loud clicking noise while engine idling

[Tonglebeak]

First of all, let me state that I am a dumbass, as I did not have this problem until holding a 15 second e-brake burnout earlier, where smoke not only came out from the tires, but the engine compartment as well >_<

Car info is in my sig. I'm now noticing that when the engine is idling, I can hear a loud clicking noise coming from the engine itself, much louder than ever before. It's sounds as if this clicking is hitting the block. Anyways, the smell of burning rubber is _still_ under the hood, even after driving 12 miles at speeds over 60mph and letting the car sit for a couple of hours.

When I apply a very slight throttle, the car "jumps". The RPM will jump a bit, then fall back down, then jump up again. The tranny does not feel like it's shifting either, just the rpm going up and down, although not too much it is indeed noticeable.

Also, when I had first started the car up, I let it get warm, and did not notice any troubles as I was talking with my gf. However, as soon as I dropped it into reverse, the car felt as if it wanted to stall out, as in the rpm dropped very low, but it came back around. I noticed the jerky feeling quite a bit in reverse.

I went to the AZ troubleshooting guide, and it's pointing to oil problems. The oil in my car is 3100 miles old. It is dark, but it is not gunky. I added a quart a week ago. I was trying to hold off of changing the oil for just a bit longer until I scrap a few extra bucks to switch to synthetic.

I have 112957 miles, the oil 145 miles over the 3000 mark. When I did that burnout, I know my engine hit extremely high rpm, but cannot tell you how high as I never hooked up the tach yet in my new cluster. It never did shift into 2nd, which is why I backed off.

Does it sound like to you guys it's just a simple oil change needed, or is there a much deeper problem? I'd like to get input on this before I shell out money for synthetic oil if it isn't going to do me any good if something else is wrong. I'd rather put the money into the real problem

Thanks.

[xeroinfinity]

Its hard to say for sure, but if its a loud tap from inside the enigne...
You could have bent a pushrod, or broke a lifter, damanged a vavle.

Might get that oil changed asap and see if it doesnt clear up the noise.

With the Chuging when you went to REV, hum you could have a TCC going bad now.

Might also check for and DT codes and see if that helps.

Good Luck

[Tonglebeak]

The oil is changing right now, letting the final drips out (not using synthetic this time ).

One thing I would like to add, that I forgot about until now: my cruise control no longer works. The last time I used it successfully was about 300 miles ago, but it no longer works.

Another thing that's hit me: the lockup will NOT engage at speeds over 40mph. My fuel economy has been ridiculous this past tank as well, only 130 miles on half a tank, 8 gallons of gas. Where I usually get 20mpg, I'm only getting a bit over 15? When the lockup does engage at the lower speeds, it does so very hard, as in you can feel the whole car jerk.

I had the L/U replaced about 7 months ago by Aamco. If that's what it is, it should still be under warranty.

I would NOT be surprised if it was the TCC, I've had problems with that and the lockup solenoid in the past. I don't have a code scanner and I'm dead ass broke until Thursday. Hopefully this oil change works (and I'm not letting walmart do it this time, they love to put in the wrong kind of oil -_-)

Do you know where I can go to get codes off of an OBD1 system for free? AZ said they can't do it, that they only do OBD2 systems.

[Mrbizness1]

You can get the codes using a folded paper clip.
with the key in the on position, engine not running touch the last two contacts on the right side of the OBD 1 receptacle under the dash near the steering wheel. You will need to count the check engine light blinks to get the codes. Example the first code you will get should be 12, which means key on engine not running
One blink a quick time out then two blinks= 12 I believe the first code will repeat 2 times then the next code will start, until its finished then they will repeat again.
A helper to write down the codes will make it easier because they come out fast.

[Tonglebeak]

I tried the paper clip trick. All it did was turn the radiator fan on O_o. Are you sure those are supposed to be the right receptacles?

BTW, the oil change didn't help anything. New oil filter, air filter, and the correct grade of oil this time were of no help. I'm more and more believing it's a tranny problem, especially with that lockup failing to engage and my lack of cruise control.


EDIT: Geez, I wish I could change the topic title now. I hear the clicking noise when I'm in the cabin going over 30mph and no/very slight throttle. When it drops below 30, the clicking stops. It does indeed sound like it's coming from the engine compartment.

Also, my car stalled out on me while going in reverse. As soon as I dropped it out of reverse into drive, it stalled out. The car started right back up and ran better in drive, but I still have these symptoms.

I'm going to put my old cluster back in tonight after work so I can get the s/e/s light and try to get the codes, but I'm positive that the right two receptacles made the radiator fan turn on @_@

[Tonglebeak]

I put my old cluster back in so I could have a working ses light.

All I got was code 12s.

I'm going to try to find the TCC and unhook that and see how it runs. I stalled out in reverse last night, again, and this time it was a lot harder to start afterwards (I was on a hill, car pointed downhill).

[xeroinfinity]

If it runs better with the trans plug disconnected then its most likly your TCC is bad.

Good Luck

[Tonglebeak]

This is weird.

After I put my cluster back in, I did the diagnostics and crap. Well, I couldn't find where the TCC plug is (can anyone help me out here), so obviously I left it plugged in.

I drove with my old cluster in, and guess what: my cruise control works again, and my lockup is engaging when it should be.

Still, the problem persists. Where is the TCC at? It's almost now as if the clutch is slipping, and it keeps going back and forth, and I lose speed when it's going in that cycle, until I apply at least 1/4 throttle (yes, I can go from 30 down to <20 if I leave the throttle slightly applied, whereas if I don't use the throttle at all, I'll idle at around 30 and maintain that speed for the most part). But I can't tell if it's from 2nd-3rd or 3rd-lockup. I won't be able to tell until I can find where to unhook the TCC.


Also, I checked the tranny fluid. For the most part it's red like it should be, and I believe at the right level, but unless I'm mistaken, there's crap in it. Black crap that's scattered about (according to wiping off the dipstick).

[Tonglebeak]

My jaw just dropped.

It hit me, that I only apply a very slight throttle when I'm at a higher gear. I apply more throttle during take off, so...

I had my car parked, e-brake on, and dropped it into neutral. I applied a very slight throttle, and guess what:

the engine nearly stalls out. It cuts down to a very low rpm (I don't have a tach, but my ears aren't stupid :P) and nearly stalls. Afterwards, I applied WOT and hit the rev limiter a few times. I could not reproduce the slight throttle problem afterwards, for now.

Now it's looking more and more like a fuel delivery problem. What I don't understand is why no throttle is pushing out more RPM then a very slight throttle.

Any ideas on this? I've just eliminated the tranny as the culprit.

[xeroinfinity]

To answer your first question the TCC is inside the valve body on the driverside of the trany. The trans harness is on top of the trans, thats what you could have unpluged.

With the fuel,
its quiet possible thats could be your troubles.
If the fuel filter is clogged, at low throttle you can suck fuel, but under heavy throttle it stops he flow.
Try changing the fuel filter, they should be changed every 30-40k miles.

Hope that helps, let me know if it works out!

[Tonglebeak]

Fuel filter is something I had wanted to try a few thousand miles ago, but I could not get the thing off. I never changed one before, so the way it's mounted is really strange to me (it's an in-line filter near the fuel tank, left hand side by the rear wheel.) I bought the new filter from AZ a couple months ago, and all it's done was collect dust on my back seat (hopefully I can just blow the dust out and be ok).

Can you offer steps/tips on how to remove it? It's all quite a mystery to me, but I'm confident once I know what's I'm supposed to do, I'll be able to do this.

[xeroinfinity]

Here is a link that should help you out.
the zone

You'll have to scroll down to find your engine.

Hope that helps !

[Tonglebeak]

Yeah, I saw that before. Here's where I get lost:
Remove the filter bracket attaching screw(s) and filter bracket.

Grasp the filter and 1 fuel line fitting. Twist the quick-connect fitting 1/4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Repeat for the other fuel line fitting.

Use compressed air, blow out dirt from the quick-connect fittings at both ends of the fuel filter.

To disconnect the fuel line fittings, squeeze the plastic tabs on the male end of the connector and pull the fitting apart. Repeat for the other fitting

Remove the fuel filter.

What exactly is the filter bracket and its attaching screw? I can understand the fitting part I believe. Is it saying after cleaning crap off of it, to take the fitting out of the line itself, or out of the filter...I don't quite understand this. Can you provide a bit more insight?

Thanks.

[xeroinfinity]

Sorry about the confusion!

Thiers a metal piece wrapped around the filter that holds the filter to the car.
Loosen that first, then twist the plastic clips that are attached to the fuel lines.
I would move them back and forth as stated so no dirt gets into the fuel system.

[Tonglebeak]

I'm sorry, I just can't seem to get it. I've tried twisting the filter and nuts in every which way, but nothing will loosen or even budge. Also, I did not see a bracket anywhere. Here is a picture of the filter, maybe I not grasping the right thing or whatever, but this is a pain in the ass:



EDIT: My coworker took a look at the pic, and told me what I needed to do, which is what I have been doing. Oh well, I'll try again tomorrow, and I'll coat that SOB in WD-40.

After I strip the rest of my lug nuts because Firestone felt like putting on 2 ft/tons of torque on the nuts -_-