oil change gone bad

[buddy1]

i just changed oil in my 95.5 rodeo. the service records show it has always had kendall gt1 in it about every 3000 miles. i put valvoline high mile oil in since i have 181000 miles. 10-40 wt which was already in it. got about 300 mi on the change and now i hear lifter noiseat idle,at 1000 rpms you dont hear it. i dont know why. i read somewhere not to use fram filters after i put a fram high mile filter on. my timing belt,tenisionor,water pump has about 55000miles on them. i called a place in oregon about lifters he said that oil i put in it ruined the lifter o rings. a shop that repairs cylinders only told me the store was lying to me,and that the lifters do not have o ring there close tolerance metal to metal like ford and chevy lifters. i wanted to know if someone who changed these lifters have taken them apart and know for sure. also my oil pressure is always good.

[surferfletch]

Go back to what worked before would be my suggestion. You haven't done any harm. Did you just buy it? If so,check your oil level frequently to find how much it consumes. These trucks don't like low or dirty oil. You'll probably get another 50K out of the belt and tensioner.

[Ramblin Fever]

You don't have a thing to worry about - 10w-40 won't hurt that engine at all.

However, if you're night time temp drops below +10F, you may be better off running a 10w-30 for winter. Thicker oil in of itself can cause lifters to tick on a cold morning.

This engine specs 10w-30 down to -13F, unless cold weather starting issues are a problem. For weather above 0F, you can run 10w-40, and if you're above 15F, you can run 15w-40, or even 20w-50.

Your ticking IS probably caused from the fram filter, these engines are filter picky for sure and fram is it's worst enemy - next time try a Napa Gold, Motorcraft, or Isuzu oem filter.

FWIW - I too am using Valvoline Maxlife HM oil in my 3.2L, I currently have a mix of 3.5 qts 5w-30 and 2 qts 10w-40 for winter usage. Last summer I used 10w-30 with a Napa Gold filter.

I currently have 164k miles.

Another option you can try is Rotella synthetic 5w-40 for gasoline/diesel engines, you can run it year round, and it has heavy additives this engine seems to like.

[buddy1]

what causes the fram filter to do that. the lifter parts place said the lifters have o rings and the valvoline hm oil additives expands seals an o rings causing the o ring to pop out of the lifter,probally just wants to sell me new lifters. for years i have been told lifters dont go bad they just get pluged up and stick.well tommarrow im going to change the filter i hope it helps. if not im going to buy some marvel mystery oil or something else run it for about 2000 miles and change oil to a 5-30 or 10-30. weather here gets to 27 deg in winter somethings, and 100 deg in summer,im in nor cal. is ther any way to make sure the noise isnt the injectors i doubt it. thanks for your help.

[Gizmo42]

The lifter parts place is full of crap and just wants to get your money. Its common for hydraulic lash adjusters to tick, though some ppl are lucky and manage to keep theirs quiet. My mitsubishi had the same type and it ticked from the day I bought it till the day I sold it 15 yrs later. If it got really loud and didnt quiet down after a minute or so of running I knew I was 1 qt low on oil. Normally what makes them tick more is either low oil pressure, plugged/restricted oil hole, or varnish.

[Ramblin Fever]

Actually, got to be honest with you, I've only heard a small FEW that didn't tick; i.e. what I'm saying, is the Isuzu engine, the whole line of Isuzu engine's in fact, tick.

They in general are just a noisey engine. It's more of a nuisance really, as long as you change the oil every 3k, keep her topped up, that ticking noise is harmless.

Some tick louder then others, you can try and replace your lifters, but the noise WILL come back - some oil/filter combinations quiet it better then others.

Personally, I use to be an avid Havoline user, switched to Valvoline maxlife HM at 155K and I'm loving it - I personally have not had any issues with it.

Fram filters in general just are not of very good quality.

IMHO - stay as far away from that shop as possible; that Valvoline HM oil didn't hurt your engine one bit. I would, however, at 180k miles stay away from synthetic oil; but your truck should run fine on ANY oil as long as you stay with 5w-30 viscosity and up.

In your neck of the woods, I would use Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 year-round with a Napa filter; if you find it uses oil, more then 1 qt/3k miles, switch to 10w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter.

Sometimes the ticking can also be louder if the viscosity is too thick, and/or too thin; i.e. 10w-30 is my happy medium - the tick in my truck is a very quiet one, but does tend to be louder with a 5w-30 oil.

