95 Transport 3800- Help get us on the road

[BrokenWings]

I have a 95 Pontiac Transport 3800 engine.
It has been a long haul for my daughter and myself since my husband passed with cancer. Our only vehicle a 95 Transport seemed to run perfectly until my husband passed. My daughter is trying to get a college education and our funds are extremely limited.
At the present time, I have put on a new fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, oil filter and change, new coil, plug wires, plugs, new battery, new starter, new altenator, new compressor for AC, new brakes, new tires. I am sure there are a few other items I have forgotten.
The car will go for days starting just by turning the key - then all of a sudden it will crank and crank but never start. I can go back a day later and try to start it - and it will start with just the key. I believe from reading some of the posts that this is probably the crank position sensor.
Once on the road, when I accelerate, seems I can accelerate for about a count of 10 or 15 and the RPMs drop and the engine seems to vibrate. I can let off the gas - it stops and I can accelerate again - same thing - so to drive down the road at high speeds, I have to constantly put on the gas and let off the gas to prevent vibration. Thinking maybe this is the throttle position sensor or maybe pressure regulator?
I took this car in for required inspection in November - always before it passed with flying colors. This time - failed - can't get tags. Here are the results from Nov. 14
Hydrocarbons: Standard: 220.00 PPM Results: 269.75 PPM -FAILED
Carbon Monoxide: Standard: 1.20% Results: .80% - PASSED
Since then, put on new coil, new plug wires, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, oil filter and oil change.
Took it back through inspection Dec 8.
Hydrocarbons: Standard: 220.00 PPM Results: 535.25 PPM - FAILED
Carbon Monoxide: Standard: 1.20% Results: .80% - PASSED
As you can see, hydrocarbons worse now than in November. Any ideas on the hydrocarbons?
Another "little" issue. The cruise control, turn signals, dimmer switch for headlights are all on one little arm - which has a "triangle" metal piece that obviously fit in the steering column. The triangle piece broke - and I ended up with the arm in my hand. Now I am told that I will have to go to a junk yard to find that piece and that the driver side air bag will have to be removed to do this repair??
I also am having "intermittant"problems with the power windows - sometimes when they go down - I have difficulty getting them to close - as in they will only go back up a little at a time - but only after accelerating - not in idling position.
I know the perfect solution would be a new car - I would gladly settle for a decent used - used car, but currently that even is not an option for us.
I am going to try to gather funds for some more repairs on my buggy this next week. I only have a few more days until I have to park it for failing the tests. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. We are desperate.

[LMP]

"the RPMs drop and the engine seems to vibrate. I can let off the gas - it stops and I can accelerate again "
THis is most probably TOrque Converter Clutch gone haywire, a classic. THis is expensive replacement cause transmission has to be taken out. However, simple thing to do is disconnect TCC solenoid by taking one contact out of connector...you will not have TCC anymore...spoil about 2mpg ON THE HIGHWAY (no change in city driving) ..but no vibration.
I think you have changed A LOT of parts ..not sure why...was all of that ruined on a sudden?
No start indeed points to Crank Position Sensor. TO be sure, just have someone check for spark when it fails starting. However crank sensor has 2 parts..and you can have spark and no fuel injectors....
About hydrocarbons: the change is probably due to the great numbers of components you have replaced..changing operaiont conditions ..possibly higher fuel pressure than before ..and computer must adapt...(lessen injection duration) if it can: for this it needs a well functioning O2 sensor: this is probably what has failed....but other culprits can be: failed catalytic converter...or/and EGR valve....
DO y9u have the Check ENgine Light ON? Did you have code scan performed lately? (seems they do it for free at Autozone)

[BrokenWings]

Thank you so much for helping me. I knew I was forgetting some things - also in the past year I had three serpentine belts replaced. A little over a year ago, I had a new harmonic balancer installed.
The only thing that showed up on the scan was the crank sensor.
All of the things I mentioned replaced - have been over the past year. All of the parts were replaced because of the two major problems I have mentioned here...that being the car would not start and the vibration.
Each time, I would be so relieved thinking the expense is over for awhile - and then after a few trips, the car would not start again.
I found that by not attempting to start it for a day - or so - it would just start right up - that is without buying more parts.
I read on here about the crank sensor and thought that might be the problem - that part does show bad on the scan.
I decided since you seem to be so much more informed about this vehicle, I would post on here to see if I could get more information before I take it back to get more work done.
It ran for two days - I made a couple trips today to day my daughter to a rehearsal for a job she has for church orchestra so basically started it twice today okay - went back out and will not start again. I am guessing by tomorrow it will crank again.
Again - I do so appreciate you and your help. Thank-you.

[BrokenWings]

I also failed to answer your question on the check engine light. The service engine soon light comes on occasionally when I start the car. I can turn the car off and then start the car again and the light will be off. It does not come on while I am driving the car.

[knuckle ears]

Yes go to Autozone, as many have said, and get the codes.
After changing many parts to get it running, it would point you in the right direction.

Follow this link to Autozone for repair info: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801ef278.jsp

[BrokenWings]

Autozone tried to check it. They said something about a wire was pushed through or something and they could not get a reading. I took it to another place and the man used a Snap-On scanner and got the reading on the crank sensor.

[LMP]

I think on that issue the response is in line with the symptoms. Someone on this forum (or on Lumina Van forum) had it changed lately for $100 parts and labour.. I changed mine last summer..paid 45$ for the sensor...somewhat cubersome because need to remove crank balancer...If you have someone on hand, remove wire pin D tan/black from the transaxle connector: this will clear the TCC shudder (TCC will not apply any longer: this can generate an error code but is of no consequence..except the engine will run a little faster on the highway in 4th..you loose may be 2 MPG at ahighway speed).
www.avigex.ca/xport/transaxleconnector.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/tccloc.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/transaxle.jpg

[BrokenWings]

I am so impressed with the help and all the information you have given me.
Based on what I have learned here today - definitely going for the crank sensor replacement and an O2 sensor.
On my question about the broken arm that has the - control for cruise control, turn signals, dimmer switch - the triangle that connected it to the steering column broke - will that require the air bag to be removed to be replaced? Is this a part I can buy in parts store or will it have to come from a junk yard?

[canaris]

Did you try a full throttle pass somewhere wher it is safe? The reason I am saying this...when you apply full throttle most of the sensors are by passed...

Vibration can be caused by a host of things..that can be construed as a tranny problem...I learned my lesson the hard way..by having 4 different mechanics indetify my 'shudder' problem as transmission failure,only to find out that after I had the tranny rebuild..the 'shudder' was still there.

My problem was of course a 'cut' wire that feeds the 5 volts to the maf sensor..it never gave me a CEL ....after spending over 2000 dollars we found the problem..


On wide open throttle ...let it go through the gears and see if there is any hesitation or shudder as it is accellerating....your shudder should only come back when you let off the gas pedal and try to coast...

This test of course will only determine that it could be one of the sensors ...Maf...Cam...egr..and oxygen that on wide open throttle are for a moment bypassed by the engines ECM.

[BrokenWings]

There does not appear to be any slip in transmission when shifting into gears. Usually the "shudder" starts between 35 and 40 MPH and occurs when the RPMs are dropping. They drop without my letting off on the gas. When accelerating to change into gears - gear change is fine - it is just that with acceleration above the 35 MPH usually ...I can stay on the gas for about a count of 10 - 15 and then the "shudder" - ease off the gas - and put on the gas - no shudder again for about a count of 10 -15. I have no problem getting up to 70 miles per hour - it is just about every 10-15 count the RPMs drop and the shudder starts- I have to ease off the gas to stop the shudder and then I can increase acceleration. It is just the RPMs drop without de-acceleration. At time they are dropping - shudder starts.

[LMP]

Canaris is right about a lot of things turning out similar symptoms: (Canaris patience with diagnosing his problem was a feat: I have kept this reference in my bookmarks...) I myself had a MAF (Mass Air FLow sensor) problem..in my case it was dirty and would not yield decent acceleration...but pumping the throttle would "excite" TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and add fuel flow.... What I suggest with removing the TCC (Torque COnverter CLutch) wire from the plug is that this is a no cost non intrusive test...and it will immediately tell if this is a TCC shud..dd..dd..dd.dder problem: the shudder disappears: stay put...and if you accept 2mpg loss, disregard funnelling money into the transmission; Shudder continues: put the wire back in and pass to other options.
WHat you describe is consistent with TCC problem though it seems to start happening a little bit slow speed...releasing and pressing throttle does deactivate TCC....and when it tries to reengage at steady speed, which lowers engine RPM, that is the time when shudder can happen.....anyway....keep telling what happens.

[BrokenWings]

I think I have someone lined up to work on my car again this next week or end of week. I am going to print out all the information you are passing on to me so I can be sure that the "no cost" methods are tried first.
I am still wondering about how to do the repair on the headlight dimmer - that was another reason for fail on my test.
It just broke off while I was dimming the headlights - at least it broke while the lights are in the dim position.
I have been told on that I have to get the part from a junk yard and will have to have the air bag pulled before it can be replaced. The wires are still attached to the arm - I just have it laying up over the steering wheel adjustment arm.
I can manage to do turn signals by pressing on the connection from which the signal arm broke - but not figured how to dim or brighten headlights - so it is going to have to be replaced in order to get high beam - low beam inspection passed.
I know I have so many questions - and I do appreciate all your help here. All the parts already replaced have really drained us. We were just at a dead end on all this until all of you pitched in to give me such great advice. By the way, as I mentioned the car would not start again yesterday for a trip to the grocery store. Today, my daughter had a paying gig at a local church for a Christmas orchestra event. Went out this morning, and the car cranked right up with just turning the key. I am waiting for her to call for me to pick her up and saying some prayers that it will crank again...but once it does this thing it does - I get a day or so usually before the no start again - thinking back - we are sure now that the crank sensor is going to solve that.
Any help on the headlight would be great.

[LMP]

Well the dimmer switch itself is in fact low on the steering column, under dashboard lower cover. It is linked by a rod to the lever up on the column.

www.avigex.ca/xport/dimmerswitch1.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/dimmerswitch2.jpg
Now these are from the '93 model without the airbag...so for the top end more details would be needed from owners of more recent models.

[BrokenWings]

I ventured out onto the interstate loop around Memphis - took your advice - did the full throttle as in a passing acceleration all the way to the floor. Amazingly enough - NO SHUDDER. It only started the shuddering as I reduced acceleration.

[LMP]

OK as Canaris suggsted, this reveals that you have no firing or injection problem and in fact no slip on the various clutches that pertain to the gear ratios. We are left in all evidence with the TCC....you are one wire away from making the final test to prove or bust.