Difficulty level for front bearing replacement?? '95 Transport 3.8L

[yellowfiero]

I've changed brakes, outer tie rod ends and even a ball joint, first time for the bearing though.. Off to autozone for the hub puller thingie. Any thoughts?

I've noticed the 'drone' or howl sound from the front left at ~40mph (loudest). That to me sounds like the bearing... It is present while in gear or out, at any RPM. Turning doesn't seem to have an effect on the sound, but it isn't really loud yet.

[LMP]

Relatively easy. Need allen key to remove caliper, Torx 55 for three hub bolts, and 1 5/16" socket for shaft nut. YOU need remove nothing else.
TO dislodge shaft from hub, last time I tried a rented puller....was too thick so I used usual method: leave shaft nut flush with shaft end, then hammer (heavy) using the 1 5/16 socket ....it dislodges rather easily .
ALl comes out readily: the ABS sensor will probably separate and stay in the hole...just grip it and pull.CLean hole then reinsert new hub over shaft.
After market hubs are 170$ (Cdn) here.

[yellowfiero]

Thanks LMP. Question about jacking the car up. I'll place the frame on a jack stand, as usual. Do I need to slightly jack up the control arm to take some tension off the suspension while its hanging, or do I just let it hang when I get the bearing off? Just wondering.

[LMP]

NEgative. Removing the bearing has nothing to do with the suspension. None of the suspension components has to be dismantled...so the spring extends to the end of its play and that's all, just like changing a tire by raising the frame.

[yellowfiero]

Originally Posted by LMP

NEgative. Removing the bearing has nothing to do with the suspension. None of the suspension components has to be dismantled...so the spring extends to the end of its play and that's all, just like changing a tire by raising the frame.

Thanks LMP. I just got finished doing it and took it for a test drive. Sounds great now!

Only thing that threw me for a loop was after I removed the bearing assy., I couldn't figure out how to get the seal part that was still in the hole. I saw the ABS connector attached to it and didn't understand that it was press fit into the hole when it was first assembled. I ended up putting a screw driver on the back side and tapping it out and it eventually came out. Then the new whole assembly went in without a hitch. I reattached the abs connector, and re-assembled. I forgot to put the little bracket back on that holds the abs connector, so I had to back out the two torx screws and put it back in... Otherwise no biggie. Thanks again for your help!

[nicke66]

Originally Posted by LMP

TO dislodge shaft from hub, last time I tried a rented puller....was too thick so I used usual method: leave shaft nut flush with shaft end, then hammer (heavy) using the 1 5/16 socket ....it dislodges rather easily.

Hi,
I am half way changing the left front bearing unit, but I can´t get it of the shaft. I am using a rather big puller, and I have also tried the heavy hammer method, but the unit is stucked to the shaft. Is there any type of Loctite "glue" on the shaft from the factory?

Anything to try, beside using a bigger puller?

[LMP]

..mmm...a bigger hammer... I want to point out that to remove stress on components with the "hammer" method, I reinstall the wheel with all five nuts tight and down the car on it weight on the tire...so the mass of the car adds as a lot of momentum to the hub to keep it steady and this helps direct the energy to move the shaft only...maybe you have done that already, but...just in case....
Nicklas...check Bajotaz"s thread 10threads down...fellow from Timrå Sweden..almost next door to you....

[yellowfiero]

Originally Posted by nicke66

Hi,
I am half way changing the left front bearing unit, but I can´t get it of the shaft. I am using a rather big puller, and I have also tried the heavy hammer method, but the unit is stucked to the shaft. Is there any type of Loctite "glue" on the shaft from the factory?

Anything to try, beside using a bigger puller?

Spray the spline with PB Blaster and let it soak for a while. Then, with the nut on the end of the threaded shaft, start pounding. You don't want to mess the threads up.

[nicke66]

Well, I have tried everything without any luck. I did spray the splines with a LOT of Loctite, Freeze and release (8040?), I did reinstall the wheel and did use my father´s bigger hammer, with no luck. I then loaded the shaft with my puller, and used about 750 Nm to tighten it. (3/4"x1/16", I don´t know what load this makes, at least several tons). Finally the puller did brake apart!