Tick can also get louder as a sign of oil getting too dirty; oil level getting low; some owners say their tick gets louder as a sign in remembering to change the oil.

Isuzu's just tick - period; nature of the beast. BUT, do remember to check that oil level AT LEAST once a week, some Isuzu's tend to use more oil then others.

FWIW - you already changed your oil, it should be fairly clean, throw on a Napa filter if you choose to (do it while the engine's cold, so you don't loose too much oil); the crankcase takes 5 qts w/o filter; and 5.7 qts w/filter, incase you didn't have the manual.

After you do that, make sure your EGR valve is clean, slap on a new PCV valve (dealer item preferred about $9 or so); change air & fuel filter if you haven't already. Also, check the spark plugs; ALL of these items can make it tick worse.

The best thing you can do with that truck, do a few 2k mile oil changes, dumping the oil AFTER it's good and hot to see if any crud's built up in the lifters (yes, this is possible), and this engine loves to be driven, get that rig up on the highway for at least a good 1-2hr drive few times a month.

[38ffems]

You are definately right about the tick letting you know its time to change the oil. I almost always use that as a gauge because sometimes depending on how i am driving it wants to be changed earlier or sometimes later. I personally use synthetic and have found that the engine seems to run a little better. I am going to be cleaning my EGR this weekend and can't wait to see the difference that will make.

[buddy1]

i changed the filter to a napa gold, but no dice sounds the same kinda like a diesel maybe my timing belt is goingbad who knows. it just sucks when it runs quiet one day and then you get noise the next day. but i guess it was my turn now i get to experence what every body else had to. so thats about all i know. ill just drive it until it dies. thanks for the imput.

[Ramblin Fever]

Well, if it turned noisey IMMEDIATELY following an oil/filter change - then I agree with Surferfletch, go back to exactly the combination it had before.

I missed your whole first post when you said it got noisey after switching it's choice of previous oil/filter.

Generally, you should get at minimum 90-100k on a timing belt set; as long as the timing belt tensioner was changed as well.

Isuzu's are quoted for sounding like diesels.

[Cat Fuzz]

If it's not ticking, it's not running.

[buddy1]

+i cant get that oil where im at you have to go down south to the bigger cities the oil was already in it when i bought it it happend to have all the receipts in glove box. im gonna go ahead and run this oil until its time to change it maybe ill try castrol 10-30 next time. if your able to get kendall oil where your at it might quiet yours down mine had kendall gt1 with a wix filter. good luck!

[Ramblin Fever]

I'm sticking with the Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30/Napa Gold - best combo I've ever had.

Valvoline's been known - for whatever reason - to quiet this particular engine.

[Gizmo42]

I've always prefered Valvoline and used it all my life in everything I owned. Until I got tired of doing oil changes in the parking lot in snow and cold that is. Now grease monkey does it (I actaully found a decent one) and they use Exxon. I pay the extra and have them put Mobile 1 in my rodeo though.

[Ramblin Fever]

I only wish I could run Delo 15w-40 in ALL my engines - run it in my diesel, and I believe it's the best oil out there.

I'm still a big Havoline fan; only Valvoline product I like is the Maxlife - even then, it took my sister and her sister/brother-in-law's a while to convince me to try it in the Rodeo.

Only reason I switched from Havoline, is the Rodeo started sounding like a wicked sewing machine there for a few thousand miles - sometimes I wonder though, if that was because the timing belt was getting loose.

In our new Yota, there's Pennzoil in it now (from the dealer), but we're gonna run GC Syntec 0w-30 in it for the life of it.

I use to run regular Valvoline in a Kia Sportage that we had for a while, before we got our 2nd Rodeo (current one) that truck used 1qt/1k miles, and we bought that truck with only 25 miles on the clock - quickly got rid of it at about 12k miles, transmission had gone out twice and it was too small.

It's not that I don't like regular Valvoline, I just believe it's priced a bit high, and it tends to burn off quicker then other oils I've used. So far, the Rodeo hasn't burned a drop of the Maxlife, but then again, neither one of my Rodeo's ever really used any oil.

[buddy1]

well im just wondering if maybe they put some kind of additive with the old oil that made it quiet, and the maxilife just cleaned it up. i dont know but was told today that the kendall oil was a parifin base oil and some time they tend to hide alot of noises,personally i was always raised not to run parifin oils in my rigs,i always ran either valvoline or castrol oil they have always been good to me. this was the first time i ever had a problem and evedently my problem normal just havent had the rodeo long enough to now. but im learning to turn the radio up!