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  #1  
Old 01-19-2007, 09:04 PM
ezdavie ezdavie is offline
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Thumbs up PASS-Key II

It's always somethun!!

Thanks for the info on my last post. I replaced the thermostat and all is well. For two days anyway 2001 Lumina 3.1 153,000 mi 30mpg I luv this carNew problem is the "Security" light on dash remains lit. I am sure this has absolutely nothing to do with the very recent thermostat replacement. The manual says to try another set of keys. No help, still remains on while driving.

Any suggestions.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:13 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

lock cylinder or wiring is probably culprit. The wires in the cylinder get weak and break from being flexed from accessory, off, on, start over the years. You can bypass this system alltogether fairly easy which leaves your car vulnerable. If it were me, i'd try replacing the lock cylinder, (dealer only), and then you have to get new keys cut that turn the lock cylinder and have the same resistance as the old keys. Not sure how much a cylindeer is going to bo, but each key to have cut will cost probably close too 30.00.
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:43 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Are you that much in love with your car that a bypass won't cut it for you?Do you live in or go to that kind of nieghbourhood?Hell it don't even matter.If they want it.it's gone.Find someone or read about the bypass way and be done with it.It was all GM's way of looking like they cared about you and your car.Very lame in my opinion.
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:42 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedtech
Are you that much in love with your car that a bypass won't cut it for you?Do you live in or go to that kind of nieghbourhood?Hell it don't even matter.If they want it.it's gone.Find someone or read about the bypass way and be done with it.It was all GM's way of looking like they cared about you and your car.Very lame in my opinion.
I know of very few street theives with the sophistication to get around a VATS or PASS key system. It was meant to defeat the simplicity of cracking the column with a screwdriver and pulling the rods and driving away...which it does nicely.

They don't steal Luminas with rollback wreckers, so your assessment isn't really valid....if it doesn't start within 15 seconds of breaking into it, most car theives are moving on to the next one...95% are just punks, and like I said, the other 5% that are pros aren't out boosting Luminas for profit.

Last edited by jeffcoslacker; 01-20-2007 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 01-20-2007, 10:54 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedtech
Are you that much in love with your car that a bypass won't cut it for you?Do you live in or go to that kind of nieghbourhood?Hell it don't even matter.If they want it.it's gone.Find someone or read about the bypass way and be done with it.It was all GM's way of looking like they cared about you and your car.Very lame in my opinion.

If you were directing that comment to me.... I have already bypassed it. I have remote start installed, and rater buy the $50.00 GM bypass module, I just bought the 50 cent resistor from radioshack.

I was just saying that because I have no idea what kind of neighborhood he lives in. Mine here, auto theft never happens.

BTW, I am that in love with my car, thank you very much, and if you have a problem with that, come and steal it. The pass-key system is disabled, but shhhh dont tell anyone.
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2007, 11:35 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezdavie
It's always somethun!!

Thanks for the info on my last post. I replaced the thermostat and all is well. For two days anyway 2001 Lumina 3.1 153,000 mi 30mpg I luv this carNew problem is the "Security" light on dash remains lit. I am sure this has absolutely nothing to do with the very recent thermostat replacement. The manual says to try another set of keys. No help, still remains on while driving.

Any suggestions.
You are lucky if it still runs.
It is telling you to check it out and fix it.
Proper testing to find the problem.
A good engine capable scanner should pin point the problem or a ohm meter on the ign switch wiring can test that part.

Pass key R 11 anti theft system

Turn key to on position...don't start...watch security light...it should go out after 5 seconds if it stays on you have a Passkey problem.

If it stays on, remove the lower hush panel on driver's side look for an orange sheath (containing 2 white wires) harness coming down the column it will lead to a black connector...disconnect it...use an ohm meter, and measure resistance of pellet on the key. Now insert the key in the lock cylinder.
Now attach the ohm meter to the half of the connector that is going up the column
It should read the resistance of the key if it reads OL or infinite.
One of the wires leading up to the lock cylinder is broken.

You either replace the lock cylinder, or you attach a resistor (same as key), to the other half of the black connector (the half leading away from column)
If a no start it is.
Because the Passkey module is not receiving the correct key resistance.
It is not sending a fuel enable signal to the PCM
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2007, 09:58 PM
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Re: PASS-Key II

The previous post has the correct answers to your fix. Around here, people rather pay me $50 to bypass the system than to pay $200 to replace the ignition cyl.. The sad thing is that if you do CORRECTLY replace the cyl. and all is fine, it's just a temporary fix because over time, the new unit will fail too. Doing the resistor inline is a more effective way on bypassing. True, bypassing it makes it easier to steal but even so, if someone wants it bad enough, they'll get it no matter what. 20 years ago when the VATS system first came out it was effective but only for about the first 18 months it was out on the market. Almost ANY OEM security is a joke. I mean if it wasn't, how would people like me that own a shop that specializes in remote starters ever be able to work on such cars????
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2007, 07:29 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Like I said...it only has to defeat the bonehead with the screwdriver who wants wheels to do a driveby with or "rent"...sophisticated car theives don't bother with low-end passenger vehicles.

