to remove the caliper.. is it a torx and, what size ##.. also I noticed when i speed a little and press the brake I can feel the pedal jump just a little.. So im guessing this is the rotors starting to go.. Now I called for the price and, seems acceptable as they are about 45.00$$ can each.. So im ok with changing those, but seriously do I need to change the pads too or can I wait for those.. The pads look brand new.. Just trying to save couple bucks here..

Evilmonkey1177 · #2 01-31-2007, 03:15 PM

The caliper pins on my 2001 Z24 are 3/8 hex key I think. If you are changing the rotors you should seriously consider getting new pads too. My rotors were warped a lot so I changed the rotors and pads just to be safe. But if you have a lot of life still in the pads then keep them as long as the old rotors weren't warped.

z24forlife · #3 01-31-2007, 03:35 PM

I dont think they are seriously warped... but i do feel them when i stop a little... but this is only because im to picky... The discs are also still fine but, i do know that if im speeding at around 120kms highway and, apply the brakes then i can feel my pedal moving a little. So this means that they are beginning to warp.. at lower speeds its ok.. Do you know of a good place to get good rotors for cheap priced.. ????

muff34 · #4 01-31-2007, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z24forlife

I dont think they are seriously warped... but i do feel them when i stop a little... but this is only because im to picky... The discs are also still fine but, i do know that if im speeding at around 120kms highway and, apply the brakes then i can feel my pedal moving a little. So this means that they are beginning to warp.. at lower speeds its ok.. Do you know of a good place to get good rotors for cheap priced.. ????

I just did pads and rotors on my 2000 sunfire and re did rear drums also ,still get a bit of vibration when appyling the brakes With moderate to heavy pressure when braking from highway speeds. Just chalking it up to ABS issues . As for a cheap price just remember you get what you pay for, if you are picky as you say then you should likely spend a bit more for Quality parts .Just my

z24forlife · #5 01-31-2007, 03:58 PM

Ok so are you saying its ABS related..??? So does this mean it to be more serious..??? I dont know.. (

)... altho I noticed my car feeling alot different with the colder weather here in Montreal, Canada.. in the summer my car goes great without any serious symptoms showing up.. Strange huh ??!!?

muff34 · #6 01-31-2007, 04:07 PM

I am not saying yours is an ABS issue, just what I have done and found with my car . I bought el cheapo rotors and did notice that vibration was cut way down to practically nothing . I ruled out rear drums because they were not cheap. My abs light does not come on signaling a problem ,but with age and miles figured in it could have something to do with abs system. Ya it`s cold in northern Ontario also.....LOL .I hate winter, stuff breaks .......lol

z24forlife · #7 01-31-2007, 04:16 PM

I dont know... should I keep driving with it like that ??? Can this damage the calipers ??? Sould I change the rotors first and test... damn cars cost a fortune..

Classicrocjunkie · #8 01-31-2007, 08:17 PM

If you feel vibration in the pedal its from your rear brakes, if its in your steering wheel its from your front brakes. Just changed them both out. Then you won't have to do it again for another 30K miles or so. Also don't be whailin on them once you install them, you have to slowly heat them up so any stress can be relived out of the rotors from the forging process.

z24forlife · #9 01-31-2007, 11:56 PM

Ok this is strange because tonight I drove a hell of alot and, my brakes seem to be going well.. My pedal was smooth all night... could all of these symptoms im getting be related to the weather here..??? Its pretty cold here.. way way below zero... my brake pads and, shoes still got along way to go... Id say my front brakes are worn at about 20% and, the back are worn at about 15%... my hand brake works well cuz i adjusted it couple weeks ago... it catches tight at about 5 to 6 clicks when i pull my lever.

muff34 · #10 02-01-2007, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z24forlife

Ok this is strange because tonight I drove a hell of alot and, my brakes seem to be going well.. My pedal was smooth all night... could all of these symptoms im getting be related to the weather here..??? Its pretty cold here.. way way below zero... my brake pads and, shoes still got along way to go... Id say my front brakes are worn at about 20% and, the back are worn at about 15%... my hand brake works well cuz i adjusted it couple weeks ago... it catches tight at about 5 to 6 clicks when i pull my lever.

What`s that saying If it`s not broke don`t mess with it or is it if it`s not broke fuck with it until it is..........LOL .Maybe wait until weather warms up see what Happens . That is of course you are comfortable with as is . Doesn`t sound like to much of an issue if vibes are minimal. And if you do the brake job be sure to retorque the wheels as improper wheel torque apparently has an effect on rotors as well.

z24forlife · #11 02-01-2007, 01:27 PM

Ok as for torking the wheel bolts... id did overtork them as i used a longer pipe with my rachet set... figuring I dont want to loose my wheels in the winter..

muff34 · #12 02-01-2007, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z24forlife

Ok as for torking the wheel bolts... id did overtork them as i used a longer pipe with my rachet set... figuring I dont want to loose my wheels in the winter..

Problem one ....That`s hard on the ratchet ...LOL Problem two ,not likely getting correct torque on each nut and could possibly over stress the studs . just use the wheel wrench Without the pipe . Torquing is ideal but not many people have a torque wrench kicking around in the trunk . the idea of proper torque on front wheels is so that you don`t contribute to warping the rotors as well as keeping the wheels on .

z24forlife · #13 02-01-2007, 02:07 PM

thank you... youv been of great help man..

JaredH · #14 03-22-2007, 08:47 PM

The tool is a T55 socket and can be found at any auto parts store. (It is a star socket.)

shakewell · #15 03-22-2007, 10:47 PM

Ill try to offer some insight here:

The only reasons to change the rotors are - if they are under spec (too thin), warped (pulsating while braking), or badly rusted/worn. Based on what you are saying they don't need to be replaced because the symptoms won't be intermittent. If they are warped, they stay warped.

Next, you must always, always, always torque your wheels to the correct spec. Always. Over torquing the lugs is the easiest way to ruin rotors. Also, not torquing each lug consistently to the others will ruin the rotor. Not to mention the fact that you'll be able to remove the wheels on the side of the road if you need to later. Buy a 1/2" drive torque wrench - if you plan on working on your car, you'll need one. You should also torque the caliper mounting brackets if you change the rotors.

Also, make sure the rear shoes are adjusted properly. If they are too loose or unadjusted, the shoes will pitch out when you brake causing them to catch the drum in an unnatural way and locking up the rear wheels sooner than the fronts under moderate or heavy brake pressure.

Hope that helps some.

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