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#1
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is what this car has me doin. So I am just gonna say I am getting NO spark out of a Brand NEW Ignition system.... I say system by means of I have changed everything that causes or makes spark...Could someone please help me? I have 15 years of Experience, and I have....too much time invested and that may not be much but to me it is. I have a "few" dollars invested. So if anyone could help just by sharing and pickin brains maybe come up with some ideas I haven't thought of.
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#2
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#3
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Everything, i.e...Coil pack, Cam Switch, Crank Switch, Ignitor box, Plugs, Wires...Everything, have also changed the "brain"
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#4
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Do you live by a library? They should have a service manual on your car which would help you to trace down the problem. You've replaced all of the major parts, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they're not bad out of the box. The service manual will trace everything down step by step for you, and then you won't have to bang your head against the wall
About the only thing that you haven't checked is the wiring harnesses. If you had an open circuit on one of the wires that would cause your problem.
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#5
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This started out as a simple tune-up and Valve cover gasket change...All the wires are connected...and there is nothing pinched...Could someone tell me if a Factory Alarm installed by a dealer would have some sort of "kill" switch?
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#6
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#7
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BTW check to see if your LED is flashing in the dash. It may be trying to tell you something.
The following checks can be made without WDS: The engine does not start and LED remains off. 1. Check PATS system fuses 2. If alarm is fitted check if LED functions for alarm: if not check cigar lighter fuse (also used for LED) 3. If not go to Ford dealer. Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly. Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence) Check the following codes: Code flashes: 1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer 1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer 1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master key. 1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV. Go to Ford dealer. If the LED illuminates for 4 seconds but the engine does not crank, PATS is working correctly and there is a fault elsewhere. Try starter solenoid or battery. If okay go to Ford dealer. If the LED illuminates for 4 seconds and the engine cranks but does not start, PATS is working correctly and the fault lies elsewhere. Check the Fuel Cut-Off switch. If okay go to Ford dealer. If none of the above checks resolves the problem then the system will need to be connected to WDS at a Ford dealer for a diagnostic check. If the engine starts normally but the LED stays on, wait for one minute. The LED may then flash a code 2:1. This is showing a ‘fault’ that there are less than 3 keys programmed into PATS. One of more keys need to be programmed to stop this code. Any other code needs referring to the Ford dealer. |
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#8
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yes i have cranking, the transponder is aparent on the key my Grand Prix and GMC Truck has one...there however, isn't one on the key of my Taurus...
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#9
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Secondly you wouldn't have been able to drive the car home without the new keys. Verify that it was a FORD alarm system that was installed, and not an aftermarket system. Dealerships install BOTH kinds, and customers rarely know which one it is. Find out where the alarm brain is and verify what is installed in your car. If it's PATS then you must have the correct keys (unless you're using replacement keys). If it's an aftermarket system then you won't need special keys. If it is a PATS system then you would have to be using the special keys, even though they may not look special, but that doesn't mean that the ignition antenna for the system is working correctly. There is also the possibility that you have the PATS system but some of the ignition parts that you used are not the correct ones to work with PATS, and so it doesn't recognise them. You'll need to first verify what alarm was installed (make/model) and trace it down from there.
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#10
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Re: 1994 Taurus SHO
I don't think the 1994 SHO has the PATS system or a varient of PATS. My 1993 SHO did not have PATS, and I don't recall anyone on SHOTimes forum discussing PATS for the Gen 2 SHO.
How did you determine there is no spark? Did you actually use a spark tester, or just assume there's no spark since the engine doesn't start? Did you make sure to plug the MAF sensor and IAC servo connectors back in? Have you checked the spark trigger into the ignition module? Have you double-checked all the connections? I assume you started out with the plug and valve cover change, got it all back together, then realized the car wouldn't start. Did you make sure to get the ground wire reconnected to the rear upper intake bracket bolt? If you attempt to pull codes from the PCM, what response do you get (flashing CEL, no CEL, code 12)? Do you have an oscilloscope or multimeter that you can use to check the signal from the crankshaft position sensor? While cranking the engine, what battery voltage do you read? -Rod |
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#11
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If it's an aftermarket system then it's not the problem because they wouldn't allow you to crank the engine when they went bad. Another big clue that it's not a factory system is if the key is all metal.
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#12
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I have done the "typical" tests for spark pullin a plug and turning the motor over. I have also ran a test light to all the components and have power to and from them,
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#13
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I have to go to the library today or tomorrow. I will see if they have anything regarding this on a 94 Taurus. They won't allow people to take the reference books out, but I can try to study them for you. Which engine do you have?
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#14
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I have the 3.2, but they say that it has the 3.0 ignition system...which makes NO sense at all to me...
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#15
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Alright if i changed the brain and the car I took it out of didn't have the alarm or the PATS for that matter could that be where the problem is?
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