Car noob 99 Camry Coolant Leak

[Probot2007]

Okay so we recently had our radiator, hoses and thermostat replaced due to a cracked radiator which resulted in a overheat. We got it all repaired and sorted but a day later the engine check light comes back on and i notice something leaking around the middle of the car. There is a noticable loss in coolant (about 2 weeks from full to low). What I want to know is..is this goign to be a another costly repair? Or is this something I can fix myself. Also the didn't tell us what coolant they used so I can't top it up and the place is closed on weekends.

I intend to get it fixed on Monday but I dont want them to pull one over on me.

EDIT: Its a 99 Le (4 cylinder) sorry about that!

[RIP]

Worst case you may have cracked the head when the car overheated. Since you aren't saying you have any other driveability issues like slow acceleration, stalling, or misfires I would put a cracked head down on the list. Cost would be around $1000.

Next would be a blown head gasket. It's likely you would see some of the above issues but not necessarily. White vapor out the tailpipe is a sign. Oil in the coolant is a sign. Cost would be around $300 if the head is in good shape.

A leaking freeze plug in the engine block would give you nothing more than what you say you are seeing ie, a leak puddling under the engine and lowering coolant levels. Cost around $100 - 300 depending on where the plug is.

From there you would go to heater hoses or a leak from an improperly installed radiator hose or thermostat housing or even the radiator. Cost $100for the heater hoses and the rest free under the warranty.

You should be able to trace this leak down yourself but, since you just had the system worked on I would take it back to where the work was done. Would have been better if you took it back right away.

The SE light is telling you there is a fail code set in the ECU (computer). Autozone will connect a DRBII scanner and read the code for you for free. This code could give a clue to your leak. As for the fluid, if it's green, blue or yellow it's normal coolant. If it's orange or maybe purple, it's long life coolant. Any brand will do. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

[Probot2007]

Originally Posted by RIP

Worst case you may have cracked the head when the car overheated. Since you aren't saying you have any other driveability issues like slow acceleration, stalling, or misfires I would put a cracked head down on the list. Cost would be around $1000.

Next would be a blown head gasket. It's likely you would see some of the above issues but not necessarily. White vapor out the tailpipe is a sign. Oil in the coolant is a sign. Cost would be around $300 if the head is in good shape.

A leaking freeze plug in the engine block would give you nothing more than what you say you are seeing ie, a leak puddling under the engine and lowering coolant levels. Cost around $100 - 300 depending on where the plug is.

From there you would go to heater hoses or a leak from an improperly installed radiator hose or thermostat housing or even the radiator. Cost $100for the heater hoses and the rest free under the warranty.

You should be able to trace this leak down yourself but, since you just had the system worked on I would take it back to where the work was done. Would have been better if you took it back right away.

The SE light is telling you there is a fail code set in the ECU (computer). Autozone will connect a DRBII scanner and read the code for you for free. This code could give a clue to your leak. As for the fluid, if it's green, blue or yellow it's normal coolant. If it's orange or maybe purple, it's long life coolant. Any brand will do. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

Thanks man after closer inspection ie when im fully awake. it seems like the coolant is around the halfway mark not low as i previously stated. The liquid seems to drip only when the air is on so im ruling out a coolant leak for now. Would they have filled the coolant resivour up to full or around halfway like it states in the user manual?

I'm taking it to autozone to get the reading. I would have taken it back right away but it seems like i was overreacting. Also the work under guarantee so i can get it fixed for free.

I have some pre mixed 50/50 coolant so is it fine to put that in?

[RIP]

Yes your 50/50 is ok as long as you are not mixing long life and normal life ie, change it every other year type coolant. Whatever color the coolant in the car is, put the same in to top it off. As long as the level is above the cold mark when the engine is cold you're good. When it's hot, the level should increase but not over the hot mark.

[DFBonnett]

Originally Posted by Probot2007

The liquid seems to drip only when the air is on

What color is the liquid?

