Well, it's my time to join the club...!

[Ed_Strong]

The P0171/P0174 Club, that is!
Yes, even tho my 2000 Winstar LX 3.8L only has 37,000K.mi on it, the CEL came ON while cranking today and it didn't go out while traveling to and from church (about 20mins each way).
On the way back I took it straight to Advance Auto Parts and got the codes read (of course, they adviced me to get the O2 sensors, which I kindly rejected).
So I already have all my www.leckemby.net and forum tips and pointers printed for reference and to refresh my mind till the time comes to get it done, hopefully soon, but must likely will have to wait till after the holidays. First I want to replace the Air and Fuel Filters to rule that out as the possible cause for the trouble codes, but I would like to get all the parts and supplies needed (or at least start shopping/pricing around) to do the "isolator bolt fix" ready for that day, but I'm having a little trouble.

What I want to ask is this...
How in the world do you guys get the parts (Isolator Bolts, Intake Ports, TB, and IAC Gaskets) to show up at the www.Y2Kford.com and www.teamfordparts.com sites? I search and I search and they don't turn up anywhere! The only part related to the isolator bolt fix I can get is the Upper Intake Plenum Gasket for $1.62, which I know is not needed but at that price it doesn't hurt to get. I get the same problem at www.rockauto.com, but I believe they're aftermarket suppliers, right?
So can any of you please help me get the best price on the parts needed?

[busboy4]

Hi

I bought two sets of parts from y2k for the isolator bolt fix. What you need to do is cut and paste the part numbers from the leckemby site to y2k's site and use the "search by part number (ford)" feature.

I only purchased the bolts and the intake gaskets as both vans had the newer valve cover, and both van's fuel pressure regulator line were in good shape. Shipping runs about $10 if you use ground and takes about 5-6 days to the midwest. I like the guys at y2k and would recommend them highly. However, in my case I waited 6 days for the parts to save about $12-$15 per vehicle over my local dealer price.

As to the job - it was pretty easy. The one van I have done has 143K. I don't know if the upper manifold had ever been pulled, but several EGR ports were clogged. I did pull the cowl first which made the job a lot easier. That step only adds a few minutes, especially if you use your drill driver to pull the the bolts (8-10 as I recall). Leckemby has a detailed description. I used 89 In-Lb for torque on the isolators which passes the "feels about right" test.

[parkerb]

i'm not exactly sure if this is related to the error code listed and the fix you all were talking, but i see there are a couple guys on ebay that sell a kit which includes new gaskets, valve cover, etc. Is this a viable option instead of collecting all the parts individually?

[lewisnc100]

Those ebay kits might be the same as the Dorman Kit, # 615-177 which includes everything for around $75 or so. I remember a previous post about the rubber deteriorating a few months after install but I don't remember any more followups on that kit.

This kit is sold at rockauto if you search for that part#. Here's a link to a pic: http://info.rockauto.com/RB/Detail2....615-177kit.jpg

[ed.b]

I just did the isolator bolt fix over Turkey Day weekend (it only took ~4 hours and I was taking my time) and got my parts (valve cover, bolts, and lower intake-to-plenum gaskets (6)) from Bill Jenkins at TeamFordParts.com. I paid for 2nd day shipping 'cause I ordered either the Saturday or Monday before Thanksgiving and he sent the parts Next Day at no charge to ensure that I got them in time. I'm not saying to expect that but I had expressed my concern to him via email and he stepped up on his own.

As for the FPR vacuum line, I didn't order that from Bill as I wasn't positive I would need it and my local dealer had them in stock so I figured I could always get it there if needed - I didn't need it so I'm glad I didn't order it online.

Let me know if you have any other questions. BTW, mine is a 2000 with 68k on it so you got me beat!

Ed B.

[busboy4]

Hi again

from what I have read and heard I would go Ford for the parts.

[fz1rider]

Well I guess I'll just chime in instead starting another thread...

I found this site a couple days ago and I must say you guys are lifesavers. I've been staring at the CEL for over a year and with the info I found here I did the repair today.

I've got a '99 LX 3.8 with 170,000 miles. I went with all OEM parts. It was a bit more expensive than what some have spent but the originals got me pretty far, so I'm hoping the replacements will do the same.

There was plenty of oil inside the plennum and four of those little holes at the mouth if the intake were completely clogged with gunk. Another thing I discovered while I was in there was that the rear bank of butterflies was half open and moved easily when pushed. What I discovered was the linkage arm from the air cutoff actuator (next to the alternator) was just laying on top of the engine. The tiny white retainer clip was gone and the linkage rod had fallen out. Don't know if anyone else has happened upon that but it's something to be aware of. I have no idea how long it's been like that but between that and the clogged holes, I'm surprised it was running as well as it was.

Took it for a short ride and so far no CEL, but if I get another one I know where to look.

[parkerb]

lewisnc100, that's the package i bought off ebay. silver colored valve cover and all. you're saying you've heard those gasket pieces to rot quickly? i have yet to install the kit, so now i'm apprehensive.

a guy on the v8sho list has a walk through on a for a pvc catch can though. maybe that's what i should try?

[pitteach]

I used the Dorman kit you are talking about when did the fix last April on my 2000. The kit is nice because everything is there and it is cheap. Within a month of installing the kit, I noticed that the replaced vacuum lines were cracking and deteriorating. The originals that I took off were in real good shape but I threw them out because I felt I wouldn't need them. To replace these with OEM, would be about $30. These are easy 1 minute fixes, but I am worried about the integrity of the port seals and gaskets- if they fail then I'm back to square one and out $100.
I posted my concerns in this forum a while ago and a Dorman rep contacted me about my concerns. He told me to get a hold of him and he would pay for any replacement OEM parts. I contacted him but never heard back! So much for that. I guess I should have known better-the parts are Chinese, and was very new to the market when I purchased it.
If I had (have) to do it again, I go with Ford parts purchased on line. Learn from my mistake and do the same. Good luck.

[Kashey]

I went to local Ford dealer and he had full package. They know about this problem. Cost me around 150$ CAN and few hours to do it myself.

[Ed_Strong]

UPDATE:
I did the Isolator Bolt fix last Tue and so far verything is working really Good (no CEL). I got the basic kit from Genuine Ford Parts (8-Iso Bolts, 6-plenum gaskets, 1-Upper Manifold Half gasket and a Blend Door Actuator for bout $110 shipped.)
Took me about 6hrs to gett'er done, but because I replaced the Spark Plugs while I was a it, and let me tell ya those boots wont come off. I seriously recommend a Spark Plug Wire boot remover tool~! I know im getting one for next time... my knuckles and fingers still hurt.
I also did the Valve Cover Baffle update my self with a pair of pliers, a dremel tool for cutting the metal and the small bolt locking washer and locking nut (hammered the threads on the bolt so it wont come off).
I suggest taking the cowl off first... it makes the job much less intimidating since you get a broader look at the whole engine and it makes for easy removal of the drain runoff pipe for better clearance.
I also used a 5/16 or 5/64 (can't remember) drill bit crancked by hand to clear the EGR passages and it worked really good. (note: use your fingers not a power drill on this one)
As you turn it by had it removes the gunk and pulls it outward not letting the crud work it self back in to the EGR passages. Just turn it slowly and gently as you could scrappe some metal off the rims and let it fall into the intake manifold...
Van runs great and feels more powerful at take off. And as stated before, no CEL.