94 Camry hesitation

[XavierAlexander]

After a pretty "extensive" search, I still cannot figure this out. I just bought this Camry LE a month ago and after the engine warms up to normal operating temperature, The engine will not go above 2700 RPM. If you try, the engine just bogs down. I have replaced the fuel filter, plugs. air filter, Coolant Temp Sensor, Cleans throttle best I could and vacuum checked the EGR valve and that seemed correct. It also idles slightly rougher than a normal car. Check engine sometimes comes on, but I cannot get the jumper thing to work to access the codes. It is the v6 engine. Please someone help...
I don't want to have to put to much into this car, As My last used car "deal" wound up costing me 3500 more than the car was worth. <--- Dumb

[RIP]

The key could be the codes you can't read. There are two test plugs. One is under the dash near the steering column and another under the hood on the passenger side. You can jumper the pins with a paperclip. What happens when you try it?

I would try two things. A week fuel pump won't keep up with the demands you put on it. It can handle warmup and idling with no load but, demand to much and it can't keep up. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the pump pressure. Second, check the basic timing. Hesitation and poor acceleartion and a rough idle are all signs of retarded timing. The timing belt may have slipped or the distributor (if there is one) may have loosened up or any number of reasons.

Have you got a maintenance manual to follow? A Haynes or Chiltons or online factory manuals at Alldata.com work great. Could keep you from spinning your wheels and guaranteed to save you money in short order.

[XavierAlexander]

It is late and I can't sleep, So I ran to the garage to try the paper clip jumper and the engine light does not blink. It lights up as the rest do when the ignition goes on and after start up, it goes off like everything else. Maybe a ECM issue perhaps? If so, how can someone check that? I will check the timing in the morning after everyone wakes up or I will get one of these:

[don24mac]

Possibly ignition coils. My 90 went through two sets. One at 70,000 and again at about 140,000. The coils had visible burn marks. I finally figured out why, too. When a compression check was done, the coils were left connected and weren't grounded out so the spark, needing somewhere to go, burned through the insulation on the coils.

Before I traced it to the coils, it had similar symptoms like you describe. Check and see if the spark at the plugs looks weak. Should be strong and bright blue, not weak and yellowish. Check all six sparkplugs.

Also check to make sure the spark is advancing as the RPM increases (use a timing light).

[XavierAlexander]

Still nothing that I can figure out. I removed the EGR valve and extensively cleaned that. I was reading that upon attempting to read codes with the paperclip trick and cannot get a code that the ECM may be bad. My question would be, would my issue of after warming up to operating temperature and then bucking upon hitting passing gear, be an ECM issue? Or should I probably find an ECM and then be able to read the codes before anything else? I have measured the coils with an OHM meter and they check out okay. Thisw engine is the 1MZFE, 1994, so it is the OBDI setup I guess and nobody around here can read it for free.

[DFBonnett]

It certainly seems like the ignition is failing under load. You might try pulling the distributor cap and checking for signs of any oil, corrosion etc. Also check the rotor. The wires may have failed due to mileage or age. In the dark, try misting the wires and cap with a spray bottle, looking for arcing.

[Brian R.]

Take it to Autozone to get the codes read, or buy an OBDII tester. The 1MZ-FE V6 '94 Camry (not the 5S-FE 4 cylinder) was an OBDII vehicle. The jumper is only able to be used on OBDI systems. It won't allow you to access the codes on your vehicle.

Check the '94 Camry manual that is linked to in the sticky post at the top of this forum. See pages EG2-400 to EG2-416. Troubleshooting procedures for DTCs are found starting on page EG2-444.

[Mike Gerber]

You don't say how many miles are on this car, but in addition to what Brian and the otheres have suggested I would try disconnecting the cat converter and taking the car for a ride. The coverter may be broken up inside causing it to restrict flow through it. You can't leave the car like this, but it is a good test for converter restrictions. If it proves to be the problem, you can go out and purchase an aftermarket converter.

Mike

[Brian R.]

Also, check fuel pressure and volume. May be your pump is bad. First of all, check the codes. There is very little that can be wrong with your ignition or fuel management that your codes won't display at least a hint.

[XavierAlexander]

The car has about 138,000 miles. I just stopped at an Autozone and thier OBD II reader is just like the Advanced Auto I had stopped at. The adapter that fits onto the plug is triangular shaped and the plug on the car is rectangular. And the plug underneath the dash doesn't even come close. Well thanks for informing me that the pin trick doesn't work, So I can pretty much rule out the ECM. Beacuse on some ocassions the Light will come on, but later go off. At least until I run the test from TurboNinja. With the catalytic, should I soak the bolts and remove it to drive it around the neighborhood?
For the fuel pump, What type of tool would I need to acquire for this? I am very well versed in working on cars, but this one still is killing me here.
Is anyone close to me here in frigid Omaha?

[Brian R.]

The codes that come and go may be your fuel tank cap is leaking vapor intermittently. If it doesn't seal well, you will get a code. If the next time you get a better seal, the code will dissappear.

You have a typical Toyota OBDII connector. Save yourself some money and buy an OBDII code reader that has the Toyota adapter. The DTCs will still be in the ECM even though they are no longer active.

For the fuel pressure and flow rate measurement, refer to the Camry manual I cited previously (page EG2-227 onward).

[Mike Gerber]

"With the catalytic, should I soak the bolts and remove it to drive it around the neighborhood?"

With bolts that have been on that long and have gone through that many heating and cooling cycles, you would definitely have to. Rust will be a big problem.

Mike

[XavierAlexander]

Ple sase anybody, Where can I buy the interface cable. I have spent the past two days calling around to my reaources and they say I need to take it in to a shop. I am sure there is this cable somewhere. For the love of god...

Thanks guys,

Going Beserk in Omaha

[Brian R.]

http://search-desc.ebay.com/OBDII-sc...Z1QQsofocusZbs

[RIP]

94 -96 was a transition year for OBDII so it makes this a bit fuzzy. Not absolutely certain this will work but, they appear to have a decent return policy and it's cheaper. Best I can tell the IS0 9141 protocal is for Toyotas, which this has. The connector pictured at the bottom is a Toyota SAE J1962 interface connector. Does yours have the same shape and pin configuration?
http://www.autonostics.com/product.p...FSpUQgodF2VSWw