The other industry is chop shop, but again the key is being able to drive away within 15 seconds or less of gaining entry into the car...if it's common knowlege that on certain models there is a system you need to defeat to get the car started, they won't bother, if they are familiar with it....

So even if you bypass, the system still protects your car from theft to some degree, if only by reputation.

The sad thing now is: if they want a car to drive, few bother with the aggravation of trying to break into one, then try to get it to run...they just stick a gun in your face at a red light or in the mall parking lot and take it, keys and all...no security system will protect you from that approach...
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:22 PM
ezdavie ezdavie is offline
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Re: PASS-Key II

Quote:
Originally Posted by MT-2500
You are lucky if it still runs.
It is telling you to check it out and fix it.
Proper testing to find the problem.
A good engine capable scanner should pin point the problem or a ohm meter on the ign switch wiring can test that part.

Pass key R 11 anti theft system

Turn key to on position...don't start...watch security light...it should go out after 5 seconds if it stays on you have a Passkey problem.

If it stays on, remove the lower hush panel on driver's side look for an orange sheath (containing 2 white wires) harness coming down the column it will lead to a black connector...disconnect it...use an ohm meter, and measure resistance of pellet on the key. Now insert the key in the lock cylinder.
Now attach the ohm meter to the half of the connector that is going up the column
It should read the resistance of the key if it reads OL or infinite.
One of the wires leading up to the lock cylinder is broken.

You either replace the lock cylinder, or you attach a resistor (same as key), to the other half of the black connector (the half leading away from column)
If a no start it is.
Because the Passkey module is not receiving the correct key resistance.
It is not sending a fuel enable signal to the PCM


OK - here goes. I have disconnected the black connector on the "orange" harness that has two white wires in it. I get "nothing" on the ohm meter. zippo! So, I presume that I have at least one bad wire in there.

The twist is coming!! With the column wiring disconnected and no bypass installed, I am able to start and run the car with no obvious problems occurring. Been operating for two days in this mode. So, i'm thinking maybe a fuse - i find a couple titled something to do with "Anti Theft." However, they all have continuity (haven't used that word in a while )

Do I have a problem? Is it masked by something else? Need I be concerned?

Any ideas/sugguestions - I am open to suggestion. Thanks for all the previous comments.

The key hit the meter at 4.75 k ohm
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2007, 09:37 PM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Well, until the BCM decides to actually do something, yes you can run it like that but for how long???? Who knows. You should have the light on the dash though. If the key metered out to that, I'd get a resistor(s) and put in inline on the wires going to the BCM to be on the safe side of things.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:02 PM
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Re: PASS-Key II

My security light has been on for 2 years now. The GM manual says to check the wiring to the bulb and make sure they aren't grounded. If the wiring checks out, the VATS box needs replaced. I'm not paying $100+ when I can just remove the bulb. Besides, I'm installing a remote start soon since it's gotten cold. I say ignore the light or remove it...
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2007, 12:38 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

yes then one day your car doesnt start. I was playing with a gm one day and a blank key cut to work that did not have a resistor in it. The funny thing was the fact that if the car started and ran just fine with the blank key only if you had remote unlocked the doors with the key fob, the security light would be lit however. When i tried just unlocking with my key without the fob, the security light would start rapidly flashing, and the car would not run.

Maybe try locking your doors with the key fob, then unlock using the key, open the door and try to start your car. see what happens.
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2007, 08:00 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

hmm, interesting. I'm not aware of the VATS and a OEM keyless being interconnected. I do remote starters for a living so I've messed with a lot of PK and VATS cars
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2007, 08:38 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchonutty
hmm, interesting. I'm not aware of the VATS and a OEM keyless being interconnected. I do remote starters for a living so I've messed with a lot of PK and VATS cars
Most AM security systems with starter or fuel interrupt will only reset after cycling the locks with the remote....

The OEM system might accept a remote unlock as an override as well, I never tried...
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2007, 11:27 AM
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Re: PASS-Key II

give it a shot. Have a blank key cut at wal-mart for 2 bucks. Then try what I said.
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