I know see two alternatives:

Build a better puller, fix it to the bearing unit with the wheel nuts, and use a 1" or bigger threaded shaft in the center to aply load.

Take everything apart from the car and take it to the workshop at my work. There are all the tools you can wish. How do I unscrew the drive shaft from the transmission?

I am working outside and I am afraid of the winter knocking on the door. So far no snow and several degrees obove freezing point daytime in Sweden. The weather is realy crazy nowdays.

[LMP]

..the first time I changed one on the left side, after initial resistance, I left the center nut loose then drove the car for a while...hoping that after a few days torquing the splines they would get loose. I would use the 1" 5/16 long socket from time to time and hammer the unto the loose nut to dislodge the shaft...and after a while it went. Was it due to rolling the car of just the additional blows I can't say..anyway I remember the first time indeed it took some time....and that was not the original cause it had been replaced by GM under warrantee several years before. However, last time , I changed the original on the right side..so 13 years in place...and was really easy to dislodge with the "box" and hammer.
..about your plan B....the shaft just pulls out of the transmission...

[nicke66]

Originally Posted by LMP

..the first time I changed one on the left side, after initial resistance, I left the center nut loose then drove the car for a while...hoping that after a few days torquing the splines they would get loose. I would use the 1" 5/16 long socket from time to time and hammer the unto the loose nut to dislodge the shaft...and after a while it went.

It has been in my mind. I have had to use this method to get the winter wheels off the hubs of my Audi sometimes.

Is there any risk to damage anyting by driving the car without the nut tightend? You are not allowed to do this on an older Audi, because the inner raceway is made out of two parts, that has to be tight together. I guess, as the Trans Sport have bearing units, the nut does not have to be tightend. Any risk to damage the CV joint or the drive shaft?

[LMP]

INdeed the bearing is one piece and there is no way the shaft would slide inwards by itself..and anyway it would be not longer that the distance the nut is loosened. I see no potential for harm to anything.

[nicke66]

Originally Posted by LMP

INdeed the bearing is one piece and there is no way the shaft would slide inwards by itself..and anyway it would be not longer that the distance the nut is loosened. I see no potential for harm to anything.

This weekend I succeded in getting the hub off the shaft. I did used the puller to put maximal load to the shaft and then I used the hammer at the back of the puller.

With the new bearing unit, I still have the howling sound from the front of the car! It seeams to decrese when I turn left (indicating the left (front) bearing, but this is new!). I have never been wrong about a wheel bearing before! I have checked the left rear bearing, and it seems to be allright. Could it be the right front bearing? Could it be the new (aftermarket) bearing unit beeing bad? The new bearing did seemed to be tight and a little hard to rotate. Could it be something else? Transmission?

[LMP]

I faced a similar problem last time: changed right front bearing..that was definitely shot...had checked for howl on the jack before changing it....and once replaced.....tried not to believe what I heard...still had a buzz, and indeed was not sure where it was coming from. Raised the rear wheels...and the left rear was shot too....but was masked by the front until replacement....and....had more problem getting it out of socked than the front...and curiously, it comes more expensive than the front...but ended replacing it with a salvage.
(had done a long trek in 4 days...and seemingly, these bearings just could not stand it: the rear ABS pickup was destroyed : the parts had separated and fallen ..Still have top check the right rear, probably the pickup is also destroyed..explaining why I still have the ABS light ON).
ANd yes, my new front bearing was indeed little hard to rotate..so this seems normal.

Well...to be sure for th efront bearings, raise front wheels on at a time, apply hand brake and drive the at half speed (50km/h indicated with one wheel blocked is 100km/h on the spinning wheel...do not brake hard when stopping..let it stop on its own.

[nicke66]

Originally Posted by LMP

Well...to be sure for th efront bearings, raise front wheels on at a time, apply hand brake and drive the at half speed (50km/h indicated with one wheel blocked is 100km/h on the spinning wheel...do not brake hard when stopping..let it stop on its own.

I will try that, but it sounds a little dangerous. Is the speedo picking up the speed before the differencial? Reading the sum of the speed for the left and the right wheel? At my Audi, the speed sensor (not really a sensor, until 1988 it was a cable to the speedometer!) is located at the left drive shaft.