[Probot2007]

Hey guys I took my car to be checked out by the garage a few weeks back but they said there was no leak nor any problem with the engine. The car is running fine.

However I checked the coolant level yeaterday and it was pretty low so I topped it up a little, I checked it this morning when the engine was cool and hot and the level was still low. There is no visible leak, the only liquid is coming from the Air conditioning and its clear.

This is starting to annoy me now because there is obviously something wrong for the coolant level to be consistantly low. Also i noticed a little coolant on the top of the radiator too.

[Mike Gerber]

"Also i noticed a little coolant on the top of the radiator too."

This could be from a bad radiator cap. It may no longer be holding the proper pressure. This should be a cheap fix that you can do yourself. Get a new cap at the dealer or any aftermarket store and put it on when the car is cold. Then refill the coolant to the full mark and drive it around for a few days. If the coolant level is still going down, take it back to the shop that did the initial repairs and have them check it out.

Mike

[Probot2007]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

"Also i noticed a little coolant on the top of the radiator too."

This could be from a bad radiator cap. It may no longer be holding the proper pressure. This should be a cheap fix that you can do yourself. Get a new cap at the dealer or any aftermarket store and put it on when the car is cold. Then refill the coolant to the full mark and drive it around for a few days. If the coolant level is still going down, take it back to the shop that did the initial repairs and have them check it out.

Mike

Thanks man but after another quick look over I noticed a lot of coolant at the bottom of the radiator too, it wasn't leaking onto the floor though only like 2 drips. But right at the botton of the radiator grill (inside, just behind the fans) I noticed there a bit there, im hoping its the pipe and not the radiator.

[somick]

Probot, antfreeze at bottom of radiator is another evidence of a leak. Like Mike said get another radiator cap. It costs only around 6 dollars.

If it still leaks take it back to the shop.


Sam

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by Probot2007

Thanks man but after another quick look over I noticed a lot of coolant at the bottom of the radiator too, it wasn't leaking onto the floor though only like 2 drips. But right at the botton of the radiator grill (inside, just behind the fans) I noticed there a bit there, im hoping its the pipe and not the radiator.

It could be leaking down from the top of the radiator, again due to a faulty cap. Get a new cap, if only to rule out the cap.

Mike

[Probot2007]

I was running short on time today so I had to take to the Garage but you were right it was the radiator cap. I got them to thouroughly check it this time.

However they did find a problem with the Power Steering Fluid Pump. Apparently its leaking quite badly, now my question to you guys is: It this somehting I can patch up myself? Or do I need to have them change it?

[DFBonnett]

If the seals in the PS pump are gone you can't patch it, it has to be replaced. Verify that it isn't a loose connection.
All that being said, my old Ford van developed a leaky seal and I put in some cheap Solder Seal PS sealer from KMart which did the trick. You might want to give that a shot.
FWIW
YMMV

[Brian R.]

Try torqueing the fittings on the pump to specifications. Sometimes it's the fittings that are leaking from working loose through vibration. After that, the most likely leaker is the pressure hose.

[Probot2007]

Originally Posted by DFBonnett

If the seals in the PS pump are gone you can't patch it, it has to be replaced. Verify that it isn't a loose connection.
All that being said, my old Ford van developed a leaky seal and I put in some cheap Solder Seal PS sealer from KMart which did the trick. You might want to give that a shot.
FWIW
YMMV

I'll give it a go!!

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Try torqueing the fittings on the pump to specifications. Sometimes it's the fittings that are leaking from working loose through vibration. After that, the most likely leaker is the pressure hose.

I'll try that too. Give me a few days and i'll post back!

[JOET/CAMRY]

Originally Posted by Probot2007

However they did find a problem with the Power Steering Fluid Pump. Apparently its leaking quite badly, now my question to you guys is: It this somehting I can patch up myself? Or do I need to have them change it?

check out this thread..
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=680494

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY