96 Dodge Caravan Wont start PLEASE HELP!!

[junya808]

I got a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan.. My wife was driving home,then it just died. Now it doesnt want to start. It just cranks and cranks but wont start, even when I give it gas it still wont start.. Can anyone please help me out here. I greatly appreciate it

[RIP]

I'll assume you don't want to get too deep into troubleshooting. If that's not the case let us know. What size engine? Are you getting a Service Engine light on the dash?

The basics. Got to have spark, fuel, and timing for the engine to start and run. The fuel pump may be at fault. The pump is inside the fuel tank. Take a rubber mallet or similar and tap on the tank while someone cranks the engine. If it starts, you'll need a new fuel pump. If you hear a humm from the tank, the pump is running. Remove a spark plug wire and ground the contact against the valve cover and crank the engine. You're looking for a healthy bluish spark. No spark? Your coil may be bad.

If you're not getting spark and fuel (can you smell it?) it's likely the Automatic Shutdown Relay is energised and cutting off power to the fuel pump and ignition coil. This relay usually energises when the crankshaft sensor fails to send a signal. We'll get to that after you check the basics.

[junya808]

Its a 3.3 motor. I tired the code thing, and I got a code 12 and 61. I can smell fuel when I do try to start it so I'm thinkg its not the fuel pump.. Also theres no service engine light on. Before it would go on then just go away after a while. This was before the van just died. Any suggestions I would greatly appreiciate it

[RIP]

12 just means you disconnected the battery sometime within the last 100 key cycles. 61 is a MAP sensor failure and can very well be your problem. The Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor is located on the intake manifold plenum. It senses vacuum pressure and is used to determine fuel-air mixture ratios and engine timing. Piece of cake to change (two bolts and a connector) but I would check the connector for corrosion and inspect the wires to it first.

This is a starting point. You aren't getting a hard failure so other causes need to be considered. The MAP sensor circuit is a good place to start. You might consider going to Autozone and have them check codes with a DRB II scanner. It may give you more detailed info. It's free.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801a401e.jsp Click on diagrams to blow them up.

[junya808]

ok. So the map sensor can actualy prevent the van from starting?
I would do the auto zone thing but it going to be hard to get the van there if I cant get it started..Thanks for the info

[RIP]

Ya kinda tough. Know anyone with a scanner. They can be had for $80.

Many times when a MAP sensor is failing it causes hesitation or stalling. I have read they can cause starting problems. This is one example. Not the best example. Not completely applicable to your van but, same subject. Read the answer http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-...nt-start-2.htm

[junya808]

Ok.I jumped in the van this morning and it sarted right up,but now the service engine light is flashing and the van is idling kinda rough..Should I still look into replacing the MAP sensor???Thanks

[RIP]

MAP sensors cost $70-100 so I'm a little leary about recommending you change it if your van now starts. This sensor could be the culprit or it may not. I'd hate to see you blow some bux without seeing a little more proof this is the cause of your starting problem.

I would take some time and make sure your van continues to start. Can you expand on the "flashing" SE light. The only time it should flash is when the diagnostic test is running. If it's flashing all the time you have another problem. Can you also expand on running rough? Is it like a cylinder isn't firing or more of a surge. A surge indicates a vacuum leak and that could be the cause of your code 61.

If you want to jump on it and change the sensor I would idealy first try doing the tests described in the Autozone link. Short of that, at least follow my first suggestions about the sensor. Double check any vacuum lines and make sure there's no cracks etc.

[junya808]

The SE light was blinking off and on while the van was running..The idling is like its almost going to die out then I'll give it some gas and it'll be ok..It just doesnt idle the same since it died out yesterday..Thanks

[RIP]

Once you are sure the van will continue to start disconnect the battery a couple minutes and reconnect it. While you're at it make sure the battery connections are clean. This will reset the Powertrain Control Module and hopefully get rid of your flashing SE light.

This is sounding more like a simple vacuum leak. Look at the vacuum lines on the EGR system, brake booster, cruise control etc. Spray brake cleaner around the base of intake plenum and listen for RPM changes. If the plenum gasket leaks you lose vacuum. A vacuum leak can effect the baro pressure the MAP sensor senses.

[junya808]

ok here we go again. I did the code thing again and I'm getting codes 12,43,61,43 I listened to the motor, and it sounds like a tattoo machine going off in the valve cover or fuel rail or maybe even from the injectors. It getts faster as I gas the van, but goes away if I gas it high enough..I did a test drive and the van runs like crap alot of power loss. I'm assuming cylinder misfire. How can I fix that?? Will disconnecting the battery for a while do the job?? Thanks for the help!!!

[RIP]

Yup, 43 is a problem with any one of three primary circuits in the ignition coil. You need a DRB scanner to determine which circuit. One thing to remember though is just because a particular code says a component or circuit is failing doesn't necessarily mean that component or that circuit is at fault. Something external can be creating the condition. We all wish it was more black and white but, not the case.
The reason I'm saying this is you are getting two fault codes that can be potentially caused by vacuum leaks. Your symptoms indicate the same ie, sagging idle, hard starting, and having to press on the gas etc. Try what I suggested earlier. I need to research this a bit more. I'll be back. I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it and hoping. Might come to that but, not yet.

Have you had any maintenance done recently before all this started? Got your email.

Here's one example of a misfire caused by something external:http://www.autotap.com/articles/Engine_Misfire_UC.html

[RIP]

Can't find squat. So...disconnect the battery and clear the codes. You never know. When they come back, first, do your best to find a vacuum leak as I stated before. Make sure the wiring and connector on the MAP sensor are good. Do the electrical tests on the MAP sensor to make an attempt to prove it's bad. If nothing comes up get a new sensor and try it.

As for the code 43 it would be best if you connected a scanner and got the code for which coil in the pack is triggering the misfire. The coil pack on a 3.3 has three seperate coils, each fires two spark plugs. If one coil is generating the code, it's likely a bad coil pack. If two coils are generating the code, there could be any number of causes. Short of all this check all the connections on the coil for security and corrosion. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801a3a74.jsp Figure 3

As I said before, this can be one of those problems where you throw money at it and it's still broke. I can't be sure of anything from hundreds of miles away. Might be best to find a reliable shop and let them diagnose it. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and hope for the best. I've been there many times.

Other possibility is a bad fuel injector. They are electrically actuated and the solenoids can wear over time. If you disconnect one and the roughness doesn't change then the injector is toast.

[RIP]

A little more info :http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...aravan+misfire

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...aravan+misfire

If you try checking for a vacuum leak around the intake manifold/plenum gasket use brake fluid instead of carb cleaner. Probably safer.

[junya808]

Hey rip
Ok brought the van down to checker auto got the thing scanned came up with coil c misfirng and map sensor bd. So I changed the 2. Van seems to be running a little better, but really sluggish. Idling real low..When I drove up a hill punch the gas a little rpms up to 4000, but car just aint got the power. Seems to be sputtering when I take off from a complete stop. Tried looking for a vaccum leak but maybe I'm not looking good enough..I also didi the code thing and got 12,43. Now I;m really frustrated with this thing...Please help thanks!!!!