A/C Heater Not Working. Could This be The Problem

[Homerjay123]

i had searched the forum and found a thread about taking the max fuse relay cover off and seeing if the evaporator was dirty . i was having a hard time working to get the thing off when i noticed these 2 cut tubes on the passenger side , right behind the freon.

Symptoms Im Having:

In the Summer:
Air Conditioner Blew Hot Air , thought nothing of it and just opened the windows

In The Winter:
Heater Blows Cold Air
Defroster Blows Cold Air ( Windows Get really fogged up and i have to open all windows for awhile to clear the windows)

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Homerjay123

i had searched the forum and found a thread about taking the max fuse relay cover off and seeing if the evaporator was dirty . i was having a hard time working to get the thing off when i noticed these 2 cut tubes on the passenger side , right behind the freon.

Symptoms Im Having:

In the Summer:
Air Conditioner Blew Hot Air , thought nothing of it and just opened the windows

In The Winter:
Heater Blows Cold Air
Defroster Blows Cold Air ( Windows Get really fogged up and i have to open all windows for awhile to clear the windows)

Somebody has done a little bypass sugary on it.

I would say the reason it was done is because the heater core is bad.
But you will have to hook it up to find out.
Also you may have a evaporator leak on the AC.
If you have to pull heater core it would be a good time to check the AC evaporator core to if you want both ac and heat to work.

[Homerjay123]

yea, seems like the heater core has gone bad... what is the easiest way to get to it and replace it? and is the a/c evap and heater core in the same area?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Homerjay123

yea, seems like the heater core has gone bad... what is the easiest way to get to it and replace it? and is the a/c evap and heater core in the same area?

They are usually not very far apart.
The easiest way to fix it is to take it to a good repair shop.
But proper testing to see what it really needs first.
What year is it? Automatic or manual control?

[Homerjay123]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

They are usually not very far apart.
The easiest way to fix it is to take it to a good repair shop.
But proper testing to see what it really needs first.
What year is it? Automatic or manual control?

yea , ive seen a diagram of them both , i wanted to know if i can get to it from the outside or inside of the car . its a 93' buick lesabre , Automatic . i dont want to hook up new tubing and find out that the heater core is leaking and have coolant on the floor

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Homerjay123

yea , ive seen a diagram of them both , i wanted to know if i can get to it from the outside or inside of the car . its a 93' buick lesabre , Automatic . i dont want to hook up new tubing and find out that the heater core is leaking and have coolant on the floor

A wise old bird always does some looking and testing things out before he jumps in it.
With automatic controls thee is also some diagnostic test you can run on it.
I think the AC core comes out from front and the heater core comes out from under dash.
And keep in mind the AC is R-12 freon unless it has been changed over.
Some good repair info would be wise to like a good service manual or a All Data sub.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by Homerjay123

yea , ive seen a diagram of them both , i wanted to know if i can get to it from the outside or inside of the car . its a 93' buick lesabre , Automatic . i dont want to hook up new tubing and find out that the heater core is leaking and have coolant on the floor

These show the location of the heater core in some year close to 93.




Access means removing the hush panel under the dash and the glovebox with its hinge. Someone had posted these pics of a car with whole dash out and I thought they are pricesless for showing someone how it comes apart. The programmer for the dual A\C sits on the corner of the plastic where the prongs stick out at 45 degrees. There's a small motor connector on top of the programmer, a metal link that snaps into the plastic connector and moves a vane inside the box at the bottom of the programmer, vacuum lines which might not have to be removed, and a large electrical connector.