Emergency timing problem

[nova1313]

Okay so I took my car apart last week to do the timing belt. We finally got all the parts on but I can't tension it. I have the tensioner tool to adjust the auto tensioner but not the one for the pulley. I replaced the pulley but can't set it right.

Does anyone have an idea of how to do this without the proper tool? It's 50 bucks and I could buy it but I saw alot of people that didn't use it and I don't know how. I have the bolt on it torqued down to the right ammount but it is still not tensioned right. The auto tensioner is way out with a huge gap that is definately not in spec (it's like 3 times that of the drill bit).

I need the car back together by the weekend. IF you have idea's let me know else I'm going to go and buy that tool and have it shipped quickly.

I tried dremel bits in the holes and trying to turn them one way while I tightened the bolt but the clearance is horrible and I can barely get my torque wrench on the tensioner bolt. I kept bending the bits but it was the strongest thing I had...

Suggestions anyone pleasE?

[defiancy]

http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-engine.html

Refer to the Timing belt section.

[nova1313]

thats the faq I was using. When you get to step 35 it says use special tool to torque the tensioner pully. I don't have that special tool and it doesn't say how to make one on that site. But many people said you don't need it. How do you torque the pulley without it... I couldn't do it by hand. I tried drill bits in the holes with plyers. I tried having someone pry against the water pump and that didn't work either.

I also searched here and kevin mentioned prying so thats why i tried that but like I said it's still way out of spec as per that page. It doesn't pass the drill bit test at all.

[defiancy]

Originally Posted by nova1313

thats the faq I was using. When you get to step 35 it says use special tool to torque the tensioner pully. I don't have that special tool and it doesn't say how to make one on that site. But many people said you don't need it. How do you torque the pulley without it... I couldn't do it by hand. I tried drill bits in the holes with plyers. I tried having someone pry against the water pump and that didn't work either.

I also searched here and kevin mentioned prying so thats why i tried that but like I said it's still way out of spec as per that page. It doesn't pass the drill bit test at all.

It says Tensioner Tool on that page. That would be where the faq is to make the tensioner tool.

[nova1313]

thats only the tool for the auto tensioner to depress it. You also need a tool to go actually in the tensioner pulley so you can put tension on that when you tighten it so that the auto tensioner stays down.

I bought a wrench cut it's arm off, ground it down so it fit in the pulley. Measured where the two holes were drilled holes in the wrench and put drive pins in the head and a whole for a 1/4 socket. It looks almost exactly like the real tool and worked just fine. It was such a pain though. It's got to be next to impossible to tension the tensioner pulley without it.

The tensioner tool there is easy to make or cheap to buy.

There are some errors and omissions in that page too (like when to reinstall the auto tensioner back onto the car). I corrected them as I followed it. So I'll post a new version later.

Notes:
- the middle timing belt cover is a pain. I snapped mine. The stupid bolts for the motor mount are in such an inconvenient place.
- You need a really shallow torque wrench for this job. It's not something the beefy 1/2 inch craftsman can get in there and do.
- People at autozone don't know which belts they are giving you. They screwed up twice now on me. The first time before I had the car apart they weren't even close. Now they are closer but still too small so I have to go back and take the old accessory belts with me. Such a hassle.
- You may have to replace your oil pan gasket afterward if you support the engine's weight on wood/a jack as you work. Mine leaked when I let it down and it never did before. too much pressure on that gasket as you work.

[yokoh]

the method I use for the tensioner pulley is to put the socket and ratchet onto the bolt while its finger tight and use the socket as the fulcrum point for a 90* pick i got at sears (its the next to the last one in the linked pic)they are lifetime warranty too so if you over-tension it and snap the pick just take it back for new
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
goodluck

[nova1313]

Thanks for the advice. I got the tensioner set and car back together (we went and build the tool, I'll take pictures and post)

I got it together and started it and it ran at idle. When I revved the first time there was a rediculous belt squeek then after 2-3 mins of idle when I revved it went away. I havn't driven it yet that was all at idle. I'm going to try to start it tomorrow night and see if it's squeels again.

The whole process sucked. It took about 16 hours total spread over 2 weeks because of waiting for parts and building that stupid tension tool (the long screwdriver like one is easy to make)

I'm sure the next time I could do it in 3-4 hours tops but the first time god damn that sucked!

+1 new fender liner ftw!

[gthompson97]

If you spilled any liquids on the accessory belts, that will make them squeal like a motherfucker, or if they're too loose too.

[nova1313]

yeah I found out it was the alternator belt. That adjustment is a bitch to get to. It's just a poor design of the bracket..

But I turned the power steering pully with a socket and saw that belt was slipping. I guess it expanded after a while. I tightened it up and it's all good to go. I missed that car!

[ez1286]

A really easy, cheap and effective tool to tension the pulley is a pair of curved snap ring pliers.