1996 Sportage-temperature related idle problem

[sharptrack]

Please forgive me if I'm a little long winded as this is my first time on a forum and I anxious to remedy my problem quickly so I am including as much detail as I dare. We bought this vehicle, previously owned, approximately 7 months ago from a Kia dealer. During the test drive (car was quite cold), it tended to stutter when the accelerator was pushed hard. I dismissed it as a minor problem but did request the dealer replace the plugs, wires and perform a general tuneup before accepting the car.

All was fine with the car up until about 3 months ago. At first the problem was very occassional and only seemed to happen after being driven for some time and the engine compartment warmed up considerably (the seasons are reversed here in Australia so it was cold here, about 45 degrees or so). Again I dismissed the problem as something minor since everytime I investigated, it would not duplicate.

Now we are into full fledge meltdown. The best I can describe the problem is that as long as the engine compartment stays within a certain temperarture range, the car runs smooth and clean. If that temperature is too cold, when started, it has the hardest time idling and will sometimes backfire. You cannot put the transmission in "drive" as it will stall. During this time, the CEL may or may not be illuminated. The idle is rough but steady.

If the temperature gets too warm, the car will run normally for some period of time (5-30 minutes) and then when coming to a stop, the engine will stutter, the CEL will come on and the idle will drop by 100-200 RPM. From that point on it is hopeless, the only way to keep the car running is to maintain an idle over 1000 RPM (very touchy... if you go too far the engine will suddenly race). The CEL will eventually extinguish (1-2 minutes), but the engine will continue to run very rough.

I do not have access to an engine scan, so I do not have any codes to display. I'm hoping someone may have experienced these symptoms and can recommend a starting point. I am lost with all this new fangled electronic ignition and fuel injection. I'm an old salt with lots of experience with distibutors, point dwell and timing lights.

Thanks in advance!

[LMP]

One common problem with idle is the Idle AIr COntrol valve www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg
Remove and clean with fuel or carb cleaner. THIs solves a lot of similar incidents.
Another problem (with the DOHC mainly) is timing belt (is it SOHC or DOHC ?)...due for replacement after 70,000 miles, unless you want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. AL least, this is a non interference engine so no internal problem if that happens..but it might have jumped a cog or two and leave you with problems..usually this does not light up the CEL.
Third case are the ignition coil packs: these will give a CEL code...and it would be of great help that you have a scan.
ALso what you describe is symptomatic of poor EGR valve operation, poor purge solenoid operation www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/kiapurge.jpg so....a scan tool can be procured for about 100$ and this is a good investment.

[sharptrack]

Thank you for your reply. I have already investigated the IAC since it was mentioned very often in many posts. I fear you are correct about the scan. I am looking into locating a scanner locally but it is proving a little bit difficult. The local auto parts stores here in AU are not as diversified as in the States.

I will post my findings as soon as I have more info.

[sharptrack]

I am stymied... where is the OBD II connector on this car.

I did some research and bought a slick little adapter for my Palm TX from Auterra. Anyway, now that I have the ability to find out what is happening, I cannot find the OBD II connector. I unfortunately do not have access to a service manual and am finding mechanics in Australia are less than generous with information. The RTA apparently has very strict rules and regulations about servicing a vehicle for saftey reasons (Aussies are VERY big on saftey).

I have pulled all the panels that can be removed from under the dashboard on both sides, the ashtray and its associated panel, the kickplate covering the computer, and pullled up the carpet. No connector!!

Is it possible that if this car was built in Korea and imported or here is AU that it may not have an OBD II connector?

[LMP]

It is possible that it is located in middle of firewall in engine compartment. 95 obd1 was like that and it is possible that have kept the location for a little while, but '96 is claimed to be OBD2...

[sharptrack]

I think I have found it... it is mounted near the MAF sensor. It has a plastic cover with "diagnosis" stamped on top. My next problem is that the connector is not an OBD II type connector, so the tool I purchase is not plug & play. I am in contact with the manufacturer to see what can be done. Will keep the updates coming. I did take a couple of snapshots of the connector and its location if anyone is interested.

[LMP]

OK send them to me ( [email protected] ), I'll post them for you if you wish..and check this:
http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kia...Obd2_Codes.PDF

...mmm...like your signature..it makes balance...

[sharptrack]

LMP,

The information you provided matches exactly with what I have. Looks like I may have spent $$ for nothing at the moment. I have forwarded the pictures I took since it provides a slightly different perspective.

Do you know of any other sites that may provide more information about this type of system? It seems simple enough but I would like to understand exactly what the connector is capable of.

On a separate note, can you recommend a online store to purchase a service manual? I have found several but some look a bit shady. do you know if the CD's are really any good?

Yeah, those two words help keep me positive when the darkness starts closing in...

Thank you so much for all your help!

[Helixrider]

Just had the same problem with my daughters 2000, turned out to be a few things. 1. the connector at the IAC was corroded at the ground on the end of the connector. 2. the temperature sensor was giving a false reading when cold. simple replacement, plus I changed the thermostat to a 195 degree one while I was in there.. Replaced the spark plug wires also. Timing belt AND water pump changed at 60,000. car has 82K now.

there should be an adapter for the code reader. Snap-on tools has an adapter for their readers.

[LMP]

Shop manual for free here:
http://www.kiatechinfo.com/default.asp
you need to register (free) then pick the nfo you want
Here are your photos


WHere is that battery? on the left or on the right? ...I think these photos apply to right hand side steering ....

[sharptrack]

Thanks to all for the info.

Yes, the vehicle is right hand drive (Australia is like England, they drive on the left side of the road). The battery is located in the same spot as left hand drive only mirrored. The rest of the vehicle (except for steering mechanicals) appears to be the same.

I have tried the method to get the trouble codes described in the pdf you pointed me to (http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kia...Obd2_Codes.PDF) and now have an undriveable vehicle. It appears to have damaged something and I have this terrible missfire. I don't think my car matches with what ever car they used. The research I have been able to do so far indicates I may have shorted out the ignition coil for cylinders 2 & 3. It maybe as simple as pulling the plugs and cleaning them but I fear it will be worse (and expensive).

I still cannot find any more information about the "DLC". I would really like to find a pinout so that I can compare to the schematics. If it is OBD II compliant I may take the chance and create an adaptor for the scanner I purchased, even though the manufacturer specifically says not to. Its only money as they say.

Will post again after I finish taking half the engine apart to clean the spark plugs... Boy...how I do miss my MGB roadster.

[sharptrack]

Well after $1000 and some choice words for Kia, I have managed to get everything back in working order. The vehicle has actually been repaired for a couple of months but I have been travelling and just didn't have the time to update.

Summary... there were multiple failures associated with the idle problem. A total of three sensors were defective, the idle air control valve, the mass airflow sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. I had to take the vehicle in to the shop to resolve the problem after I replaced both spark coils, all spark plugs and wires, and drained half a quart of oil from the manifold (I thought people were joking!). As it turned out the information contained in the link http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kia...Obd2_Codes.PDF was incorrect for my vehicle and I had shorted out one of the coils . I tracked down a website with schematics and was able to diagnose what I had done. I still have some ambiguity concerning the DLC which prevents me from using my OBDII scanner but I don't think I will have the vehicle long enough to lose any more sleep over it.

Thanks to all who provided input and I hope that this information will help some one else in the future. The site I found with schematics and an online manual is http://www.kiatechinfo.com/default.asp. You need to signup for an account but it is free.