idler arm rebuild?

[drdd]

Hello. I've got a 97 Jimmy. My idler arm is starting to wear and cause a pretty big pull to the right. I can make it move by pushing and pulling on it.

Anyhow, my question is, can an idler arm be rebuilt?

I know it's fairly cheap to replace the whole thing, I was just wondering if anyone had done this.

[JoulesWinfield]

Ive never herd of anyone rebuilding one.

[DelCoch]

No they are not rebuildable as the two main metal parts is what wears out. Why even think of trying to rebuild when a new cheap idler is only 20 bucks and the new expensive ones run from 30 to 50 bucks.

The problem may not be in the idler arm - they all will have a little movement - here's how to check it.

Proper procedure for checking an idler arm for looseness or wear.

• The suspension should be normally loaded on the ground or on an alignment rack. When raised by a frame contact hoist, the vehicle's steering linkage is allowed to hang, and proper testing cannot be done.

• Jerking the front wheel and tire assembly back and forth (causing an up- and down-movement in the idler arm) is not an acceptable method of checking, as there is no control on the amount of force being applied.

• Check the idler arm ends for worn sockets or deteriorated bushings.

• Grasp the center link firmly with your hand at the idler arm end.

• Push up with approximately a 25-pound (110 N) load.

• Pull down with the same load.

• The allowable movement of the idler arm and support assembly in one direction is 1/8 inch (3 mm), for a total acceptable movement of 1/4 inch (6 mm).

• The load can be accurately measured by using a dial indicator or pull spring scale located as near the center link end of the idler arm as possible.

• Keep in mind that the test forces should not exceed 25 pounds (110 N), as even a new idler arm might be forced to show movement due to steel flexing when excessive pressure is applied.

• It is also necessary that a scale or ruler be rested against the frame and used to determine the amount of movement.

• Observers tend to overestimate the actual movement when a scale is not used.

The idler arm should always be replaced if it fails this test.


Center Links - may also be called a Drag Link, Connecting Arm or Steering Arm Rod.

• When inspecting the center link, look closely to insure it has not been bent or damaged.
• Grasp the center link firmly and try moving it in all directions.
• Any movement, or sign of damage, is reason for replacement.
• Tapered openings seldom wear but should be checked for enlargement caused by a loose connection. If necessary, replace the center link.

Tie-rod end

• Tie-rod end and center link inspections are similar.
• Grasp the tie-rod end firmly.
• Push vertically with the stud, and inspect for movement at the joint with the steering knuckle.

• Any movement over 1/8 inch (3 mm) or observation of damaged or missing parts, such as seals, is sufficient evidence that replacement is necessary.

• An additional check of the tie-rods can be made by rotating each tie-rod end to feel for roughness or binding, which could indicate that the socket has probably rusted internally. A special puller is often required to separate a tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.